Falling pics 11/25/09

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A soft dutchman will keep the stem moving and won't put as much pressure on the pull wood keeping it intact. Just a regular dutchman can put a lot of pressure on the hold wood. Using a root to help pull it works well. Also if you start your backcut from the dutchman side and cut across the stump to the pull side you can use the entire side of the stump to pull with.

I can give er a try.
Just curious, at what size tree do you guys stop messing with the cuts and just go face/hinge? I've tried to pull some pretty big trees and they just ate me for lunch and spit me out laughing.
The biggest wood I consistently cut around here is 30"-36". I have cut some 4' or a little over but that is a rarity.
 
If it's a stem with allot of value I'll clean out all the little trees from underneath it and dump it the way it wants to fall. Trying to swing a white oak or walnut that's 2 veneer logs high could cost you allot more than it saved you with your fancy swinging. Every tree is different. Id say if your trying to mess with big sticks of hardwood it's not worth it. Our mills despise pullers out of the butt. Softwood...........I can't say much there. I cut one site in wild and wonderful West Virgina's mountains that had some white pine that was 3' plus on the stump. I was kinda new to learning the tricks of where to keep your hold wood and how thick to leave it when your trying to quarter them up the hill so they didn't land in the drink and bust in half. Looking back I would have cut those trees 100% different theses days but it worked for me back when I cut it. Pine sucks I like hardwoods. uploadfromtaptalk1428149299549.JPG
 
I can give er a try.
Just curious, at what size tree do you guys stop messing with the cuts and just go face/hinge? I've tried to pull some pretty big trees and they just ate me for lunch and spit me out laughing.
The biggest wood I consistently cut around here is 30"-36". I have cut some 4' or a little over but that is a rarity.

This here is a 5' or so cedar leaning over a house cornered by a shop, and main power lines...

Standing tree on the left.
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And its final resting place, other then one limb, denting the shed roof, no other damage.
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This one took a massive siz, and I cut all the far side hold wood off, hung two lines in it but they didn't do a whole lot of good... both went slack as soon as she started to move.
 
There is usually a really heavy top or hard lean to contend with in my big timber. We don't get much bigger than 4 ft dbh on merch timber. It kinda goes tree by tree, but some you just have to let em go where they want. It also depends on species and stump shape. Some hardwoods hold to the stump better than others. If you have roots to use when pulling it will save out the butt of the log and still pull the tree around. I've swung some of the biggest timber we have here to save out the last logs or leave trees or make it easier to get the logs out or whatever. You really have to have em cut up just right or cut at the right time. Leaving to much wood can slow the swing and cause it to break off early. The same with too little. Its just feeling how much you need, reading the top or the stump as its moving. Nine times out of ten a regular dutchman and the right holding wood gets my trees swung. Rarely do I get get fancier than that. Knowing what you can get away with is about it. When I know a tree is committed to swinging into my lay I've cut the holding wood off that would pull out of the butt too. It took me a lot of time to get effcient at it. On a typical day I swing at least half the trees I'm cutting.
 
This here is a 5' or so cedar *** hung two lines in it but they didn't do a whole lot of good... both went slack as soon as she started to move.

NM, right there is the reason right or wrong that I use a long stretchy 1" rope when possible. I pre-load it as much as I can and get 20 feet or more out of it before it goes slack. Of course with heavy wood or a high tie, the effect doesn't last that long. Ron
 
I know that NM and TS are all about the 461, but Bitz' ported 390 will get thru stuff more faster

I am sure a ported saw that is 10+ cc bigger can get the job done better.
At the same time, I do have a 288 and it doesn't have much of an edge on my 461. A little bit but sometimes not enough to justify the extra weight and fuel consumption. I do bring it out for some of my bigger stuff though.
In the stuff I cut, I bet if I had a ported 461 I wouldn't need much else, mines stock though.

I have thought about mm my 288 and getting the hd filter, but don't know if it's really worth it. stock filter seems to gum up pretty quick though, have to blow it out or retune fairly soon with fir cutting.
 
Meh... gutted the exhaust on the first 461... didn't do much but make it louder, I hear if you put a 360 ignition module and drop loads of coin on a full build, the 461 is a screamer.

As in full proper port, pop up piston and shave the jug, along with an unlimited coil...

Otherwise the 461 keeps up with a stock 660/066 until you need a bigger bar. And while the 288 may have a leg up on it it does have more cubes... which should really mean a lot more...

Really though, sent 6 hours or so in the bushes today and only burned a tank and 3/4 or so, granted I spent most of that time fighting with black berries... still not sure if they won or not...
 
The evergreens are pretty rare around here, not impossible to find...

The Mountain version are just sweeter and more fun to pick, only problem is that DNR has been gating roads so you can't get to em along with spraying to give the trees a head start... used to take my dog back when I was a pup... had to be careful cause he'd pick as many as you... come home with his snout all purple...

That and our alpine blue berries... both are a day long adventure for a few gallons of berries, not that that is a problem (unless your logging 3 days a week and working the other 5)

Looked at a piece of dirt a few weeks ago that was covered in the evergreen huckle berries... along with the various detritus of tweeker dom
 
I am sure a ported saw that is 10+ cc bigger can get the job done better.
At the same time, I do have a 288 and it doesn't have much of an edge on my 461. A little bit but sometimes not enough to justify the extra weight and fuel consumption. I do bring it out for some of my bigger stuff though.
In the stuff I cut, I bet if I had a ported 461 I wouldn't need much else, mines stock though.

I have thought about mm my 288 and getting the hd filter, but don't know if it's really worth it. stock filter seems to gum up pretty quick though, have to blow it out or retune fairly soon with fir cutting.
Ya, my post didn't make much sense, go figure. I was thinking about avoiding fiber pull on a bigger one when using simple face and back cut falling. A bigger ported (just bigger never seems that much "faster") saw would make it easier to chase the hinge. On a topic I actually know about......the HD filter does help the 288. That stock one is just so damn small for a saw that size. Ported 288's cut pretty well, so I hear........
 
Ya, my post didn't make much sense, go figure. I was thinking about avoiding fiber pull on a bigger one when using simple face and back cut falling. A bigger ported (just bigger never seems that much "faster") saw would make it easier to chase the hinge. On a topic I actually know about......the HD filter does help the 288. That stock one is just so damn small for a saw that size. Ported 288's cut pretty well, so I hear........

So... not so deep of a face will help with the fiber pulling... gives you a chance to saw more of the hold wood before she commits, pretty much requires the use of a wedge though, of course this is useless on a hard leaner. And yes big cubes with high r's will help if you plan on chasing the hinge... me I prefer to run and hide when possible.
 

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