Equiptment Recommendations

[Jr.Woodchuck]

I have found this site very usefull, but the technical end is WAY over my head. Since my saw experience is limited, I have the need to ask a common question. I need a saw that won't break my budget but will allow me to tackle the big jobs with ease. I would be using this saw 5-6 hours at a time since I'm clearing out some storm damage on a piece of property. I would be cutting a variety of tree type and sizes. The trees are already down so no real need to worry about climbing. I have looked around at a few models but feel some professional experience may lead me to select the right saw before I have problems or spend too much for the job.
I started reading through some chain info but got lost fast.

Any suggestions for a saw and the proper chain will be greatly appreciated.
If I need to give any other info, please post your question.

Thank you.

 

[Lobo]

You have not given us enough info. such as tree diameters and is it soft or hardwoods however one of the saws I really like and is plenty for the average task is the Stihl MS 361. However get it with standard RS 3/8'' chain instead of the 3/8'' RM chain.

It comes stsndard with 16'' bar but you can also get the 20 ''

http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/MS361.html

 

[tony marks]

whatlobo said..better to have just a little more saw than not enough..sharp chain..

 

[chainsawworld]

new or used? marty

 

[njforestfire]

Don't forget to use chaps, gloves, ear and eye protection too! All are very important. Good saw that MS361. There are many saws in that size range to look at or consider. Lobo posted some good questions that would help in our suggestions.

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

First of all, welcome to the site.

I'll go ahed and get my recommendation for the MS361 out of the way, as everyone knows that's what I'll recommend regardless of what kind of saw you really need! That said, it a great saw for alot of things. It'll run you about $550 give or take, and will be worth every penny. It's a pro caliber saw, and it acts like one too. You'd be very happy with it. If the trees are already down, what condition are they in? Meaning, are they dirty with moss, sand and dirt, or are they clean, good wood? I ask because I run Stihl RM (full skip version of) chain when I'm working with downed wood that's not the cleanest. The RM chain will hold it's sharp better than the RS would in dirty wood or if you hit dirt. Hitting dirt will dull any chain, but the RM is (I think) easier to sharpen, and is less effected by hitting conataminants. Just a thought. But there are other saws to look at too. Are you going to need the saw long term? If you're just getting the saw to clear the storm damage on a piece of property, and when that job is done, you're done with the saw, you could easily get by with a Stihl MS 290/310/390 series of saw. They'll cost you less if the $500+ price tag is too much, and they'll work fine for a summer's worth of work. I had a 310, and it was a decent saw for what it was designed for, which is homeowner, non-professional work. Stay with a good brand, Stihl, Husqvarna, Dolmar, etc, and you'll be fine. Stay away from the disposable saws you see at Wal-Mart and so on.

Any other questions, just ask. That's what the site is for. Before long, we'll have you modding the muffler, and playing with the porting on your new saw!

Take care all,
Jeff

 

[Jr.Woodchuck]

I'm uncertian as to what type trees are actually down. From what I saw some were live trees that got snapped and others are dead that fell over. If I'm correct Pine is softwood and Oak is hardwood, there were a few trees that were to big for me touch finger tips around. The most were (guessing) 16" around. They are clean for the most part, just snapped or old wood finally on the ground. For the cc size of the saw you posted I found a new Husky 372xp w/24" bar and 2 additional chains NIB for $581 plus shipping.

 

[DarioMO]

If you don't mind buying/using used...check eBay. I just bought a Stihl 044 for $269.00 (shipping included). It did need some cleaning, new filter, plugs, rim sprocket, bar and chains but that's it! Less than $350.00 total.

I see some really nice ones there right now that are still below $300 (one is ending in less than 8 hrs ). Just though I would let you know.

Dario

 

[Justin Garrison]

the 372 is a good saw a great saw actually! but if you are cutting nothing bigger than 16 inches big it would be absolute overkill. The 361 may be a little big also. If you are cutting in a 12 to 20 inch field on average an ms 260 would be good! Just my 2 cents.

 

[DarioMO]

the 372 is a good saw a great saw actually! but if you are cutting nothing bigger than 16 inches big it would be absolute overkill. The 361 may be a little big also. If you are cutting in a 12 to 20 inch field on average an ms 260 would be good! Just my 2 cents.

I agree...even my Husqvarna 55R can handle those size easy.

