Echo timberwolf cs-590 fuel leaks out of compression switch

[Sidecarflip]

Good question as the warranty on Echo saws not used in a commercial application is 5 years...

 

[pjl123]

It is either #1 still flooded or #2 burned up.

To verify or eliminate #2 remove the muffler and post photos of the piston and ring(s) as seen through the exhaust port.

BTW, if this is a new saw why isn't this a warranty issue?

Thanks, Steve.

And great question. I inherited this saw; it was my brother’s before he passed late last year. I have no clue when he bought it, if he already registered it, where a receipt may be, or …

I’ll take some pics of the exhaust port and rings in a few days. Thanks again.

Pete

 

[Sidecarflip]

I will say that my Timberwolf, if it sits for a while can be hard to start and why I'll roll it over a couple times with the ignition off and then advance the piston to TDC and start it. Kind of wish it had the Echo I30 rewind on it sometimes.

 

[pjl123]

So how do I find TDC on the piston with a pull rope starter? I’m guessing it’s when resistance on the rope is highest, and not entirely sure what to do from there.

Thoughts?

I will say that my Timberwolf, if it sits for a while can be hard to start and why I'll roll it over a couple times with the ignition off and then advance the piston to TDC and start it. Kind of wish it had the Echo I30 rewind on it sometimes.

 

[Sidecarflip]

Answered your own question, when resistance is felt in the starter rope.

 

[pjl123]

Welp.

I tried the TDC pull approach—no luck. A cylinder compression tester that I ordered came in today, so I hooked it up and it measured 95 psi max compression. I’m reading that minimum on this should be 110 psi.

Bottom line: I’m going to see if this could be a warranty claim. A saw that’s been run twice for a total of maybe one hour shouldn’t have compression issues.

 

[SteveSr]

Welp.

I tried the TDC pull approach—no luck. A cylinder compression tester that I ordered came in today, so I hooked it up and it measured 95 psi max compression. I’m reading that minimum on this should be 110 psi.

Bottom line: I’m going to see if this could be a warranty claim. A saw that’s been run twice for a total of maybe one hour shouldn’t have compression issues.

What kind of compression tester is it? Is it specifically designed for small engines? does it have a Schrader valve in the tip?

 

[Sidecarflip]

No matter what dealer you take it to, they will run the serial number and see if the 5 year consumer warranty has run out. Sounds to me like at least the cylinder is scored and probably the piston is as well as the ring, probably from a cold start and no warm up or putting either in it to attempt to start it. Either in a 2 stroke is a big and total No, even if the either contains some lubricant. Either is a great solvent, even better than Carbon Tet and even with the correct mix ratio or Syn Gas like I use, it washes the lubricant off the cylinder walls and piston skirt immediately, where as a 4 stroke relies on pressure lubrication that is immediately available when you engage the starter motor, chainsaws and small 2 stroke engines don't have that advantage so any solvent sprayed into the intake causes immediate lubricant wash off.. You don't know when it was purchase (you have stated that) so the dealer will run the serial and determine that and remember all dealers aren't the same. Some are nothing more than retailers and their service after the sale, warranty or not will be questionable at best, while other dealers have qualified technicians that can repair the saw properly (if it is under warranty that is. I just happen to work on my dealer's saws (in my shop of course), I also get to 'fix' Kubota's screw ups when it comes to mis aligned joints on new equipment like backhoes for instance because I own the machine tools and a line boring machine to correct production mistakes that Kubota does once in a while because good labor with a can do attitude is hard to find today, even in Georgia where Kubota has their final assembly and builds their attachments. Lately however, it's gotten better since Kubota purchased Great Plains Manufacturing (Land Pride). Most all their employees are long timers and know what they are doing. so screw ups have become much less. I can actually line bore mis aligned pin joints and repair them and their customers have no clue as to what I did. Kubota Orange paint cover a multitude of screw ups, so I get new tractors delivered here and then I get to fix them and of course I either get paid shop rate or I get a huge discount on filters and such and if I need their services, like valve adjustments or something I cannot do myself easily, I get free pickup and delivery as well and my consumable parts (filters and things) get delivered to the house. I have a good relationship with my Kubota dealer to say the least.

 

[Gord404]

pull the muffler and take a look

 

[Sidecarflip]

pull the muffler and take a look

If you read the entire thread, I believe he did that long ago.

 

[pjl123]

My chainsaw runs again!

I took it to the local Echo dealer and told him what was going on and what I had tried to fix it. I also mentioned the compression reading (95 psi). He took the saw, used a screw driver to pull out the decompression switch, and it cranked right up with two drop pulls! I’ve spent hours on trying to get this thing running again, and I’m both embarrassed and happy it cranked right up.

In any case, I’m thinking the decompression switch was the culprit and even when I pulled it shut by hand, the valve inside didn’t fully close. That would explain why it cranked up so easily today and why it had low compression readings earlier.

To be sure, Madison Lawn Care in Madison, AL has a new customer for life. Highly recommend them.

Separately, where can I buy a plug for this silly decompression switch?!?

Thanks, all.

 

[user 172763]

My chainsaw runs again!

