No there was a full hinge I trimmed the side that had long fibres still on it to make it safer to fall the next part of the tree, I had to winch it over first because it was limb tied with the bigger bole & some really big dead limbs in the heads of both, I also had to rip down around 4' of the fork between the two. I only use a 25" bar so it not easy to get your plunge cuts to line up on from each the side of the butt when the main stem is still in the way, if you're sharp you will pick up why there would have been long fibres on only one side of the stump.
Falling pics 11/25/09
- Thread starter Burvol
- Start date
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Tis a nice clean stump.
Further proving my theory that some folks are functionally illiterate.
There is a difference between fatalities per 100000 and actual fatalities.
There is a difference between fatalities per 100000 and actual fatalities.
Now that is a good hinge
Thanks man. I have been lurking around this thread for a while and have really enjoyed your posts and pics! I don't know if you have ever had the pleasure of cutting Redwood but it's like cheating. Cuts like butter and you can make it do pretty much anything.
Y
Like the 91 deaths quoted & the 135.9 deaths per 100,000 in that industry from your own source. The orange bars in the graph are how many actually died, the blue bars are fatal injury rate per 100,000. The bottom written part specifically states what the bars on the graph show.
You certainly a strange perception of who is functionality illiterate, I'll post up the picture again, really big this time so you can't miss it. The bottom line is you guys die at (ten times) a higher incidence rate & numbers in logging than we do & I'm not at all surprised when I see videos of some of you guys in action.
I've cut one... one tree...
Acts a lot like red ceder, but with really annoying bark, and not so much center rot. Felt like it had better hold wood though.
Trx250r180
Saw polisher
I am not a logger but want to ask why you use a 25 inch bar in a big tree ? That dont seem safe to me as making all my cuts from one spot. I seen lot of guys run 20 inch also and walk around the tree for a back cut , mostly east coast though. Trees must not chair out like they do here i take it ?
Skeans
Addicted to ArboristSite
You know what uncle BW can kiss our butts because he's not worth it he couldn't live or fall with us any day of the week, yes Reggie I'm calling your old as *** out I know guys in their 80's that cut guess what Imagine This hazard dangerous trees DBag.
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
KiwiBro
Mill 'em, nails be damned.
If producers can hold on long enough or were simply lucky enough to be born in the right decade/s, their time in the sun, earning exactly what they are worth, not what ******** further up the chain can get away with, will come back around. Usually after a catastrophic reset that wipe enough parasites off the teat.
We use shorter bars because most of the trees are never over 2 bar lengths in diameter & my ms660 wont cut efficiently with much more bar length, it's the fibrous bark that pinches the chain when cut & saps the power then the hardness & density of the timber finishes off the rest of the power, when I first started the norm was 076 & 3120's with 30" bars for the bigger stuff & 056's with a 25" bars for the usual
I don't know what the length of a bar has to do with a tree slabbing up or not.
what are you on about? From what I can gather you pinch your saw on every tree you fall on steep country then have to one handedly hold onto it to save it & your arse from being clobbered while hanging around at the stump, you can gladly have that all to your own , I would like to see a video of it though.
bitzer
******** Timber Expert
Why do you leave such a thick hinge Reggie? I would think that super hard wood would chair more easily. Why not bore the heart wood from the face when you can see what you're doing? Not the prettiest I've seen. If not cutting for production and the way you talk they should be damn near perfect.
bitzer
******** Timber Expert
Nice stump. What's with the conventional faces all the time? I mean you do good. Just curious. Personally I like how a tree comes off the stump better with a Humboldt.
Well when they start to go there's no need to hang around the stump and cut anymore, it's just not the place to be.
In my local area there's only a couple of species that slab up easily, so you just are a little more careful with them , if you hear them popping on the face cut I'll bore them from the hinge back. I cut to order so it's not often I can dawdle along as I often have the weather & time to beat.
As it was a couple of months ago I can't for the life of me remember why I bored the middle of the hinge out of that stump.
Trx250r180
Saw polisher
I can get away with a 70-75 cc saw that has been hopped up with a 32 inch bar if use skip chain on the wood around here ,hardwoods or softwoods ,just have to sharpen the chain right , I have never been around the other woods like oaks so i cant say if my setup would work for what you do ,the longer bar feels safer to me in small stuff ,keeps my face further away from the tree in smaller stuff ,our trees blow up and barberchair if don't cut them right ,there's many ways to do the same thing ,i just don't feel safe walking behind a tree once the face is in ,do you have wrap handlebars or regular half wraps ?
Yea the bark can be a pain and it swells up at certain times of the year which really makes it a nightmare. The hinge (hold wood) is the best.
