endplay
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George,
My 090's are at about .012 .
Steve
My 090's are at about .012 .
Steve
end play
I don't believe there should be any endplay in an 090.
I don't believe there should be any endplay in an 090.
Hmmm....well, any suggestions as to what I ought to do about it?
I remember VW engines had shims behind the flywheel to adjust endplay, same setup? something else?
What damage can result from this much play?
Is this typical wear, or the result of something screwy?
Thanks,
George
I remember VW engines had shims behind the flywheel to adjust endplay, same setup? something else?
What damage can result from this much play?
Is this typical wear, or the result of something screwy?
Thanks,
George
No end play?
(I don't believe there should be any endplay in an 090.)
Steve here...
One of my 090's that I measured is new...
(I don't believe there should be any endplay in an 090.)
Steve here...
One of my 090's that I measured is new...
George,
Steve here...
Here's a pic of my old one... You think your 090 has end play, you should tug on the crank of my '38 John Deere...I think it might have your 090 beat. I don't know if it is an issue, but my new 090AV came with some. I could'nt find any info on it either.
Steve
Steve here...
Here's a pic of my old one... You think your 090 has end play, you should tug on the crank of my '38 John Deere...I think it might have your 090 beat. I don't know if it is an issue, but my new 090AV came with some. I could'nt find any info on it either.
Steve
Sethro
Heathen
George
That's the best hood ornament,I've ever laid eyes on.
That's the best hood ornament,I've ever laid eyes on.
guys,
i don't believe there should be any endplay at all. especially in a new saw. this will lead to premature failure. the problem lies in the bearings, themselves, or in the assembly of the unit. i have seen, on occasion, saws with endplay cold, and none when up to operating temp, and vice-versa. usually, though, if theres endplay when cold, it will be worse when hot, and sometimes a lot worse. they may have scraped the bottom of the bearing bin when the saw was built, who knows. there is a difference in bearings. some are made tighter than others, for different applications. the only way to find out is disassemble the saw and carefully inspect the bearings. also these large displacement saws will wear out bearings and seals faster than a smaller saw. i think this is due to the overall stability of the engine. i.e. lots of cc's in a tiny package pulling a big load. i have fixed this problem once or twice by placing a custom made brass shim behind one or both bearings, but these saws either had a defect when built, or were wopped out for whatever reason. one thing is sure, the bearings need to run centered, not pushed off to one side or the other by improper installation, or the use of shims. for my money on these big stihls, i would be tearing them down to find out why theres endplay. also, are you sure your not confusing endplay with side play? you mentioned "back and forth"
i don't believe there should be any endplay at all. especially in a new saw. this will lead to premature failure. the problem lies in the bearings, themselves, or in the assembly of the unit. i have seen, on occasion, saws with endplay cold, and none when up to operating temp, and vice-versa. usually, though, if theres endplay when cold, it will be worse when hot, and sometimes a lot worse. they may have scraped the bottom of the bearing bin when the saw was built, who knows. there is a difference in bearings. some are made tighter than others, for different applications. the only way to find out is disassemble the saw and carefully inspect the bearings. also these large displacement saws will wear out bearings and seals faster than a smaller saw. i think this is due to the overall stability of the engine. i.e. lots of cc's in a tiny package pulling a big load. i have fixed this problem once or twice by placing a custom made brass shim behind one or both bearings, but these saws either had a defect when built, or were wopped out for whatever reason. one thing is sure, the bearings need to run centered, not pushed off to one side or the other by improper installation, or the use of shims. for my money on these big stihls, i would be tearing them down to find out why theres endplay. also, are you sure your not confusing endplay with side play? you mentioned "back and forth"
I think George means side play, at least thats what I measured on my two saws. The new saw has no end play and the old one has very little.
Steve
Steve
When I hear the term "end play", I consider that to mean a situation where the shaft (or components on one) are free to move side-to-side along the shaft axis. In this case, the shaft would exhibit movement into and out of the saw case.
Looking at the end of the shaft, through it's axis, if there's a circular motion to that axis (or one is possible) it would indicate runout to me.
