Falling pics 11/25/09

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hairy. but damn thats got to be 6' of fiber. not that i would have done better.:msp_wink:

It looks like he's 10,000' off the floor, but when you look at the last bit where the stem hits the ground, you see he's only maybe 10' off the ground. I've never seen springboarding in person, and really don't know jack about it but I did wonder when I first saw this vid a ways back if it was kosher. The guys obviously a pro, but it looks pretty freaky. I also thought after seeing the stem lay out that he could of maybe taken the whole thing at the ground in less time.

Shaun
 
taking it at the ground would have meant taking the big sucker on the left at the same time, not fun or easy... I do have to wonder about dropping it off the edge like that though... how much wood was lost to breakage? I imagine he had his reasons.

Seen a few of these crazy kanuks dumping BIG cedar on u-tube seems there is allways breakage though...
 
taking it at the ground would have meant taking the big sucker on the left at the same time, not fun or easy...

Yeah, that's pretty much what I meant. Sure, there would have been time in it, but more time than cutting in those springboards and then getting out on then cutting the wedge? Would have added a little more to the log that way too. My comments are obviously only speculation since I've never worked on ground that needed springboards. But I'm also a climber. I figure I could have slapped some spikes on and had that thing sorted quickly (and safely!), but even as a climber, if I can I generally do take things out from the base. Even if it's a bit more cutting, it's a lot safer and more comfortable.

Shaun
 
Quick estimate on the volume of that cedar looks to be north of 3000 bf; current WADOR stumpage values have that tree worth more than $3K whether it's all sawlogs or there's a pole in there near the top! Not bad for this day and age.
 
Quick estimate on the volume of that cedar looks to be north of 3000 bf; current WADOR stumpage values have that tree worth more than $3K whether it's all sawlogs or there's a pole in there near the top! Not bad for this day and age.

Unless its broken... but a buck a bundle for kindling could make a bunch of money for some boy scouts out there...

If prices on cedar are back up a bit I might have some falling to get busy on... before it plummets again...
 
Same old ####, different day. Did get some nice 3 log yellow pine that the cooridors skewered.

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Did have a good laugh, got hung up and pitched a fit. That sort of day. Shut my saw off and across the way the hooker hollers at me.
I calmly asked what the #### he wanted........He said, "At least you don't have to do this again till next year!"

What a pecker head.

Happy New Year - Sam
 
Same old ####, different day. Did get some nice 3 log yellow pine that the cooridors skewered.
Did have a good laugh, got hung up and pitched a fit. That sort of day. Shut my saw off and across the way the hooker hollers at me.
I calmly asked what the #### he wanted........He said, "At least you don't have to do this again till next year!"

What a pecker head.

Happy New Year - Sam

Nice pics.

When you get a half wrap? Did Forrest put a spell on you? :laugh:
 
Nice pics.

When you get a half wrap? Did Forrest put a spell on you? :laugh:

I put that saw together Saturday, shop didn't have a full-wrap, new or used.
Kinda nice, didn't get hung up in the brush so much. Did have to remember not to flip it like normal.
 
Is tree 28 a corridor tree? The blue paint looks quite fresh. :D

We're a titch bottlenecked.....Side rod running cooridors, forester chasing him with a paint gun, and me waiting at the bottom for everybody to get the hell out of the way. Oh, and a couple yarders eating the block up.....good times.

Paint's usually fresh enough to get smeared on me....
 
Around here it takes around a year for the paper work to be processed after the timber is marked...no paint smears on me! :hmm3grin2orange:
 
The paint we use is thick and oily enough to stick to bark in a hard rain. It takes awhile to dry, like up to a couple of years.

Sounds like you are using "dead baby" paint. You can google Forest Service Paint Study and learn how oil based paints might cause damage to future descendants. But then, when you read the ingredients of the replacement paint, not much has changed except it will wash right off the trees if they don't have a couple of dry days for the paint to dry. Let me see, for one particularly slow logger, I marked some corridors 3 times and after the last, told him he'd better get in and get it cut before the paint came off.

They've since come up with a more rain resistant paint, but we couldn't use it until we'd used up the old stuff, and there was a lot of old paint to chew through.

The Forest Service paint also has those secret ingredients in it to prevent dishonest folk from adding to the volume, or subtracting--I know of one case where some tree spiker types came in and marked more leave trees.

I've walked and painted with many a logger, and it is amazing how many do not understand how well a modded Treecoder paint gun sprays and splatters. I usually gave them a couple of warnings, but then figured maybe they needed to really experience the splatter. ;)
 
it is amazing how many do not understand how well a modded Treecoder paint gun sprays and splatters.

We use Nelson paint and guns. The paint is pretty grody and gets into everything -- sometimes the hinge on toolboxes are even a bit sticky -- and it stays tacky-ish on bark until about the time it starts to fade. As for splatter, here's all you need to know: silver nozzle is the smallest orifice. It uses less paint, but gets clogged up way easier. Bronze nozzle is a larger orifice. Throws paint a bit further, but goes through more. Black nozzle is the largest orifice, and my favorite. No resistance to trigger pull, and doesn't clog easily at all. Downside is that the spray fans out really quickly so you have to get right up on the tree. This makes for severe splatter. I'll come home looking like a smurf after a day marking with one of those nozzles up front. A good mod for the older Nelson guns is to grind off the lower finger hold on the handle in order to fit the longer 3-finger trigger from the plastic guns. They're working on a new version that takes all of this into account but last time I talked to them they hadn't got the castings quite right. Oh, and the weird adapter will be going away. Wonder why that thing is on there? Turns out the Nel-Spot paint guns were originally intended to be used with light lube oil rather than paint. The adapter is there because the paint used a different can than the oil. Hot rebuild tip: when replacing the leather cups, soak 'em in softsoap for a few minutes to get them to compress properly in the bore of the pick-up body. I've used oil and grease for this before but teh standard gub'mint issue softsoap seems to work teh best.
 
The Treecoder gun is designed to use some kind of ink. The mod you must make to adapt it to paint, is to simply destroy the screen in the bottom. Then, they will chew through ancient paint.

It has fewer parts than a Nelson so my non-mechanical brain could easily tear them apart, with the help of a yarder engineer's hands as a vise and replace parts in the field if needed.

I know they are plastic, and more fragile, but I prefer them to the Nelsons for their simplicity and power.

Hmmm. Nelson's as an oil sprayer. That must be why for long term storage, we put them in cans of oil.
 
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