FarmerTec Huztl MS660 Updated Build Kit - Build Thread

[hacksaw11111]

Hi all, looks like i have a problem with my build #2. The oiler hole is not drilled through. Unfortunately I already put the case halves together!
Can someone confirm this should be a through hole? Where the oiler seal goes?

not sure how i should proceed, drill it out together and get metal shavings in the oil well or try to split the case?

here is bedfords video where the seal goes

 

[MG porting]

Hi all, looks like i have a problem with my build #2. The oiler hole is not drilled through. Unfortunately I already put the case halves together!
Can someone confirm this should be a through hole? Where the oiler seal goes?

not sure how i should proceed, drill it out together and get metal shavings in the oil well or try to split the case?

here is bedfords video where the seal goes



View attachment 640075 View attachment 640076

Do not drill stop what you are doing look closely there's another hole that intersects with that hole up where the two bar studs are hold a flash like a confirm that there both drilled through.

 

[MG porting]

Do not drill stop what you are doing look closely there's another hole that intersects with that hole up where the two bar studs are hold a flash like a confirm that there both drilled through.

Flash light

 

[hacksaw11111]

Do not drill stop what you are doing look closely there's another hole that intersects with that hole up where the two bar studs are hold a flash like a confirm that there both drilled through.

thanks, for the help...was thinking this was like the last cylinder head they sent me, with the through holes 90% of the way through, but i think i can see where they meet on a 90...looks like the one (parallel to case) should have been drilled deeper though.

 

[MG porting]

thanks, for the help...was thinking this was like the last cylinder head they sent me, with the through holes 90% of the way through, but i think i can see where they meet on a 90...looks like the one (parallel to case) should have been drilled deeper though.

well I hope you are having fun building your saw I know the feeling when you come across something that makes you scratch your head. Lol so don't worry we all can help when asked. Can't wait to see yours all put together.

 

[hacksaw11111]

Missing m5 nuts, wrong spring, no chain catcher...same as last order...you would think they would have this down by now

 

[MG porting]

Missing m5 nuts, wrong spring, no chain catcher...same as last order...you would think they would have this down by now

Yea it's seams that they would have figured out how to but the right parts with the right saw. Lol. But I think they like to keep us guessing

 

[Ck0461]

I put my clone through a test today. 40” oak uprooted on a buddy’s farm. Bucked to 6’-8’ lengths and ripped into quarters for milling later. Saw performed great. Only issue that I had was later in the day it began to be a pain to start when the saw was hot. Anyone else dealt with this?

I’m going to stick a new plug in it and adjust the carb to see if it corrects the issues next time out. It also could have be that I couldn’t pull the cord as fast after heaving it around all day.

Just to keep from being explained the difference in starting a hot and a cold saw, the choke wouldn’t be engaged when the saw was hot.

 

[MG porting]

I put my clone through a test today. 40” oak uprooted on a buddy’s farm. Bucked to 6’-8’ lengths and ripped into quarters for milling later. Saw performed great. Only issue that I had was later in the day it began to be a pain to start when the saw was hot. Anyone else dealt with this?

I’m going to stick a new plug in it and adjust the carb to see if it corrects the issues next time out. It also could have be that I couldn’t pull the cord as fast after heaving it around all day.

Just to keep from being explained the difference in starting a hot and a cold saw, the choke wouldn’t be engaged when the saw was hot.

You my have been running a little lean but you were running it in some hard would all day to witch it's going to run hot ether way. Good to here that it held up good job. I would check your tune like you stated and I would pop the muffler cover off and check and see how it looks inside the cylinder just to be safe it's something I do with all my saws it's cheap insurance.

 

[Ck0461]

I’m sure it wasn’t lean. I tune on the rich side and compression is enough to pull the saw out of your hands without the decomp pressed.
The saws had about 5 gallons of fuel run through it, but today was the first time I’ve worked it on back to back tanks for several hours. It was also shut off and started a lot, due to moving the pieces out of the way. I’m not overly concerned. I just don’t have much experience with clones, unless you want to count all the AM rebuilds I’ve done.

I have to say that y’all got the problematic parts in these kits figure out. Super fun projects

 

[MG porting]

I’m sure it wasn’t lean. I tune on the rich side and compression is enough to pull the saw out of your hands without the decomp pressed.
The saws had about 5 gallons of fuel run through it, but today was the first time I’ve worked it on back to back tanks for several hours. It was also shut off and started a lot, due to moving the pieces out of the way. I’m not overly concerned. I just don’t have much experience with clones, unless you want to count all the AM rebuilds I’ve done.

