What size gasket did you use? I have no play in my front doors at all. Did you adjust the latching mechanism on the front doors to allow for the new gaskets? If so maybe you adjusted too much, if not then try tightening it now. good luck
Federal Airtight 264CCL Questions
- Thread starter bsearcey
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bsearcey
ArboristSite Operative
I used the gasket size specified in the manual. I believe it is 3/4". I did not try and adjust the latch though. I was going to give that a try today when I get home. Anybody have any experience adjusting the latches?
BTW - geo, how's everything going with the 288?
BTW - geo, how's everything going with the 288?
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It is awesome! I really need to post pics of the hearth, stove and warming shelf. The latch has a bolt and a piece of female cast on the end. I had to spray a ton of PB Blaster to loosen it up before I adjusted mine. Spray it down and turn it counter clockwise with a pair of vice grips to the needed setting. good luck
Bryan, I doubt you could ever melt the top late. However, you have an air intake valve for the secondary chamber above the loading door and I believe you may want to close that down a tad.
These high temps are generally caused by a blast furnace affect with a low fuel-air ratio. So, if you reduce the air flow into the chamber, that should cool things off. One of the nice features of these old Federal Airtights is that you have so much control of the fire with the three valves.
Today we had a strong north wind come in and I reached 1430 F. You will notice that the outside air and chimney draft have an enormous affect on burning efficiency.
Combustor Size
Hello, everyone. We're in the process of ordering a combustor for the DutchWest FA264CCL (8/83) model wood stove. The confusion comes from the Condar site which says that we need the 6" x 2" 25 size combustor.
But, from the Firecat site they show us what we believe is the right size combustor which is the 5.66" x 1.5" 25.
Can someone just clarify real quick which size we need?
Thank you in advance.
Hello, everyone. We're in the process of ordering a combustor for the DutchWest FA264CCL (8/83) model wood stove. The confusion comes from the Condar site which says that we need the 6" x 2" 25 size combustor.
But, from the Firecat site they show us what we believe is the right size combustor which is the 5.66" x 1.5" 25.
Can someone just clarify real quick which size we need?
Thank you in advance.
Welcome aboard. I imagine either would work. The original that I used to use was close to 2" thick. Nowadays, I use a 1/4" thick steel plate with lots of drilled holes that I make in my shop (posted earlier here). That works very well for me and it's lasted over three years. Should be good for at least ten. I clean it under a faucet ever so often.
Thanks for the quick reply. We appreciate it.
Do you think we need the 5.66" x 1.5" size. This seems to be the size that may be required for the pre 90's model.
We're just looking for confirmation because it doesn't say in the manual.
BTW! We have read and considered your homemade design but we would like to try the recommended way first. But I have already made plans for a 1/4" steele plate. :msp_rolleyes:
Thanks Doc!
Do you think we need the 5.66" x 1.5" size. This seems to be the size that may be required for the pre 90's model.
We're just looking for confirmation because it doesn't say in the manual.
BTW! We have read and considered your homemade design but we would like to try the recommended way first. But I have already made plans for a 1/4" steele plate. :msp_rolleyes:
Thanks Doc!
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You will not be dissatisfied. I have a backup design I may try this week with smaller holes but more holes in the plate. Likely, that would require an extra cleaning per month, but that's a piece of cake. I run it under tap water a few minutes and brush it off.
By comparison, cleaning a cat combustor is a mess and in only a few years, they fall apart. The steel plate will likely last longer than your car.
I look forward to seeing your design.
flannag
New Member
Restoring 264...breakdown instructions needed
I have a 1983 FA264CCR that I am restoring due to being weathered and neglected. I am having a hard time getting the front, back and sides off. I have removed the top already and all moving parts. What would help a lot is to get a set of detailed assembly disassembly instructions for the stove. I have searched everywhere and I have all the owners manuals for the various models but not enough info to help yet. Please any instructions of assembly/disassembly of a 264. TIA
I have a 1983 FA264CCR that I am restoring due to being weathered and neglected. I am having a hard time getting the front, back and sides off. I have removed the top already and all moving parts. What would help a lot is to get a set of detailed assembly disassembly instructions for the stove. I have searched everywhere and I have all the owners manuals for the various models but not enough info to help yet. Please any instructions of assembly/disassembly of a 264. TIA
sawmillersam
ArboristSite Lurker
Just bought a FA264 and making 1st post
Found a Federal Airtight 264 on craigslist a few days ago and liked the looks of it.
