Falling pics 11/25/09

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Woodfarmer- you want to remove as much compression wood in a tree before you release the tension wood. What this means is a wider face then you had. Gut the hinge from the face leaving tabs of Hinge on each side. In most trees you'll be cutting, 1/2" of hinge wood is sufficient and anything much thicker then that in ash with a narrow face will split the tree and or barber chair it. I put ash in the top three for most chair prone trees. White oak is second and hickory is first. Ash can be really manipulated well on the stump if you cut it up right. Swings great, holds great, but it can be a real ***** if you don't do it right.
 
You make a lot of assumptions. All I said was GOL says 2/3 tree dia for face cut. Then I referenced the notch closing before the tree made the ground. Then the crying about GOL started. Never did hear any reference to my observations, just criticism of GOL. Also heard several uninformed statements on GOL standards for cutting including hinge requirements and ALWAYS bore cutting on the back cut. Both are false. But you hire who you want. You're probably right. I've only been falling for about 35 years. I've still got a lot to learn.
I've noticed a lot of stuff on here I wouldn't advise anyone to do, you know like one handed cutting with their heads over the bar, chasing the hinge which means you're at the stump when the log hits the deck & limbs falling around them, everyone has to start somewhere, but some of the oldtimers are the worst offenders of perpetuating the bad practices which can get someone hurt real bad or worst.
Thanskinski
 
I really don't have much to say about bore cutting other then the guys who do it all the time do it all the time and don't actually think about the Dynamics involved with what they're doing. You can cut every hardwood tree in north America without bore cutting any of them. You just have to know how. I haven't bore cut anything in years and I started bore cutting everything. Cutting trees and falling timber for production are two very different things. One is trying to get a tree safely to the ground without getting killed and one is trying to save out the entire stick for max dollar in the most safe, efficient way possible.
 
I've noticed a lot of stuff on here I wouldn't advise anyone to do, you know like one handed cutting with their heads over the bar, chasing the hinge which means you're at the stump when the log hits the deck & limbs falling around them, everyone has to start somewhere, but some of the oldtimers are the worst offenders of perpetuating the bad practices which can get someone hurt real bad or worst.
Thanskinski

You cut up that broom handle yet?
 
I might have to soon , seeing it's too hard a task for you blitzer, nearly a 100k a year & you can't afford the time and money to experiment with a handsaw & thumb sized sapling. Ho ho merry xmas
I experiment with actual trees Reggie. What's it like having Christmas in summer?
 
I experiment with actual trees Reggie. What's it like having Christmas in summer?
Me too & before you were even a glint in your mummas eye, Ive never seen one go anywhere but the general direction they were leaning to, I just live in the hope some hotshot can show me how, the old broomstick is so easy for them to demonstrate it on.
About 36'C today & 90% humidity, fairly average xmas weather. Having a long lunch then back to sawmilling after a swim in the river, I can hear a storm brewing so it might get bearable in a couple of hours.
Thanski
 
sometimes I take the ignore function off... then I have to slap myself for doing so...

I admit I argue a lot, it comes from being told the wrong **** too often and learning the hard way how to do it right.

Folks just get an idea in their head and can't seem to get around the thought that there might be a better way,

"these are just simple farmers,
people of the land,
common clay of the new land

You know Morons"
 
LOL That USED to be done, not much anymore that I'm aware of! My brother and I dug one out for a guy over 30 yrs. ago-- seems like I was running an 056 Super with a 24" bar --basically used up a good chain! Seriously, we cut LOW on good Walnut but don't dig them out!!

post on here about cutting 18" below groundline for some German buyer. Money talks I guess. Enough of it and one could rootwad and powerwash the stump I suppose!
 
I'd be happy too! Didn't lose any teeth, the saw, bar, or get collected by the falling limbs

Pulling the saw free by the starter cord is a well-respected trick for staying clear of those exact hazards. I'd think a guy who knows as much as you do would recognize that.
 
Pulling the saw free by the starter cord is a well-respected trick for staying clear of those exact hazards. I'd think a guy who knows as much as you do would recognize that.
The idea is not ever get into that situation where you have to use that trick
 
The idea is not ever get into that situation where you have to use that trick
... feeding the trolls but...

In a perfect world every tree would be a perfect taper, no lean, no obstructions, no underbrush, with 7 escape paths.

This isn't a perfect world and I for one am glad of that, so we need to be prepared to adapt and overcome that what challenges us.

So I can rescue the saw and get far enough away to be clear of the butt and bigger branches, risking the out liers that likely won't hurt real bad, or i can abandon the saw and loose it along with the weeks worth of work to replace it, probably hurrying me back to hourly wages in a shop i hate.

Which in the end is a fate worse then death to me at this point.

Blah blah saw is replaceable bla blah blah lives are not blah blah blah.

I know the risks, I am fully aware of the consequences of my decisions.

If the Norns smile on me all i can do is smile back.
 
The idea is not ever get into that situation where you have to use that trick
If you've never had to do that you haven't cut enough timber. The more you talk the more you reveal, like I've said many times. So far I have one picture of one rotten stump from your own property. Let's see how far you can piss.
 

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