Ideally there should be no runout, but I don't know how end play could be avoided altogether or whether none at all would even be desirable.
Glen
Looking at the end of the shaft, through it's axis, if there's a circular motion to that axis (or one is possible) it would indicate runout to me.
Ideally there should be no runout, but I don't know how end play could be avoided altogether or whether none at all would even be desirable.
Glen
runout can only mean one thing-bent crank. side play in the crankshaft is worse than endplay. ideally you don't want any play at all in the crank, but you do want it to spin freely. a saw with .025 side play has got worn/damaged bearings or crank journals, and if not repaired, will soon grind to a halt. there can be no sideplay, as this will wear out the seals prematurely, providing the bearing itself doesn't fail first. a very tiny amount of endplay is probly ok, but preferably you want zero play in any direction.
Hi, thanks for the replies. To clarify, what I mean is that if I am looking at the clutch and I grab it ( not the drum, but the clutch itself ) I can pull it towards me and push it back .025".
Seeing as I am using the saw for milling, it looks like I ought to replace the bearings and seals. I'm not too sure I anyone local is really capable of or even willing to do this. Is this something I should attempt myself? I've rebuilt a couple VW engines, and am generally mechanically inclined. It looks like it might could be done without splitting the case, but the tech manual doesn't have a procedure for replacing only the bearings. Maybe Gypo used those pages for TP?
No, It came new, factory sealed.
I am worried that if I send it off to one of the guys on the forum here, I will be tempted to have them do more than replace bearings. Maybe that is not a bad thing?
Seeing as I am using the saw for milling, it looks like I ought to replace the bearings and seals. I'm not too sure I anyone local is really capable of or even willing to do this. Is this something I should attempt myself? I've rebuilt a couple VW engines, and am generally mechanically inclined. It looks like it might could be done without splitting the case, but the tech manual doesn't have a procedure for replacing only the bearings. Maybe Gypo used those pages for TP?
No, It came new, factory sealed.I am worried that if I send it off to one of the guys on the forum here, I will be tempted to have them do more than replace bearings. Maybe that is not a bad thing?
sedanman
Just cut the piano!!
One of my 015's had so much endplay in the crank that the flywheel will rub on the point cover when I tip the saw on its side. This saw is far from grinding itself to death, it was built in 1974. I will shim the crank to eliminate the noise but only because it's an irritating noise, not because I think it will make the saw last longer.
treeclimber165
Member A.K.A Skwerl
You could do worse things to that saw than send it to DozerDan in PA. I haven't got my saw from him yet, but he has a respectable reputation around here. I've yet to hear a single person say a single bad thing about one of his saws.
dozerdan
Addicted to ArboristSite
woodbeard
The bearings on your 090 have nothing at all to do with the end play.The 090's use needle bearing not a ball type bearing for there main bearings.End play is controlled by means of thrust washers,non selective. The old beetle engine did indeed use selective shims for play adjustment..End play on your saw is usually about .010-.015 so play of .025 is only a little more then normal.If the saw has some age to it,you might want to pop out the crank seals,remove the snap rings that are behind them.this will let you remove the outside thrust washers.
Later
Dan
The bearings on your 090 have nothing at all to do with the end play.The 090's use needle bearing not a ball type bearing for there main bearings.End play is controlled by means of thrust washers,non selective. The old beetle engine did indeed use selective shims for play adjustment..End play on your saw is usually about .010-.015 so play of .025 is only a little more then normal.If the saw has some age to it,you might want to pop out the crank seals,remove the snap rings that are behind them.this will let you remove the outside thrust washers.
Later
Dan
Thanks Dan, that was the info I was looking for.
From what you are saying, I am assuming the thrust washers are probably worn, and replacing them will take out the excess play?
Is this something I should take care of quickly, or can I get by as is until the weather gets too hot to mill anyway?
Thanks,
George
From what you are saying, I am assuming the thrust washers are probably worn, and replacing them will take out the excess play?
Is this something I should take care of quickly, or can I get by as is until the weather gets too hot to mill anyway?
Thanks,
George