I didn't know anything about them so searched for some info and found this site.
Reading the pros and cons I decided that I would like to buy the stove if it looked
OK after seeing it. Went and checked it out and bought it for $200.00. It is one of
the earlier ones (8/1983) but seemed to have not been abused. Was used up until
a couple years ago, I was told. The guy said it had never been apart and resealed so
I may take the top off and reseal that area before using it although it does look to be
OK. I have an oil furnace but use wood heat to cut down on oil use.
here are some pictures:
View attachment 215212View attachment 215213View attachment 215214View attachment 215215View attachment 215216
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sawmillersam
Found a Federal Airtight 264 on craigslist a few days ago and liked the looks of it.
I didn't know anything about them so searched for some info and found this site.
Reading the pros and cons I decided that I would like to buy the stove if it looked
OK after seeing it. Went and checked it out and bought it for $200.00. It is one of
the earlier ones (8/1983) but seemed to have not been abused. Was used up until
a couple years ago, I was told. The guy said it had never been apart and resealed so
I may take the top off and reseal that area before using it although it does look to be
OK. I have an oil furnace but use wood heat to cut down on oil use.
here are some pictures:
View attachment 215212View attachment 215213View attachment 215214View attachment 215215View attachment 215216
-----------------------
sawmillersam
sawmillersam
ArboristSite Lurker
Just bought an FA264
A couple follow up pictures on purchase. Owner said the catalytic converter was replaced
about 2 years before he stopped using the stove. All the openings are clear so will give it
a cleaning and try it. I think I got all the parts except the grates for coal burning but not
planning to burn coal anyway. I did get the two solid side plates. Also have the thermometer.
View attachment 215223View attachment 215224
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sawmillersam
A couple follow up pictures on purchase. Owner said the catalytic converter was replaced
about 2 years before he stopped using the stove. All the openings are clear so will give it
a cleaning and try it. I think I got all the parts except the grates for coal burning but not
planning to burn coal anyway. I did get the two solid side plates. Also have the thermometer.
View attachment 215223View attachment 215224
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sawmillersam
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GadZooks!
I have a feeling you have a good stove and at the lowest price I have ever seen. You did say that you paid less than $1,000 for it, right? This stove will probably last another 30 years--maybe more. I bought my 288 in 1987.
Happy woodburning and Happy belated New Year! :msp_biggrin:
I have a feeling you have a good stove and at the lowest price I have ever seen. You did say that you paid less than $1,000 for it, right? This stove will probably last another 30 years--maybe more. I bought my 288 in 1987.
Happy woodburning and Happy belated New Year! :msp_biggrin:
sawmillersam
ArboristSite Lurker
Just bought an FA264
Thanks, Wood Doctor, for the encouraging comment. Makes me glad I brought the stove home. Your
posts through the thread taught me a lot about the Federal airtights. I enjoyed all the other's posts
also.
The picture of the stove at the bottom of my last post is my wood heater at present. It is a Tiawan
copy of a Jotel. Been using it for about 25 years. Puts out a lot of heat. (I thought I had deleted the
picture to change it but it re-appeared)
I have one question about my FA264. The metal plate under the cat converter was replaced with
the solid metal one. The owner said the original was solid also. Should I replace it with the one with holes
as is shown in all the diagrams different ones have posted? Not a big expense (and seeing as I got the stove
for less than $1000) I don't mind buying a new one.
I also realize I don't have the solid metal plates that go on the shaker grates. No big deal for me as I
am a welder and do some fabricating. Were the originals cast iron?
Thanks, Wood Doctor, for the encouraging comment. Makes me glad I brought the stove home. Your
posts through the thread taught me a lot about the Federal airtights. I enjoyed all the other's posts
also.