 

[fishhuntcutwood]

If you're cleaning up trees that are fallen, but not completely on the ground or separated from their roots, be careful. Trees leaning on other trees, or those that are broken over, and still rooted in the ground are often under a significant amount of tension, and are just waiting to release it. Put saw to them without thinking about what might happen first is a recipe for disaster. Dismantle the trees as best you can, compared to just cutting them down low, and working your way up, as is a common thing to do. Alot of guys have been hurt or killed just cleaning up fallen trees. As far as ebay, be carefull. I've bought three saws off of there, and not a single one of them has been in as good of shape as was advertised, and I've since sold two of them off for parts, as they had problems that weren't mentioned in the post and would not have been cost effective to fix. There's deals to be had, but be prepared for whatever shows up on your doorstep.

And yes, pine is soft wood, and oak is a hardwood.

Take care all,
Jeff

 

[Justin Garrison]

With those sizes of trees a 260 would be awesome. At 50cc and 10.4 pound your in the money. A 260 is comparable to my 290, but better an I've bucked 27 inch dia trees with it. The 260 can handle up to a 20inch bar maybe a shade more in soft wood if absolutly needed. for what you describe 16 to 18 will fit on fine. RS chain is best for clean wood fast cuttin. They will reccomend RM2 for new users.

 

[Jr.Woodchuck]

RS or RM chains ....Can you describe the differences in basic terms?
Well the saws I'm intrested in on EBAY are NIB and the extra chains seem to be a good deal. I do plan on keeping the saw since this could help with beer money in the future. I have already thought of the saftey factor, I do have a real job and don't need to be crippled.

 

[Lawn Masters]

RS chains are Rapid Super, which is the round chisel chain, RM, or Rapid Micro, is semi chisel, cuts slower, but holds its edge better in less than clean wood.

There's such a thing, as a safety chain, which is good for inexperienced users, but not so productive for a professional user with the bar buried in the wood often. Safety chain, looks similar to this

Pro chain, looks like this

 

[keith c raymond]

Welcome to the site. Beware of the "bug",cause it will sneak up on you.If you are looking for new,stick with a dealer.The support and advice are worth the little extra you might spend.Which brand have dealers close by?If you stick with the real names,Dolmar,Husky,Stihl,You will not be sorry.Get alittle more saw than you need,And you will be good to go.If you are opting for used,Lookand ask around this site ,There are many knowledgeable and trustworthy types to purchase from and get advice also.Dont forget all protective gear too,cause there are plenty of stories and pictures onthis site to show why its the way to go.

 

[Jr.Woodchuck]

The item on EBAY is through a dealer that has a store in CA. Now I don't live near CA but at least he has a physical store. Now buying locally may allow for service after the sale, but the size and price is hard to beat.
As far as the saw size, the 372XP is a bit bigger than what has been recommended, better to have and not need is my motto.
Thanks for the pics of the chain that will helps tons for me.
I have a smaller saw that I was going to use on the smaller twigs and limbs while the new saw is the primary log maker.

 

[clearance]

Kind of makes me cringe to think that you will be running a saw for 5-6 hours a day with little experience, especially a 372 for part of that time. People have given you good advice here about p.p.e. and stuff. I would like to add that using a saw can be very tiring, I have run saws on and of for 20 years, construction/saw, construction/saw type of thing. Last year I quit a tree service and went to work at heavy concrete construction (hirise), then I quit and went back to tree work. It took a couple of weeks to get back in shape for treework, and I have always been in shape. Pace yourself, it takes awhile for your forearms/back muscles etc. to get used to it. Sh%t usually happens at the end of the day when you are no longer at your mental and physical best. If you feel tired, stop! Get at least a couple of pressure bandages and a whistle. Good luck and take care.

 

[TonyM]

Jr. Woodchuck, I sent you a Private Message. If you are considering the 372XP, don't discount the Dolmar PS7300. Best saw in the 70cc class. Not that the 372XP and MS361 aren't good saws, but if you're thinking of bumping up to the next level, the Dolmar is worth consideration.

 

[tony marks]

i would again recommend what kieth said.. we know these guys and they are men of their word..so you have an advantage over just somebody buying from who know what sort on ebay..ive got an 026 that dan built for me.. i can honestly say it would take quite a bit more than the cost of an new 260 to get it from me..an no it aintfor sale..
good luck in your decision..

 

[Jr.Woodchuck]

I was using 5-6 hours as a start to finish running time, not a continuous running time. I know my physical limits and understand the good advice. My family is first and I'm not trying to get into a new profession. I'm just gonna make some extra cash and want to get the job done without killing a new saw. Since this won't be done in a day just figured I needed some good advice on the tools of the trade.

I really appreciate the advice.