Felling 2 trees

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Well here is another picture for discussion...

image022.jpg


Here is the web page the above is from...
http://www.coloradofirecamp.com/s-212-chainsaws/glossary_D-F.htm
 
Maybe it,s spossed to be , but look close , it,s a dutchman . .. I,m not saying Commander Bob did the diagram , but who ever did needs to be a bit more careful with their cuts , .... The reason I brought it up is lots of guys have got killed or crippled for life because they didn,t pay close attention to the details on the stump ,an d the particular tree that got them needed the details done right ....
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. Not gettin after anyone . Just don,t want any of the silent majority to think full face dutchmen are the right thing to do ......

They are good for sliding the butt onto the deck fast arenth they?
 
Here is a dutchman I put in on purpose to help swing this tree into the lay I needed it to go into .
FallingTimberBigBearTimberSaleCh-4.jpg
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It had leaned hard over the line and I didn,t want to spend 15 minutes pounding wedges . I also put in a Siswheel Swing cut on the up hill side of the face that helps keep the tree hooked to the stump longer , which helps also pull the tree into your intended lay ... Yellow Cedar are kind of brittle and will break their holding wood sometimes without accomplishing alot ....I also tapped in 1 wedge on the lower half of the backcut to get it to go into the dutchman
 
Dutchmen

If you look at the top pic you can see a gap between the holding wood on the left side of the stump and where the tree is in the face ( Humbolt under cut ) that gap /distance is the length of the kerf dutchman on that side of the stump .. Most of the time the goal is to keep the tree hooked to the uphill side of the stump untill the tree is fully in the face side to side and the face is closed as you can see this funky cedar is ............ It,s not easy keeping an old cedar on the stump this long .....Without the Siswheel , I would have lost it into the standing timber .....
 
They are good for sliding the butt onto the deck fast arenth they?

I think you might be thinking of a "snipe" or "kicker"? Here is the best pic I have of one:

fallingwithcody38.jpg


A snipe will help to get the butt of the tree on the ground in shorter order than not having one at all, and is a good technique to have in your repertoire.
 
Wow, great pictures. I would take some of my buddy's logging operation, but you guys my die laughing. lol The bark on the tree's your cutting is thicker than some of our trees in in soutern wv. lol. I'll still get some pics. if you promise not to laugh.
Harvey
 
What are the differences in how wide the kerf is and how deep the face or snipe is?

I would think a big kerf or box cut with a small snipe would kind of chuck the tree off and away of the stump.

Whereas a narrow kerf and a deep steep face would get the butt to slip right off the stump and hit the deck.

Am I close on that?

I have used dutchmans with a big face and small a narrow kerf leaving 2 or 3 inches of shelf shelf on trees that will be coming in contact with standing timber so they can roll and do as they wish.

I Cut a big red oak up hill and used a box cut with a snipe on top and bottom to try and keep it from going down hill.

I wish I could experiment more but these small east coast trees are too small..

I am also curious about a siswheel, I have seen one example. im guessing it allows the holding wood to flex and not break as soon while the tree goes down. mabe?
 
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What are the differences in how wide the kerf is and how deep the face or snipe is?

I would think a big kerf or box cut with a small snipe would kind of chuck the tree off and away of the stump.

Whereas a narrow kerf and a deep steep face would get the butt to slip right off the stump and hit the deck.

Am I close on that?

You are close on that...theoretically speaking. I have been around a lot of timber fallers, and the "jumping trees" discussion has always been perplexing for me, because I have tried countless different times and methods to do it, and my conclusion is that it all boils down to how strong the wood fibers are that are in the hinge wood and how they hold on when the top cut makes contact with the bottom cut. In my experience if the fibers are tougher, you get more of a snap and consequently more of a jump out of the tree, and never really seemed to matter as to the type of notch, unless you are talking a very wide open face where the tree is almost to the ground before top and bottom cuts make contact. The only cut that I ever was able to get much action out of when it came to jumping a tree (remember, imho, the wood fibers have to be tough to get a good pull, and snap) was to cut a full face dutchman, or a kerf all the way across the face determined by the size of the tree. Hope all this makes sense...I know when guys get to talking about their methods on here it all confuses me:confused:

I Cut a big red oak up hill and used a box cut with a snipe on top and bottom to try and keep it from going down hill.

So were you trying to hold the tree on the stump and keep it from sliding down the hill?

I am also curious about a siswheel, I have seen one example. im guessing it allows the holding wood to flex and not break as soon while the tree goes down. mabe?

A sezwheel(not sure how it is spelled but this is how I always pronounced it) is only on one half of the holding wood, so picture a square humboldt like this:

scan0003-1.jpg


On one half of an undercut, paired with a normal humboldt on the other half. You are correct that the idea is to get more flex, or more action out of your holding wood especially when swinging a tree with a dutchman. I use it a lot around here when I am cutting big cottonwoods, and I used it a lot when I was falling timber professionally. The next time I do one I will try to remember to snap some pics!:cheers:
 
For the red oak yes,

It wasent a very steep grade but figured that I would try and use my head to see if I could get my two snipes to meet and hold.

