Ethanol Free gas

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Here we go again.If you want to store your fuel a long time, get the non ethanol IF there is no water in it when you get it. Many a saw comes in with the words "only run non ethanol" and find water in it. The last one was 1/4 tank.
Myself, regular ethanol fuel, put in an additive of you choice and use it up in 90 days.
Also, empty the fuel can before mixing the next batch (water will be in the bottom).
Again, a quart glass jar is one of my most used tools. And ANYBODY can use it!
Maters-commence!
 
All we get here in Canada is ethanol fuel now. Never an issue when treated before storage. For me, Seafoam in everything other than my vehicles and Sta-BIL before storage. I run the equipment then shut the fuel off if equipped until it quits.
 
I just replaced the carb on a generator that had E10 and was not run dry over the Summer. A fuel shut-off solenoid on the bottom of the bowl was corroded from water. The fuel also smelled pretty bad. I've seen metal fuel tanks rusted from E10 left in them over the Winter. I had Rec90 in my boat that sat for 1.5 years. I siphoned out about 20 gals and it still smelled good. I put it in my truck a couple gals at a time and had no problem. Didn't risk running it in the boat because of octane loss concern. I run Rec 90 in all my saws and yard equipment.
 
Pure gas in all outdoor equipment.From '46 2N Ford to '81 372 .Only engines that get ethanol fuels are modern car/trucks with catalytic converters .If fuel stays in and not run over year- years may have issues .Looked at canned gas the other day ,curious about price ,was scarred by price sticker. :confused: Left them for other customers. Glad I have a choice.
 
Non ethanol for anything that sits for more than a few weeks and alway used for 2 strokes. Ethanol is known to absorb moisture in the same way as dry gas. That why people don’t have issues with water freezing in their fuel tanks nowadays, for the most part, in their automobiles. No hot restart issues on 90 plus degree days due to vapor lock “boiling” fuel like i have experienced with ethanol fuels. Personally i have access to non ethanol fuel at the local Sheetz gas stations, for a minimal increase in price. But the best is 100LL as the mad professor mentioned. The manufacturer states 5 years shelf life, but I’ve know people that stored for much longer with no noticeable change in quality.

Avgas is expensive but it has much smaller amounts of Tetraethyllead in it compared to leaded auto gas along with an anti-deposit additive to prevent fouling. There are no other detergents or aromatics, as they say, which I’ve read are just as bad for our health and are abundant in ethanol and non ethanol pump gas, so its a pick your poison…. Avgas is more refined and better quality overall.100LL runs about 6-7 dollars a gallon where i am at, so it’s painful to fill up the fuel bowser but i always have fuel on hand and it doesn’t go bad.

As always everyone has their reasons for what they do. I don’t want to deal with the degradation of any machine/tools parts due to the ethanol. One bad side of 100LL, it seems to swell some Stihl fuel hose, not all Stihl’s, but definitely not other brands of saw.
 
Leaded gas from the 1960s contained 2.50 grams/gallon of lead.
100LL contains 2.12 grams/gallon of lead. A negligible difference of 0.38
Everyone here needs to understand this and make an informed decision. It's your health.
 
Leaded gas from the 1960s contained 2.50 grams/gallon of lead.
100LL contains 2.12 grams/gallon of lead. A negligible difference of 0.38
Everyone here needs to understand this and make an informed decision. It's your health.
Let me preface my response with this, I never intend to persuade people to do things, but I try very hard to be accurate, and I do make mistakes sometimes. I also never intend to make people mad, and I do think that people should absolutely do their own research. I guess I assumed the risks of lead are self evident, stupid me.

Unfortunately, the internet is often very inaccurate. I have worked in the aviation industry for over twenty years along with doing tree work, so I have a small amount of experience with Avgas and its use/history. Leaded fuel, in the early years, both auto and aviation, allowed up to approximately 4 g/gal and was slowly reduced to about 2g/gal in the 80’s, then eliminated for “road use”. I would consider half the amount a significant reduction and that is what i was referring to. In addition, modern racing fuel can have as much as 6g/gal which is significantly higher than 2g/gal. On another note, there is also Avgas (G100UL) that has NO lead in it, but also very hard to obtain. I look forward to when it is readily available as I will switch to using it myself.

I agree, the risks are definitely something anyone who chooses to use leaded fuel should consider. As I stated, I think Avgas is the best option because I am able to keep a significant amount on hand and it has proven itself to have an exceptional shelf life along with good operational characteristics. Every saw I run hasn’t given me problems even after sitting with fuel in the saw for long periods. Some saws I may not run for months while others I run every week. I don’t want to worry about what saws i put away with the right fuel and which fuel tank has what type and all that stuff. Again, it’s just my viewpoint.
 
Non ethanol for anything that sits for more than a few weeks and alway used for 2 strokes. Ethanol is known to absorb moisture in the same way as dry gas. That why people don’t have issues with water freezing in their fuel tanks nowadays, for the most part, in their automobiles. No hot restart issues on 90 plus degree days due to vapor lock “boiling” fuel like i have experienced with ethanol fuels. Personally i have access to non ethanol fuel at the local Sheetz gas stations, for a minimal increase in price. But the best is 100LL as the mad professor mentioned. The manufacturer states 5 years shelf life, but I’ve know people that stored for much longer with no noticeable change in quality.

