IQRaceworks
ArboristSite Member
What about a bar? The Oregon 32" bars are crazy expensive.......is there some china brand 32" bar I can get for a good price that will match the China 660 Huztl saw kit? I didn't see any on the Huztl site that big.
FarmerTec Huztl MS660 Updated Build Kit - Build Thread
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cre73
Always Lurking, never posting
I got a 36in Oregon and two woodland pro chains for 125 off Amazon. I was pretty happy with the price.
cre73
Always Lurking, never posting
That is a pretty good price, book marked the page for the future.
Well I lost crankcase pressure and vacuum. I had an extra crank seals. Replcaed the one on the PTO side and it still leaks.
Brian
Brian
Bummer. Was it a FarmerTec seal you replaced it with? Did you put dirko or something similar on the rim of the seal? What's you gut feeling on the cause? Did you have another failure recently that messes with the crank? PTO side is the tricky one, can't recall? The one with the lip that can cause issues with the spring?
I replaced the PTO side with a Farmer Tech seal. It being Saturday night that is all I had. When I put seals in I use Maxium Waterproof grease and lube the rubber lip of the seal and use gasket sealer around the outside of the seal. I use alcohol and wipe everything down before applying sealant and grease so everything is clean and oil/grease free. I have an extra deep socket that I use as a seal driver. I have installed many seals in saws and motorcycles and use extreme caution to ensure to not damage the seal or sealing area and or seal seat. I started it up and it started reving as I would adjust the low control and the more I richened it up the higher it revved so I suspect the fresh rebuild. I have the flywheel off and that seal looks good but I am going to replace it.
Brian
Brian
You did all the right things, surely it's a one off. I had to pull my cross jug off I was so proud of it. Piston rubbing. The farmertec top I used does no have that issue. The recoil broke twice trying to start it. Mostly oem parts, shredded them parts. Another bummer. Got it broke down. And ready in about 5-6 hours
anybody buying that crap will get what they pay for, no self respecting person that relies on these kits to make money as a faller or arborist might just as well burn their money.
By the way it has a 56mm kit on it. I would not suspect anything there checked mounting screws and they are all tight. But you never know. I guess I am just going to have to pressure test it and see where the leak is. I checked the intake and the pulse hose and they both seam to be fine. I think I will start it and spray carb cleaner around everything and see if I can find the leak this way.
Brian
Brian
Remember your decomp will cause a fail on the pressure test. On the cylinder I was just showing you one offs that can effect us. An upgrade cylinder wreaking havoc... unexpected. Definitely do a test
I plan to. I have a bolt to put in place of the DSP valve so there is no leakage. I just got to find my stopper and exhaust blockoff plate. Don't remember where I put them.
Where was your leak?
I bought a cross cylinder kit to put on this kit. I wrote about the finishes on the cylinders between nikasil and the farmertec. i recently got a big surprise on the cross.
I have some damaged lungs and have trouble starting huge saws sometimes, so this problem was slow to raise its head. I was delayed by the guys work schedule who helps me. so anyway...
He broke the recoil twice and that should have been a warning to me. First time I thought it was something I had done in building it, it was the day i planned to tune it. I had already used a stihl rotor in the build, but anyway I fixed it. next time he could, he tried to crank it again. i watched and knew he was having a really hard time pulling it. he is healthy and strong as an ox. then the recoil melted. bent the spring deformed the edges of two stihl pawls. i knew then something was bad wrong.
i had just read another post on one that two cranks had failed and in the end the cross cylinder was the common denominator. so i emptied out my fluids and did a mind meld with the saw. when the piston was all the way down and when you start up i would hear a ping. movement was around 1mm. very repeatable. so i stripped both sides so nothing could be misleading me. ping.
so i pulled the cylinder and you can see scuffs. the engine idled for about 3 minutes the day i built it. the linkage was not hooked up so i could only idle...thankfully. so i have installed the farmertec cylinder and now no ping, and the correct amount of resistance from compression. my buddy has more real world experience and i am sending it to him for review. i asked the other guy when he acquired his and never got an answer so i am not sure if it was possible they could be from same production run.
those cylinders are not cheap, i wonder how many other folks had a problem and are blaming other parts. i love building but tearing that saw apart to remove a nice looking cylinder was a pita and expensive.
