FarmerTec Huztl MS660 Updated Build Kit - Build Thread

[golddredgergold]

So

I believe that the small O ring goes under the drive gear for the bar tensioner.

So I must have just gotten 2 of the little o rings then. I put one under the drive gear so I am set. looks like I am short 2 nuts that both the carb down and one locknut for the bucking teeth. The upper case side. So just a trip to the hardware store for those and I can wrap this project up. Looking forward to the test fire.

 

[Imprzed205]

No politics, I was talking about higher kit costs. No more on my part.

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info

I bet the parts will be worse. In retaliation. A screw you. I dreaded this. I enjoyed building, learning. Thankfully I am past that but there are other people coming along. Sad if it all flows like it appears it will. You know tools are made of steel, clutches, bolts, chain, sprockets, that is a whole other price increase on top of that. It will be like in new Zealand and Australia where buying a 661 is like buying a used car. Sadder lol

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info

No politics just facts.
I doubt they'll shot their self in the foot that way customers will only put up with so much before going else where. Like I said we'll see how they act. Saw parts are small potatoes compared to steel for transportation and building infrastructure.
Huztl still giving people the wrong parts over and over is a slap in the face. Along with the new problems that has surfaced

 

[MG porting]

So

So I must have just gotten 2 of the little o rings then. I put one under the drive gear so I am set. looks like I am short 2 nuts that both the carb down and one locknut for the bucking teeth. The upper case side. So just a trip to the hardware store for those and I can wrap this project up. Looking forward to the test fire.

Yep you got 2 that's what happened to me I kept scathing my head for a while until I decided I put the saw altogether with all the parts needed heck I even got extra av mounts can't complain about that.

 

[golddredgergold]

I ended up with just about on all the small rubber parts. But short a couple of screws and 3 nuts. Not to bad.

 

[Bedford T]

No politics just facts.
I doubt they'll shot their self in the foot that way customers will only put up with so much before going else where. Like I said we'll see how they act. Saw parts are small potatoes compared to steel for transportation and building infrastructure.
Huztl still giving people the wrong parts over and over is a slap in the face. Along with the new problems that has surfaced[/

Interesting that you don't think they have already shot themselves in the foot. Are you hiding from them? There is no where to go. Imports are imports. And again if you want to talk about anything other parts there must be a thread for that. They will react the same way they always have. Send us photo, we so sorry it will still work. Except it will cost 30% or more to be treated like that. I would be willing to bet I have been dealing with them in a more direct way than you for a longer period of time. I know exactly what is going to happen.

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info

 

[Imprzed205]

You we're speaking of tariffs and prices. There's very little steel in the kits. Mostly aluminum and plastic. Aluminum tariffs would be 10%.
If your in talks with them then I would watch out.

 

[gchamber]

A little more autopsy from last night. Is the blueing on the wrist pin something to worry about? It's OEM pin, I was going to reuse it. The crank still seems fine so I'm hoping with a new manifold, I can just put the 54mm piston and cylinder on it and get back to work.

 

[morbius18]

View attachment 639433 View attachment 639434 View attachment 639435 A little more autopsy from last night. Is the blueing on the wrist pin something to worry about? It's OEM pin, I was going to reuse it. The crank still seems fine so I'm hoping with a new manifold, I can just put the 54mm piston and cylinder on it and get back to work.

I've reused some that have blueing. Most of the ones that I've done will also have slight blueing of the piston end of the rod as well, even on good runners that I've just reringed.

Are your circlips intact? Something made its way into the combustion chamber and gouged the p&c.

 

[gchamber]

I've reused some that have blueing. Most of the ones that I've done will also have slight blueing of the piston end of the rod as well, even on good runners that I've just reringed.

Are your circlips intact? Something made its way into the combustion chamber and gouged the p&c.

Circlips in tact. Used OEM clips. I'm not sure what could have gotten in there. Bc the piston and and cylinder look to be solid as well

 

[Imprzed205]

Moving forward.
The piston looks as if it was rubbing in the cylinder. If you know the mix and tune was correct then there's mechanical problem.