Avgas is expensive but it has much smaller amounts of Tetraethyllead in it compared to leaded auto gas along with an anti-deposit additive to prevent fouling. There are no other detergents or aromatics, as they say, which I’ve read are just as bad for our health and are abundant in ethanol and non ethanol pump gas, so its a pick your poison…. Avgas is more refined and better quality overall.100LL runs about 6-7 dollars a gallon where i am at, so it’s painful to fill up the fuel bowser but i always have fuel on hand and it doesn’t go bad.

As always everyone has their reasons for what they do. I don’t want to deal with the degradation of any machine/tools parts due to the ethanol. One bad side of 100LL, it seems to swell some Stihl fuel hose, not all Stihl’s, but definitely not other brands of saw.
Avgas has more lead than the old leaded auto gas that was sold in the late 70's early 80's. It also has more aromatics than pump gas. The lead scavengers/ detergents used in 100LL are bromide based and nastier than anything in auto gas.
Its also not more refined. What ever that means.
It is more consistent and doesn't contain poor quality streams pump gas does.
Its really stupid to use leaded fuel in hand held equipment.
 
Leaded gas from the 1960s contained 2.50 grams/gallon of lead.
100LL contains 2.12 grams/gallon of lead. A negligible difference of 0.38
Everyone here needs to understand this and make an informed decision. It's your health.
This is accurate. In about 1970 lead levels in gasoline were lowered IIRC. So the reality of the situation is 100LL has more lead in it than auto gas in the 70's.
 
We have many choices here in "corn country"

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Well looking at it from a global pollution aspect, I thought that we , and most of the world agreed to reduce pollution emissions and then find that some countries allow the use of nott only ethanol free but even leaded fuel,????? We in Europe can only get E5. Orr even E10 in some countries.....
 
If you're using your tools frequently, corn gas is not a problem as far as I know. If you let them sit, you need to dump it after maybe 6 weeks before using them. Just dump it on the ground. Mother Gaia needs to be put in her place occasionally.

I am wary of letting even treated non-ethanol gas sit, although I have started saws after 5 months without trouble. I have seen claims that modern ethanol-free gas has olefins or something in it that gum up carbs worse than old time gas, so until I know for sure, I don't trust it.

I have had one dead carb after another because I let corn gas sit in them. That includes a 4-stroke cart and 4-stroke pressure washer. A Harley, too, now that I think about it. I also got rust in a Moto Guzzi tank.

Sta-bil red doesn't work. I use Biobor EB, which is supposed to be a lot better. "EB" stands for "Ethanol Buster," but I use it in real gas, too. It's supposed to stabilize both kinds. I got a gallon at Zoro.

Corn lobbyists shouldn't be allowed to make energy policy.
 
I agree with all, here's my .02 worth. When ethanol first showed up here in the southern tier of NY, I filled a jelly jar half full. Poked a hole in the top, put the jar with gas in a sheltered area. 10+ years later, still no water, smells horrible of course.
Regardless, I off season treat my 93 e free gas with red Stabil. I've always felt fuel / vapors keep the seals etc. from drying out. I've had 4 cycle equipment sit for a year plus and started right up. Same with 2 cycle / mix Stihl lawn tools, but I don't treat my 361 or 500I as they do get used when the ground freezes.
Maybe I'm just lucky, I dunno?
 
If you're using your tools frequently, corn gas is not a problem as far as I know. If you let them sit, you need to dump it after maybe 6 weeks before using them. Just dump it on the ground. Mother Gaia needs to be put in her place occasionally.

I am wary of letting even treated non-ethanol gas sit, although I have started saws after 5 months without trouble. I have seen claims that modern ethanol-free gas has olefins or something in it that gum up carbs worse than old time gas, so until I know for sure, I don't trust it.

I have had one dead carb after another because I let corn gas sit in them. That includes a 4-stroke cart and 4-stroke pressure washer. A Harley, too, now that I think about it. I also got rust in a Moto Guzzi tank.

Sta-bil red doesn't work. I use Biobor EB, which is supposed to be a lot better. "EB" stands for "Ethanol Buster," but I use it in real gas, too. It's supposed to stabilize both kinds. I got a gallon at Zoro.

Corn lobbyists shouldn't be allowed to make energy policy.
easy way to get rid of old fuel is dump it in a mower. works great
 
When I was younger and in better health I didn't see many issues at all with 10% corn because I ran my saws way more often but now my saws may sit 4-6 months at a time during the heat of Summer. I can get 10% corn for $2.55 and up non-ethanol is $3.49-3.69 but I'll pay the difference. My riding mowing is water cooled and fuel injected and had a $300 repair to it because of ethanol gas some years ago. We had a HF Predator 212cc engine that gets put on a 30' hay elevator once year to run ear corn into a corn crib we run non-ethanol in it and when we're done we shut the fuel off and run it dry. You can't get all the fuel out of the tank by flipping it upside down so we just leave it full and it starts on the second or third pull every year for the last 10 years. We remove the engine from the elevator every year and store it in an unheated insulated equipment shed. They recently opened a Sheetz truck stop within 2 miles of here and they have non-ethanol, I don't like their fuel pricing practices of jacking it up 30¢/gallon every time some one farts but the other truck stops appear to be keeping them inline with this one. Saves me from driving 10 miles to get non-ethanol.
 

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