The picture of the stove at the bottom of my last post is my wood heater at present. It is a Tiawan
copy of a Jotel. Been using it for about 25 years. Puts out a lot of heat. (I thought I had deleted the
picture to change it but it re-appeared)
I have one question about my FA264. The metal plate under the cat converter was replaced with
the solid metal one. The owner said the original was solid also. Should I replace it with the one with holes
as is shown in all the diagrams different ones have posted? Not a big expense (and seeing as I got the stove
for less than $1000) I don't mind buying a new one.
I also realize I don't have the solid metal plates that go on the shaker grates. No big deal for me as I
am a welder and do some fabricating. Were the originals cast iron?
Thanks for the Pics
This is interesting, and I think Brandon should also throw his hat into the ring because he has a 264CCL and I have the bigger 288CCL. The 288 never used a solid plate with side openings above it to allow the combustible smoke to escape. Instead, the 288 used a perforated plate with several large holes in it to allow hot gases to pass through it and directly into the cat combustor.
I imagine either design would work. I do know that the original perforated plate below the 288's cat combustor eventually burned out. I imagine it was about 1/8" thick or so and was thus underdesigned. The plate I replaced it with and showed earlier on this thread is twice that thickness. Note that you must have space above that solid plate on your 264 to allow gases to escape around it and then into the cat combustor.
The idea behind all these designs is to burn smoke that is not completely burned. Very hot steel leading into a secondary heat chamber can do that, and so can a high-tech cat combustor. I opted for hot steel as a lower cost alternative that is very easy to clean and maintain.
This is interesting, and I think Brandon should also throw his hat into the ring because he has a 264CCL and I have the bigger 288CCL. The 288 never used a solid plate with side openings above it to allow the combustible smoke to escape. Instead, the 288 used a perforated plate with several large holes in it to allow hot gases to pass through it and directly into the cat combustor.
I imagine either design would work. I do know that the original perforated plate below the 288's cat combustor eventually burned out. I imagine it was about 1/8" thick or so and was thus underdesigned. The plate I replaced it with and showed earlier on this thread is twice that thickness. Note that you must have space above that solid plate on your 264 to allow gases to escape around it and then into the cat combustor.
The idea behind all these designs is to burn smoke that is not completely burned. Very hot steel leading into a secondary heat chamber can do that, and so can a high-tech cat combustor. I opted for hot steel as a lower cost alternative that is very easy to clean and maintain.
bsearcey
ArboristSite Operative
Use the perforated plate.
My old stove had a solid plate. I was constantly having to clean ash build up off of the cat. My new stove has a perforated plate and the cat is as clean as it was before the first fire. I truly believe it is because the plate is perforated. My theory is: The solid plate allowed ashes to collect and build up directed under the cat. When the cat was engaged, the exhaust would stir the resting ashes up and into the cat before it was able to fully ignite and help burn it off, thus causing areas of the cat to not ever engage. It was a real pain. I was constantly cleaning the cat and dealing with it becoming completly clogged. The perforated plate doesn't allow the ashes to accumulate underneath.
My two stoves do differ. My first one was like your's Sam - 1st generation or beta version. Your stove is definitely in alot better shape than mine. My new stove is newer and has the combustion air inlet. Honestly I don't ever use it since my cat takes off like a rocket. I don't need to give it anymore air. I have started leaving the overfire (feed door) air inlet open just a hair. I was having backpuffing issues with the stove completely shut down. This seems to have stopped that problem. For some reason, with my newer stove, I'm getting incredibly high cat temps. I guarantee it is pushing 2000 degrees. The recess that the thermometer sits in will glow orange and my Harbour Freight infrared thermometer can't read the temp because it is above it's upper limit of 968. I was worried at first, but have gotten use to it so just let it do it's thing. Probably isn't good for the cat, but I can't figure out how to get it to calm down.
My newer stove has the plates on the shaker grates, and my old one didn't. I haven't really seen a difference. Doesn't seem to help contain coals any better. I'd say either or is fine. I think I remember reading in the manual that there is supposed to be a 1 or 2 percent increase in efficiency with the plates.
Anyway...I say go perforated.