I found why mine **** the bed. My ring end gap was virtually zero. So when it got hot the ring had no where to expand.
Also the piston to cylinder clearance needs to be checked. I haven't done that yet.

 

[MG porting]

View attachment 639433 View attachment 639434 View attachment 639435 A little more autopsy from last night. Is the blueing on the wrist pin something to worry about? It's OEM pin, I was going to reuse it. The crank still seems fine so I'm hoping with a new manifold, I can just put the 54mm piston and cylinder on it and get back to work.

Yea that pin got hot I would replace it if it was me.

 

[gchamber]

Moving forward.
The piston looks as if it was rubbing in the cylinder. If you know the mix and tune was correct then there's a mechanical problem.

I found why mine **** the bed. My ring end gap was virtually zero. So when it got hot the ring had no where to expand.
Also the piston to cylinder clearance needs to be checked. I haven't done that yet.

Mine had an air leak where I tightened the manifold band clamp too tight and split the rubber. So it was leaning out. I'm assuming that was enough to cause lack of lubrication and friction that led to the catastrophic failure. I haven't found any indication that something made its way into the combustion chamber but I will do some more inspecting this evening

 

[Imprzed205]

Mine had an air leak where I tightened the manifold band clamp too tight and split the rubber. So it was leaning out. I'm assuming that was enough to cause lack of lubrication and friction that led to the catastrophic failure. I haven't found any indication that something made its way into the combustion chamber but I will do some more inspecting this evening

Oh that's right. I've been pondering over my failure. If you don't find a foreign object in there It could have smeared a piece of the piston down the cylinder to cause that deep scratch.

 

[MG porting]

OK just for fun today I'm going to do some port work on the spare farmertec ms660 cylinder I will be posting the pics sometime this evening for you all it's more or less my version of a wood's port and it works well for a working saw.

 

[golddredgergold]

First time I have messed with a Decomp valve on the 660. So with the valve closed there is still a substantial amount of blow by? I thought maybe the oem replacement I got was bad. I put the hutzl valve included with the kit in and same exact amount of blow by. Push it in and of course I get lots of blow by like it should but when closed why do the leak so much? Put my thumb over the hole compression jumps huge and pops my thumb off. I don't have a regular plug for it. Trying to test compression but can't do it with these Decomp in place.

 

[gchamber]

First time I have messed with a Decomp valve on the 660. So with the valve closed there is still a substantial amount of blow by? I thought maybe the oem replacement I got was bad. I put the hutzl valve included with the kit in and same exact amount of blow by. Push it in and of course I get lots of blow by like it should but when closed why do the leak so much? Put my thumb over the hole compression jumps huge and pops my thumb off. I don't have a regular plug for it. Trying to test compression but can't do it with these Decomp in place.

decomp valves are an accident waiting to happen. just plug it and you'll be fine.

 

[golddredgergold]

decomp valves are an accident waiting to happen. just plug it and you'll be fine.

Got one ordered. But still would like to know how and why it works like it does? It bleeds a bunch even closed. Does this stop when it fires up? Or is it a compression loss all the time? Makes zero sense. I can put it in my mouth and blow through it with the valve closed?

 

[gchamber]

Got one ordered. But still would like to know how and why it works like it does? It bleeds a bunch even closed. Does this stop when it fires up? Or is it a compression loss all the time? Makes zero sense. I can put it in my mouth and blow through it with the valve closed?

There is no gasket. It is just metal on metal so you are not going to get perfect tolerances to ensure a leak proof seal.

 

[MG porting]

OK did my port work today although some people might think my work isn't pretty but not this pretty don't always make power or torke so here's some pictures for you all. The intake I widened 1mm both sides. The transfers I tapered the bottoms and the brig I did some work to help get a little more flow to the uppers. The exhaust I didn't widen or change top or bottom of the entry way at all just opened up the outside of the port and polished it. I made a gasket out of printers paper now squish is . 016 not to happy with that but I may run it just to see if it can handle it my 064 is right around that with 200 pounds of compression.

 

[MG porting]

Forgot a photo this shows that I reshaped the side's of the intake when I widen them.