FarmerTec Huztl MS660 Updated Build Kit - Build Thread

[Thefenceguy30]

Yeah it runs great I'm very pleased with the kit View attachment 626481

The only ornage on the farmertec saw is the stihl sticker on the guard for the underside

I been on holiday and just logged back in. That is a nice looking kit. You got the handle portion done also, so its complete. nice job. how did you do that?

Thanks the kit only took two evenings to build the only issue I've had is the gas cap leaked so I replaced that

 

[Thefenceguy30]

What are you using to make your first cut?

I use a treated 2×8

 

[Thefenceguy30]

What are you using to make your first cut?

A treated 2x8

 

[Thefenceguy30]

Nice. I have that exact same setup for my 36" GB mill. I even bought that Archer Pro 36.... Was gonna mill some today, but chores got me.

The biggest problem is the cheap hardware on the mill . Did you do a break in on your saw ? I didn't I put it in ran it wide open and its already been through several tanks of gas without any issues

 

[Thefenceguy30]

When you buy the carbon shroud and filter cover and strap them on there is a large triangle of orange that is not covered. The kit builders had his covered and that's what I meant

The carburetor housing yeah I replaced to too

 

[Thefenceguy30]

How"s it oil????

Seems to oil fine

 

[Thefenceguy30]

I been on holiday and just logged back in. That is a nice looking kit. You got the handle portion done also, so its complete. nice job. how did you do that?

I purchased all the carbon dipped parts on ebay I made sure I could get everything to do the entire saw

 

[Bedford T]

I purchased all the carbon dipped parts on ebay I made sure I could get everything to do the entire saw

I was just thinking. I need to look back at my photos from way back. At one time that piece was orange. Then I went who cares, it's not now.

 

[William Prophett]

The biggest problem is the cheap hardware on the mill . Did you do a break in on your saw ? I didn't I put it in ran it wide open and its already been through several tanks of gas without any issues

Yeah, I've done a couple tree jobs with it and cut some firewood at home breaking it in. I haven't run it in the mill yet. I had to make up rip chain for the Archer/Stihl combo. My Carltons are 115 DL 3/8 .063... SonI had to take out a drive link. Worked out perfect because Inhad a brand new chain with a damaged tooth... So we will see. The 56mm seems to run great. I'll test out the durability of this thing, thats for sure.

 

[William Prophett]

The biggest problem is the cheap hardware on the mill . Did you do a break in on your saw ? I didn't I put it in ran it wide open and its already been through several tanks of gas without any issues

What kind of mill do you have? The Huztl one? Mine is a GB and I'm really happy with the build quality.

 

[Thefenceguy30]

What kind of mill do you have? The Huztl one? Mine is a GB and I'm really happy with the build quality.

Mine is a gb in not sure if the hardware issue is because of cheap hardware or me assembling it the first time with my battery impact but I purchased a seperate hardware kit when I bought the mill and have been replacing hardware as it has stripped the hardware issue is probably because of me

 

[MG porting]

Hi there gents I have a question about the Farmertec ms660 I've have been building one for bucking big logs and I was wondering on what would be a safe rpm to set it at? Thank you

 

[William Prophett]

Hi there gents I have a question about the Farmertec ms660 I've have been building one for bucking big logs and I was wondering on what would be a safe rpm to set it at? Thank you

How much time do you have on the saw? Pretty tough to answer the question, but all I can do is tell you what I do... When I build or rebuild a saw, I run mine about 1000 rpm on the fat side until I'm comfortable that it's broken in. So, on the 660 I am running mine at 12,500 on the high side for now... I run all my saws 40:1... To be honest, since the 56mm will end up on the mill, I may not turn it up... It runs really strong at 12,500 and I'm not building race saws... I've done a couple tree jobs and cut a bunch of wood breaking it in with a 25" bar, and this thing is a really nice running saw. I can say that I really notice a big difference with the Caber rings over the FT... So, thats just me, but 2800 on the low side and 12,500 on the high.

 

[MG porting]

How much time do you have on the saw? Pretty tough to answer the question, but all I can do is tell you what I do... When I build or rebuild a saw, I run mine about 1000 rpm on the fat side until I'm comfortable that it's broken in. So, on the 660 I am running mine at 12,500 on the high side for now... I run all my saws 40:1... To be honest, since the 56mm will end up on the mill, I may not turn it up... It runs really strong at 12,500 and I'm not building race saws... I've done a couple tree jobs and cut a bunch of wood breaking it in with a 25" bar, and this thing is a really nice running saw. I can say that I really notice a big difference with the Caber rings over the FT... So, thats just me, but 2800 on the low side and 12,500 on the high.

OK thank you for the responses I've got three tanks through it now I was running mine around 12,600 although it was running OK but seemed to be really fat at that rpm I bumped it up to 13,000 and it seems to be happy there but I was a little worried that that rpm might be a little to much I'm running the 54mm bore with the farmertec ring. What's your feelings on this? I really don't want to hert this saw but it doesn't seem to not like running at this rpm. & I to run my saw 40.1.