My old stove had a solid plate. I was constantly having to clean ash build up off of the cat. My new stove has a perforated plate and the cat is as clean as it was before the first fire. I truly believe it is because the plate is perforated. My theory is: The solid plate allowed ashes to collect and build up directed under the cat. When the cat was engaged, the exhaust would stir the resting ashes up and into the cat before it was able to fully ignite and help burn it off, thus causing areas of the cat to not ever engage. It was a real pain. I was constantly cleaning the cat and dealing with it becoming completly clogged. The perforated plate doesn't allow the ashes to accumulate underneath.
My two stoves do differ. My first one was like your's Sam - 1st generation or beta version. Your stove is definitely in alot better shape than mine. My new stove is newer and has the combustion air inlet. Honestly I don't ever use it since my cat takes off like a rocket. I don't need to give it anymore air. I have started leaving the overfire (feed door) air inlet open just a hair. I was having backpuffing issues with the stove completely shut down. This seems to have stopped that problem. For some reason, with my newer stove, I'm getting incredibly high cat temps. I guarantee it is pushing 2000 degrees. The recess that the thermometer sits in will glow orange and my Harbour Freight infrared thermometer can't read the temp because it is above it's upper limit of 968. I was worried at first, but have gotten use to it so just let it do it's thing. Probably isn't good for the cat, but I can't figure out how to get it to calm down.
My newer stove has the plates on the shaker grates, and my old one didn't. I haven't really seen a difference. Doesn't seem to help contain coals any better. I'd say either or is fine. I think I remember reading in the manual that there is supposed to be a 1 or 2 percent increase in efficiency with the plates.
Anyway...I say go perforated.
bsearcey
ArboristSite Operative
I just took a look of those pictures of the baffle plate under the cat....I can definitley say that diamond plate was not what came with the stove. Definitely get the perforated and if it doesn't come with new bolts, get some. It looks like they used whatever they had laying around the shop to fix it. Those bolts sticking way down are going to piss you off when you start trying to load it full of wood.
Check That Thermometer
Brandon, I am still maxing out at 1450 F, even today with north winds blowing 40 mph now and then. I'm starting to think your bimetallic strip thermometer may be defective. Check the coil connection under the top plate of the thermometer. These give out after awhile and the readings become invalid because the coil is loose.
Meanwhile, I must admit that this stove is performing beautifully after 24 years. I could run it continuously if I could train the dog to wake me up at about 4 am to add a log or two. You can dump cool ashes from the pan with the fire still going. Then add more wood, shake the grates, and away she goes.
Brandon, I am still maxing out at 1450 F, even today with north winds blowing 40 mph now and then. I'm starting to think your bimetallic strip thermometer may be defective. Check the coil connection under the top plate of the thermometer. These give out after awhile and the readings become invalid because the coil is loose.
Meanwhile, I must admit that this stove is performing beautifully after 24 years. I could run it continuously if I could train the dog to wake me up at about 4 am to add a log or two. You can dump cool ashes from the pan with the fire still going. Then add more wood, shake the grates, and away she goes.
sawmillersam
ArboristSite Lurker
Just bought an FA264
Thanks for the comments and advice. I had decided I wanted the perforated plate so
I ordered the one from Black Swan Hearth. Cost $32.84 with shipping. Got it yesterday.
I will put it in before I start using the stove. I agree that the guy used what he had
laying around to replace the baffle plate and whatever bolts he could find. I wil buy
new bolts of correct length.
Vermont Castings parts store has the shaker grate plates for $7.70 each. With
shipping would be about $26.00 for 2. But I think I will make some if I decide I want them.
New baffle plate plate is 1/4 inch thick where holes are and thicker around edges:
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sawmillersam
Thanks for the comments and advice. I had decided I wanted the perforated plate so
I ordered the one from Black Swan Hearth. Cost $32.84 with shipping. Got it yesterday.
I will put it in before I start using the stove. I agree that the guy used what he had
laying around to replace the baffle plate and whatever bolts he could find. I wil buy
new bolts of correct length.
Vermont Castings parts store has the shaker grate plates for $7.70 each. With
shipping would be about $26.00 for 2. But I think I will make some if I decide I want them.
New baffle plate plate is 1/4 inch thick where holes are and thicker around edges:
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sawmillersam
dyerkutn
New Member
I am looking for the brass handles that open the air vents and doors for my very old Federal Airtight (1980's). Where can I find these
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