RandyMac
Stiff Member
perhaps, he wasn't all wrong
Humboldt seems like a lot more work pulling up rather than using gravity and letting the saw eat.
I can sit in the same spot pull a face then a back cut off a dog on the saw show me a conventional face cutter that can do that? Most of your guys stuff is slow and doesn't pay be honest you guys do firewood for a living or pulp it's nothing like here I do CT for a living you guys back there are let's say.
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I'll have a crack;Would you translate that to ENGLISH for the rest of us?
Would you translate that to ENGLISH for the rest of us?
It seems like it is? Try it sometime. You might be surprised at how easy it is. You might also be surprised and pleased at how much more control you have over the direction of fall.
I have tried it, don't like it. My goal is to leave stumps the same height as my clutch cover thickness.
I disagree. Waste 6-8 inches on the stump and miss the last 8' log in a tree because of it and you'll wish you cut it lower. As for a humboldt face, they have their place and I use it when it's called for. Usually it's a double or rotten tree that requires a high stump. I use the humboldt for the same reason that west coast fallers originally did. To get the tree to slip off that high stump.Conventional faces go in faster because you're cutting less wood. That being said when I'm in steeper ground I'm using Humboldts a lot more. I use the face that I know will save out the stick. I think that's what a lot of east coast guys don't get. Take this red oak for instance. The root flair is terrible. Cutting an honest Humboldt in it would take forever. It's a conventional with a snipe on the stump which has a similar effect to a Humboldt. The goal to get the butt down asap. Yes the stump is high but it's a marm. Couldn't find another good swell picture. Cutting Humboldts in big hard maple is a nightmare. You're cutting twice the wood and it typically has dirt pockets. That whole 1" at the stump is worth a foot at the top is a myth. Most Mills don't like that twisted up stump wood. They want the super clear grain wood which is typically power head on it's side high on big trees or higher. So many guys focus on saving the butt log. That's the easy part. Saving out the entire stick all day will add up in bf by the end of week. And cutting just above the flair will get you several more trees down a day. I'll take another 1000 bf a day over saving a few tens of bf on the low stump. Like I said if the skidder runs over the stump it's good.
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Conventional faces go in faster because you're cutting less wood. That being said when I'm in steeper ground I'm using Humboldts a lot more. I use the face that I know will save out the stick. I think that's what a lot of east coast guys don't get. Take this red oak for instance. The root flair is terrible. Cutting an honest Humboldt in it would take forever. It's a conventional with a snipe on the stump which has a similar effect to a Humboldt. The goal to get the butt down asap. Yes the stump is high but it's a marm. Couldn't find another good swell picture. Cutting Humboldts in big hard maple is a nightmare. You're cutting twice the wood and it typically has dirt pockets. That whole 1" at the stump is worth a foot at the top is a myth. Most Mills don't like that twisted up stump wood. They want the super clear grain wood which is typically power head on it's side high on big trees or higher. So many guys focus on saving the butt log. That's the easy part. Saving out the entire stick all day will add up in bf by the end of week. And cutting just above the flair will get you several more trees down a day. I'll take another 1000 bf a day over saving a few tens of bf on the low stump. Like I said if the skidder runs over the stump it's good.
View attachment 627083
Guess that is another difference.I guess at some point the question in my mind is, if that tree was not cut and sawed in full production mode but rather with an eye to what kind of grain could result out of that butt swell; would it be worth a heck of a lot more money? I don't have an answer, just thinking out loud. I love looking at the grain that comes out when a pc of wood is sawed or split
I disagree. Waste 6-8 inches on the stump and miss the last 8' log in a tree because of it and you'll wish you cut it lower. As for a humboldt face, they have their place and I use it when it's called for. Usually it's a double or rotten tree that requires a high stump. I use the humboldt for the same reason that west coast fallers originally did. To get the tree to slip off that high stump.
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