 

[Bedford T]

OK thank you for the responses I've got three tanks through it now I was running mine around 12,600 although it was running OK but seemed to be really fat at that rpm I bumped it up to 13,000 and it seems to be happy there but I was a little worried that that rpm might be a little to much I'm running the 54mm bore with the farmertec ring. What's your feelings on this? I really don't want to hert this saw but it doesn't seem to not like running at this rpm. & I to run my saw 40.1.

100 rpm is nothing to worry about. Your ear is important. Fuel quality and air temperature have a huge effect. I never understood why a little fat was bad. It just means it's got more oil being circulated. On a new saw Watch the position of your filter in the tank. And remember for a fairly long time you need to keep that tank full as possible because of the kink in the hose. It relaxes after a while. So until then be careful on avoiding a lean condition

 

[MG porting]

100 rpm is nothing to worry about. Your ear is important. Fuel quality and air temperature have a huge effect. I never understood why a little fat was bad. It just means it's got more oil being circulated. On a new saw Watch the position of your filter in the tank. And remember for a fairly long time you need to keep that tank full as possible because of the kink in the hose. It relaxes after a while. So until then be careful on avoiding a lean condition

OK thanks for the input and Yea I thought that the hose was a little funky. Lol.

 

[MG porting]

100 rpm is nothing to worry about. Your ear is important. Fuel quality and air temperature have a huge effect. I never understood why a little fat was bad. It just means it's got more oil being circulated. On a new saw Watch the position of your filter in the tank. And remember for a fairly long time you need to keep that tank full as possible because of the kink in the hose. It relaxes after a while. So until then be careful on avoiding a lean condition

And I noticed you were talking about the bar oiler and I was wondering if you ever tried modding the farmertec one because I noticed that mine was on the light side to.

 

[William Prophett]

So, here is "saw school" on running "fat"... A lean saw runs really clean, but doesn't lube as much... A rich saw rins really dirty, but lubes better... Somewhere in the middle is a saw that runs kinda clean and lubes just right (sounds like goldy lochs and the three bears)... So, running a saw fat is giving it max lube, but its running dirty. Running too fat can lead to carbon buildup and "could" damage a cylinder... What I do is to run a small amount of Seafoam in my mix while I'm running on the rich side, so it has some cleaning aspects as well as the extra lubrication. Now, 12,500 isn't running really dirty... 10,500 would be really dirty... I do notice at 12,500 and 40:1 that it will puff a little after idling for a while when you rev it up... But, 12,500 is very "torquey" for milling... I'm not cutting cookies, so I'd rather have the low end torque and the extra oil... Remember, when you are cutting firewood or bucking trees, you're in the throttle for 15-30 seconds at a time. A tank can buck an entire tree. When milling, I run an entire tank of fuel on one 11' long by 24" wide slab... You could be in the throttle for 8-10 minutes in some cases (minus a couple small breaks for wedges and fatigue)... I might run 10 tanks of gas through a saw in one day milling... Thats a year of firewood cutting for most people...

 

[MG porting]

So, here is "saw school" on running "fat"... A lean saw runs really clean, but doesn't lube as much... A rich saw rins really dirty, but lubes better... Somewhere in the middle is a saw that runs kinda clean and lubes just right (sounds like goldy lochs and the three bears)... So, running a saw fat is giving it max lube, but its running dirty. Running too fat can lead to carbon buildup and "could" damage a cylinder... What I do is to run a small amount of Seafoam in my mix while I'm running on the rich side, so it has some cleaning aspects as well as the extra lubrication. Now, 12,500 isn't running really dirty... 10,500 would be really dirty... I do notice at 12,500 and 40:1 that it will puff a little after idling for a while when you rev it up... But, 12,500 is very "torquey" for milling... I'm not cutting cookies, so I'd rather have the low end torque and the extra oil... Remember, when you are cutting firewood or bucking trees, you're in the throttle for 15-30 seconds at a time. A tank can buck an entire tree. When milling, I run an entire tank of fuel on one 11' long by 24" wide slab... You could be in the throttle for 8-10 minutes in some cases (minus a couple small breaks for wedges and fatigue)... I might run 10 tanks of gas through a saw in one day milling... Thats a year of firewood cutting for most people...

Yep I see your point you would definitely be running yours a lot harder than I would on mine. Thanks for the quick response

 

[Bedford T]

And I noticed you were talking about the bar oiler and I was wondering if you ever tried modding the farmertec one because I noticed that mine was on the light side to.

No, but you could. The 15$ I spent you could not buy the parts to upgrade the farmertec, some did it in the early kit days, no problems. The case and gears are copies. It oils just like one made by Stihl, which in not enough in my opinion, I like my chain damp. Put a 20" and the sthil would have a damp chain, move up to 36" and not so much. I first noticed it on the 029. On a 16" bar it barely did it's job and you could see the effects on the bar. I guess it was use only enough to not impact the environment? I hated to see the Stihl bar degrade so I have paid attention. No other option on a 440. But the 660 ho works great on a 28 mine currently wears.