I have some damaged lungs and have trouble starting huge saws sometimes, so this problem was slow to raise its head. I was delayed by the guys work schedule who helps me. so anyway...
He broke the recoil twice and that should have been a warning to me. First time I thought it was something I had done in building it, it was the day i planned to tune it. I had already used a stihl rotor in the build, but anyway I fixed it. next time he could, he tried to crank it again. i watched and knew he was having a really hard time pulling it. he is healthy and strong as an ox. then the recoil melted. bent the spring deformed the edges of two stihl pawls. i knew then something was bad wrong.
i had just read another post on one that two cranks had failed and in the end the cross cylinder was the common denominator. so i emptied out my fluids and did a mind meld with the saw. when the piston was all the way down and when you start up i would hear a ping. movement was around 1mm. very repeatable. so i stripped both sides so nothing could be misleading me. ping.
so i pulled the cylinder and you can see scuffs. the engine idled for about 3 minutes the day i built it. the linkage was not hooked up so i could only idle...thankfully. so i have installed the farmertec cylinder and now no ping, and the correct amount of resistance from compression. my buddy has more real world experience and i am sending it to him for review. i asked the other guy when he acquired his and never got an answer so i am not sure if it was possible they could be from same production run.
those cylinders are not cheap, i wonder how many other folks had a problem and are blaming other parts. i love building but tearing that saw apart to remove a nice looking cylinder was a pita and expensive.
Well I now have more info on what happened to my saw. It seams like I must have not gotten the clamp on the intake boot right. It slipped backwards and as the saw ran it started cutting into the rubber until it cut into the boot enough to cause an air leak. Not sure how that happened. It had another flap cut out about half way between the carb and the cylinder. Not sure how that happened. Both were on the under side of the boot, both were very clean cuts. My problem is how could this saw run and cut for at least a month and I mean I bucked a bunch of big timber, how could have the saw done this with a cut like it had in the intake boot? I don't understand how the boot got the center cut, nothing there to cut it and how did it run and run good with a 1/8" flap cut in it. I will get pictures.
Brian
Brian
Where is the piston rubbing? Is that red RTV?You did all the right things, surely it's a one off. I had to pull my cross jug off I was so proud of it. Piston rubbing. The farmertec top I used does no have that issue. The recoil broke twice trying to start it. Mostly oem parts, shredded them parts. Another bummer. Got it broke down. And ready in about 5-6 hours
William Prophett
ArboristSite Operative
Hey Bedford. Wanted to say Hi, and I enjoy your videos. I'm building a HMS660 and wondering is there a parts list for the kit somewhere? I asked Hutzl and they told me "no, watch videos"... Haha. I'm completely familiar with the build, but I think there should be a parts list for "newbys" to double check the kit when they get it. This kit that I just received didn't have any of the parts bags labeled like I've seen in some of the newer build videos. I can pull the OEM parts schematics and measure out bolts for any saw, but maybe some people can't. Had to grab a kit with both jugs at the Black Friday deal, but I see that they pulled a small "lets get rid of some of our older crap cause it's a deal" trick.... No labels, asymetric ports on the jugs, no pin in brake band, ****** brake tension spring with the hook on the side, brass inserts not in the top cover etc.... I'll update after I put it together later today.. I'm tossing on the 56 and hoping there isn't a freeport issue... Kinda sucks, but you reap what you sow I guess...
Stop dude. Make us a list. I will post it on my website. You can post it here. I kick myself Everytime for not making it the first time. I did make one for the 250. Better late than never. Lol
Thanks for kind words.
