milkie62
ArboristSite Guru
I have used rental machines before and thought all the homeowner machines to lack one feature or other that I wanted on a splitter. My suggestion is do the math and work backwards from there. How much tonnage do you think you really need. How fast to you want the cycle time to be. Tonnage is a factor of bore size and pressure. Speed is a factor of how much oil it takes to move your piston in and out. HP is a factor of flow and pressure. You decide what you want or need and work from there. Plenty of online calculators to come up with the numbers you are trying to achieve. The biggest problem usually is in the amount of money one has to spend.
As for my recommendation, I would stay more practical, I would build a multi "T" wedge design similar to what Eastonmade uses. I would go for the 28gpm two stage pump and probably a 4.5in bore cyl with the biggest rod I could find. I would make sure the cyl ports where at least 3/4in id. I would want a log lift for lifting and staging rounds to be split. I would also want a boom mounted remote controlled winch with log tongs, not that screw in thingy, to pull large rounds up to the log lift. If I was splitting wood on site I would want the wedge mounted on the tongue end of the splitter so splits could be loaded on the truck as they are split. If I was splitting in a dedicated splitting area, I would want the wedge on the opposite end from the tongue so splits could fall off into a pile. Probably want a tongue on each end of the splitter so I could use the splitter in either situation. I would step up the engine size to the next size above the recommended hp for the size pump I was using and I would also use a autocycle valve to free up the hands for moving wood while the cylinder cycles.
For the most part I think the highest rating on splitter parts is 3000 psi. Have seen some rated at 2500 psi. So IMO get everything rated for 3000 psi and set your valve right at 3000 and no less. Cylinder size and the pressure will make a big difference. My first no-name valve which could not be adjusted was set at 2200 psi. It worked good but wore a groove in the detent for the auto return. Changed to a Prince which was factory set at 2750 and I adjusted to 3000 on my guage and that little bit helped on those crotchy oaks and elm. Like Mudd said about a 4.5" cylinder will keep you moving OK without the extra loss of going to a 5 " cyl.