I took it to the local Echo dealer and told him what was going on and what I had tried to fix it. I also mentioned the compression reading (95 psi). He took the saw, used a screw driver to pull out the decompression switch, and it cranked right up with two drop pulls! I’ve spent hours on trying to get this thing running again, and I’m both embarrassed and happy it cranked right up.

In any case, I’m thinking the decompression switch was the culprit and even when I pulled it shut by hand, the valve inside didn’t fully close. That would explain why it cranked up so easily today and why it had low compression readings earlier.

To be sure, Madison Lawn Care in Madison, AL has a new customer for life. Highly recommend them.

Separately, where can I buy a plug for this silly decompression switch?!?

Thanks, all.

https://www.sawagain.com/echo-cs-55...pression-valve-new-oem-a014000040-a014000110/
Echo part # A014000110

 

[SteveSr]

In any case, I’m thinking the decompression switch was the culprit and even when I pulled it shut by hand, the valve inside didn’t fully close. That would explain why it cranked up so easily today and why it had low compression readings earlier.

Now that it is running... pull the spark plug and do a compression test. This will at least verify your gauge is accurate (or not) for small engines.

Separately, where can I buy a plug for this silly decompression switch?!?

You will need to figure out thread size (diameter) and pitch and go from there. Lots of OEM saw manufacturers have compression relief plugs available.

 

[Chevboy0167]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2737087662...OMS87VRyL0OPg6wBB61qQxoQ==|tkp:Bk9SR8qwmKq4Yg

 

[Wow]

it's not a 'compression switch', it's a compression release valve and additionally, there may very well be a particle of carbon or some debris blocking the seat which will allow a compression leak. remove it and inspect it with a magnifying glass, especially the seat and make sure it's clean and reinstall t. they really don't wear out but they can get fouled and leak. Just a starting aid and with mine I don't use it anyway. I'll roll the saw (cold) to where the piston is close to TDC and attempt to start it and if it don't fire (which is pretty well the norm on the first pull cold). I repeat the process until it fires and then advance the choke lever from full choke to partial choke and start it.

With a 50cc engine, the compression release is really not necessary unless you are a gal or a woose.

The rollover to TDC works for me quite well.

Did you mean 60cc instead of 50cc ? My 490 does not have a decompression release. My 590 does. Are we talking cs590? I'm thinking 590 means something like 59 or near 60 cc.. 490= 4.9 cc or something close. Not starting a fight or being a smart guy, but I am interested in the answer..

 

[Sidecarflip]

At 73 years old, I sometimes put the incorrect thing down. You are correct, 590. I prefer just 'Timber Wolf' actually.

 

[Wow]

At 73 years old, I sometimes put the incorrect thing down. You are correct, 590. I prefer just 'Timber Wolf' actually.

Don't feel badly. I do the exact same things. I'm 76, my brother is 73 and both of us are going strong.. Ha.Ha. Good genes and hard heads. I love my 490. Recently, during storm clean up, my 590 chain dulled. Instead of spending time with a file, I cranked the 490. With a Sharp chain that saw amazed me. It cut so well. Often I go to a clean up with about 4 saws. The 352, 490, 590, and the Shtil 029. A lot of years ago I bought the 029 from a young man getting a divorce. He needed the money and I paid 200 for it. The saw needed a lot of work. He had the chain to tight and ran it to lean. At the time another friend was teaching a class on small engines. He used that saw in his class. I paid parts and the instructor rebuilt the motor and carb. I didn't have to dirty my hands for a decent saw. I hated the bar, the chain, and the .325 spur gear. I replaced all of that and did a muffler mod. The carb was set in the cut. BIg hard dry oak. It's amazing how well that saw cuts now. During one clean up, I was bucking a large Pine tree.. The guy who was working on it with one of those "box store crappy saws" was slowing me down so I asked him to step aside. Then began to cut. He stood back in awe and kept saying, man what a saw. He asked if I'd sell it. Since I don't need it, I offered it to him for 300 but he thought the price was to high. LOL. So,, I'm enjoying it and my Grandsons will own it one day. Have a great day. blessings,,

 

[mottofreee]

it's not a 'compression switch', it's a compression release valve and additionally, there may very well be a particle of carbon or some debris blocking the seat which will allow a compression leak. remove it and inspect it with a magnifying glass, especially the seat and make sure it's clean and reinstall t. they really don't wear out but they can get fouled and leak. Just a starting aid and with mine I don't use it anyway. I'll roll the saw (cold) to where the piston is close to TDC and attempt to start it and if it don't fire (which is pretty well the norm on the first pull cold). I repeat the process until it fires and then advance the choke lever from full choke to partial choke and start it.

With a 50cc engine, the compression release is really not necessary unless you are a gal or a woose.

The rollover to TDC works for me quite well.

Maybe you're not a woman, but you want to keep the starter perfectly functional for longer...

 

[Sidecarflip]

....Last time I checked, I wasn't a female... But then with all the gender transitioning, who knows.

 

[mottofreee]

The starter is designed to be used with a decompressor.
If it is used without it, it wears out prematurely.
Unlike living things, starters cannot renew themselves, they must be repaired by someone else.
Any repair requires money and time. Money is made but time...sometimes it is not available.
I hope you understood this time.