I have to say that y’all got the problematic parts in these kits figure out. Super fun projects

OH yes they are lot's of fun if I had the funds I would build three more this year. Lol

 

[golddredgergold]

Missing m5 nuts, wrong spring, no chain catcher...same as last order...you would think they would have this down by now

I was missing the m5 nuts as well. One screw for the chain guard as well. And wrong spring.

 

[MG porting]

I was missing the m5 nuts as well. One screw for the chain guard as well. And wrong spring.

It's a mixed bag on what you will get and not get with these kits but you can go to your local dealer and get the missing items you need to get it going.

 

[golddredgergold]

It's a mixed bag on what you will get and not get with these kits but you can go to your local dealer and get the missing items you need to get it going.

A quick trip to ace hardware and I had the screw and nuts. So not a huge deal. I bought the spring ahead of time so had it. Over all stoked with my kit. Finish my plastics with hydro dip. And I will be ready to run it. Break in with a 20" bar then swap to a 42" on an alaskan mill. See how it goes. 070 next on the build list.

 

[David.M]

I started assembling my ms660 kit last night. =) Using all farmertec parts from the kit. No "upgrades" at this point.

Crank case halves in the oven at 245 degrees for 20 minutes. Crank in the freezer for 1-2 hours. Used the supplied crank case gasket, with no silicone or anything on it.
Put flywheel side of the case on the crank shaft first. It slid together like butter, by hand. No tools required. I worked quick though. Assembled within 10 seconds of removing from oven/freezer. I then set it on blocks, put the gasket in place, and got the pto side of the crank case out of the freezer. It was around the 45 second mark I think when I slid it on. It had some resistance and bound up tighter than I could press on by hand. I tapped on the top of the case with a rubber mallet to get it together. The case finally snapped together around the 1 minute mark, but it pushed the PTO side bearing most of the way out of the crank case. I then used a heat gun and laser thermometer to heat the case around the bearing to about 200 degrees, braced the assembly on the flywheel side crank shaft, and used a large socket and rubber mallet to pound on the outer race of the bearing and was able to get it seated down to where it should be with about 5 hits.

Note: If I do another kit, I am going to leave the case halves in the oven for 25-30 minutes, and freeze the crank for 5+ hours. With a slightly better temperature differential, I think both halves would have slid together by hand.

Test fit piston and cylinder before installing rings and 1184 to base. First, the cylinder contacted the side of the crank case so I had to fix that with a dremel as was illustrated on this thread a few pages back. After the cylinder was sitting flush on the crank case seating surface, I checked squish. Without the supplied 0.022" thick base gasket, the piston contacted the top of the cylinder. (enough that I couldn't rotate it through by hand) This was with cylinder bolts tightened. I then installed the base gasket and checked again. It rotated freely. Checked squish with solder through the spark plug hole, it measured 0.028". So the spot that I measured isn't the lowest spot....but it does rotate freely.

I then installed rings, and put 1184 below and above the base gasket and got the cylinder torqued down. Then backed cylinder bolts out one at a time and applied blue lock-tite and reinstalled.

 

[David.M]

Many people recommend using the oil pump as a backing to seat the pto bearing against when assembling the crank cases. I didn't though because I didn't know if I the oil pump assembly would be damaged by being baked in the oven with the crank case, and I didn't want to take the time to install it after pulling the case out of the oven because I'd be losing heat. I was really going for speed on this attempt.

What do you guys do?

 

[gchamber]

Many people recommend using the oil pump as a backing to seat the pto bearing against when assembling the crank cases. I didn't though because I didn't know if I the oil pump assembly would be damaged by being baked in the oven with the crank case, and I didn't want to take the time to install it after pulling the case out of the oven because I'd be losing heat. I was really going for speed on this attempt.

What do you guys do?

you're really going to want to upgrade some of the AM parts with OEM. Otherwise you'll get the whole saw together and then have to replace them 1 at a time as they fail anyway. Have you vac tested the cylinder yet? I'd be interested to see how the heat/freeze impacted your crank seals. It's 100% worth the $150-$200 in OEM parts for the peace of mind knowing the saw has quality components where they are needed the most.

When I put the case together, I used a big C clamp and properly sized sockets on the inner races of the bearings. I was not finnagling with hot/cold parts that may or may not go together and having to worry about getting the crank properly centered, etc.

 

[David.M]

No vac test yet, but I will.

I didn't think about a C-clamp, but that's a good idea.

 

[hacksaw11111]

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[blsnelling]

... it pushed the PTO side bearing most of the way out of the crank case. I then used a heat gun and laser thermometer to heat the case around the bearing to about 200 degrees, braced the assembly on the flywheel side crank shaft, and used a large socket and rubber mallet to pound on the outer race of the bearing and was able to get it seated down to where it should be with about 5 hits.

You really want to support the crank in the middle before doing this. Otherwise, you're liable to bend the crank.