My little illustration is as close as I can get.
 
For the red oak yes,

It wasent a very steep grade but figured that I would try and use my head to see if I could get my two snipes to meet and hold.

My little illustration is as close as I can get.

Looks like you have got the right Idea. :) When I was falling timber in the redwoods, If I was falling a tree up the hill using a square humboldt(usually only used square humboldt on redwoods cuz they are so dang brittle, esp. on the stump, so you need to get as much out of the holding wood as possible) a lot of times you would want it to stay on the stump to get a little more lift(usually you want a redwood butt on the ground)to get over a hump and try to save it out a little better, so you would use a scarf on the top(your picture minus the snipe on the stump, at least that is how I always knew it...snipe on bottom, scarf on top)and generally it would hug the stump fairly good, better for others than myself cuz I was a greenhorn redwood faller! Wish I had pictures of a tree that a co-worker and the bullbuck fell up the hill...not only did it lift the butt over a hump up the hill it hooked on the very corner of the stump and stuck there...needless to say, the ground was about 75-80%, and the bull buck gets on the downhill side to buck the far wood of the butt-cut:jawdrop:the whole dang tree was hanging by that one little corner! That guy had some big cajones! He was also one of the best fallers that I have ever know, so he knew what he could get away with.
 
I bet it was somthing falling timber in the redwood forests.
You have lots of great knowledge I wish I could soak up.

What are the odds of snagging a job like that these days?

It was awesome to get in on a little redwood action, which I think now is getting fairly well locked up, so probably fairly tough to get a job there?:cry:Thanks for your compliments but I wish that some of the fallers that I looked up to would get on this site...they are the ones that I learned from and have a lot more knowledge than myself to soak up.
 
Cody does a good job of describing and has Lots better pics than me ........ ..
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. The only garrenteed way I know of to get a tree to go flying off the stump , is with a round length of steel so the tree actually rolls off the stump.. Handloggers used to use them to get them to fly out off a bluff ... Problem was with keeping the thing once the tree left the stump ... And who was going to pack it up the mountain ........
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. I don,t know what a box cut is , But sometimes when I,m cutting up the side of a draw and want to keep my timber in lead with the draw , but relativly level , I will double gun the Humbolt .... It helps with limb drift ...
.1 Put in your Humbolt face gunned to the lay you want ,
2 half way down the humbolt , bore all the way across with the power head level bar verticle . this verticle cut I gun higher on the side or the draw . I cut down enough so the tree can close on this second face and saw the 2nd face out ..... Some guys call this a kicker face ..........As it helps to kick the top up the hill ..... I just call it double gunning .....

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. I use a Siswheel on anything soft , funky , or brittle .... Frozen timber ,,. Cotton wood , Silver Poplar , Red Alder , Rotten, and healthy Cedar , both Red and Yellow ....Rotten Hemlocks ... Mountain Hemlock . All can be swung further with a Siswheel ... But you NEED TO BE ABLE TO GET YOU AND YOUR SAW AWAY FROM THE STUMP WHEN USING ONE ....... THEY PULL ROOTS AND SOMETIMES A GOOD PART OF THE STUMP .........
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. One last thing , You can really create some big problems for your self with a full face dutchman , so you really want to make sure you have a good face in the tree or stump ... Take a little extra time to actually bend down and look, and if it isn,t right , make it so before you start on the back cut ...... It,s faster in the long run ..
 
He did get that tree across the road ... , He could have walked it around real well ....
. . I would have fell it quite a bit differently . For some reason he used a Saginaw face ???????????? he didn,t have any dutchman on the low side and he had holding wood on the low side of the stump .....
. Most of the time when you are swinging timber , ya don,t just ( Ho Close and Go ) .
. You walk the tree around into the face then get out of the way ...... Step dutchmen work well for leading a tree around by the nose .. He also didn,t leave much holding wood on the up hill side ....... But , he,s doin ok . just needs some more learnin , Which we all do !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks for postin the links ..... I like to bullbuck these guys !!!!!:hmm3grin2orange::D:hmm3grin2orange:
 
I noticed that he had alot of wood on the low side.

Saginaw face eh? whats that? i dont know if he was trying to swing that tree or not, what caught mu attension was the s---wheel...
 
I noticed that he had alot of wood on the low side.

Saginaw face eh? whats that?

Another name for a conventional undercut...at least that is how I always said it. I thought the guy in the video looked like he definitely has skills...and a very good display of a sezwheel. I have a couple of different variations that I use and next time I use one I will try to remember to snap some pics.
 

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