Felling advice - split & hung up

[bbxlr8]

I've done some pruning and hornet nest removal with a 12 gauge. If it's safe to shoot there, a shotgun slug, duck/goose/turkey load, deer rifle or magnum handgun could do the trick!

Yes, it's clear and I shoot regularly... Actually have a target area set into a hollow part of the hill as well.

I really was hoping that there was some safe way to cut it down. I have never had one like this though.

Thinking that my order of attack is going to be:

1. Rope puller to the Y @90'
2. Rope pull to the split section only - low & @180' away from the lean.
3. Last - Use power out of the list above (prob Kubota) to pull at a distance 'til it frees or breaks the intertwined part.

Unless, anyone wants to bring the explosives!
Will keep you posted

 

[Mad Professor]

It's not that thick, I think a stout line way up and yanked sideways to the break would get it down.

 

[Billhook]

Ratchet strap the split tight to stop it splitting any further. Maybe tie a line to three other trunks to stop it slipping sideways. It looks well hung up at the top so from the safety of my observation post about 4000 miles away, here in the UK, I would then cut as much of the remaining trunk as possible without going right through with a small chainsaw and if it does go through and the tree sits on the blade just take the body off. Either way you should be able. to drag the tree out from the bottom away from the lean with a tractor and long line. A safety cab is always a good insurance policy in woodland where branches falling from a height can give you a headache

 

[NRA_guy]

It's not that thick, I think a stout line way up and yanked sideways to the break would get it down.

Just curious: How would y'all attach a line way up in the tree?

 

[bbxlr8]

I have several throw lines and throw bag weights and do it "old school" without a slingshot etc. I leave about 2 ft and pendulum it in an arc. It's a trade-off between getting it up there and enough weight to pull the line through and back down - Takes a bit of practice. You use that line to pull your heavy rope up. Sure beats a tall ladder and can safely go higher than my tallest 32'

The lines are strong/light and slick. the bags are of various weights and filled with metal shot type beads - I am sure it used to be lead but no idea now?

Available at most tree supply sources - check Baily's for example

 

[NRA_guy]

I have several throw lines and throw bag weights and do it "old school" without a slingshot etc. I leave about 2 ft and pendulum it in an arc. It's a trade-off between getting it up there and enough weight to pull the line through and back down - Takes a bit of practice. You use that line to pull your heavy rope up. Sure beats a tall ladder and can safely go higher than my tallest 32'

The lines are strong/light and slick. the bags are of various weights and filled with metal shot type beads - I am sure it used to be lead but no idea now?

Available at most tree supply sources - check Baily's for example

Thanks. That's pretty much what I thought. My throwing arm is not very accurate or strong.

I did mount a fishing reel with heavy monofilament on a slingshot to try (for pulling a heavier rope over), but the dead limb fell before I got around to try it.

And that's a good thing!

 

[GrizG]

Thanks. That's pretty much what I thought. My throwing arm is not very accurate or strong.

I did mount a fishing reel with heavy monofilament on a slingshot to try (for pulling a heavier rope over), but the dead limb fell before I got around to try it.

And that's a good thing!

I've used a sling shot and fishing pole to get a line up in a tree... The biggest benefit was I could aim the weight and sneak it between branches to get the line just where I wanted it. Second biggest benefit was I could shoot it much higher than I could throw it. I have used .69 caliber musket balls and .429 lead bullets for weight.

 

[Stihl User]

Hi all - I need some advice and have learned so much from you all over the years increasing my skills in bringing down trees safely and effectively. I have done many against the lean, on target around difficult obstacles, OR majorly hung, and am comfortable with almost anything but climbing! I do spend time thinking it through and am fortunate that I don't have to do stuff in a hurry.

A recent wind storm split this cherry and it got caught in another really nice one. I don't like the look of the stresses in it (obviously). IMO - my best alternative is to throw a long line to the Y split and pull it 180' to the good tree with either with my Maasdam puller or very likely my tractor and it should come down. I could chain/strap it together, but it is sure to kick out so I don't think cutting or sectioning it down is an option as it sits.

I would like your thoughts...Thanks!
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I can tell you the best and safest way but then I would have to kill ya.

 

[bbxlr8]

An old tree guy "showed me the ropes" and I have followed his lead since. There are a lot of times when you are NOT going to toss it like a baseball; even if you are a major league caliber arm (def. NOT me).

FYI I do not do this for a living and have only done my own stuff, but I'll try to describe.

• Pile enough line to get up/down loosely off to your side. You don't want to lose momentum in straightening & tangling.
• I get more height w/back to the target. Use gloves, and about grab 2/3 feet line to a pendulum motion. You can also go forward with a bowling motion releasing late but I don't get it as high this way.
• Several warm-ups forward & back to get momentum & smooth movement...
• Time the release & arc. The clearer path to the Y or any solid branch to pull over the better. You can get pretty high up this way. Luck & persistence help!
• Good knot & rope tying skills are plus. I was a boy scout but this is a great refresher https://www.animatedknots.com/basic-knots

 

[bbxlr8]

I can tell you the best and safest way but then I would have to kill ya.

The goal is not to get killed or maimed!

 

[rwoods]

Yes, it's clear and I shoot regularly... Actually have a target area set into a hollow part of the hill as well.

I really was hoping that there was some safe way to cut it down. I have never had one like this though.

Thinking that my order of attack is going to be:

1. Rope puller to the Y @90'
2. Rope pull to the split section only - low & @180' away from the lean.
3. Last - Use power out of the list above (prob Kubota) to pull at a distance 'til it frees or breaks the intertwined part.

Unless, anyone wants to bring the explosives!
Will keep you posted

Not sure if you mean feet or degrees; nonetheless, since you have a tractor (hopefully one of sufficient size) get a stout rope in the "Y" and at a safe distance pull the top away and down from the save tree until it snaps.

That tree looks like it has been partially cut. Has it? If not, is the base rotten? Either way don't spend time around it.

Ron

 

[JimR]

If that was my tree I'd get my tractor out with the logging winch and pull that broken tree back 180 off of the good Cherry. End of problem.

 

[bbxlr8]

Thanks again all.

That is the unusual part - that tree was not cut and by all indications beforehand fully alive.
Definitely bad... but not obvious from the outside until the split

 

[Stihl User]

Thanks again all.

That is the unusual part - that tree was not cut and by all indications beforehand fully alive.
Definitely bad... but not obvious from the outside until the split

Dig under the stump a little, place a stick of dynamite in there and that will take care of the stump and the tree in on shot.

 

[bbxlr8]

Done, Down & Lessons Learned: This relatively little tree ended up being a royal pain in the tail ( it is about 75' tall though...) Didn't get a chance to get at it over the weekend. Today was nice after work so I got geared up to git 'er done. Ended up not being my best work or proudest moment, but it is safely on the ground and I thought I'd share the good, bad and ugly. Thanks again for the advice.

Plan A: Throwline hits the Y on the first throw. OK now; don't get cocky I am thinking to myself... Hauled up my long line and tried the rope puller. It stood it up real nice as it came out of the intertwined branch. Tried to ease it down and let gravity do the job - No joy.

Plan B: Slacked off the tension on the high long line. Tied another line to what appears to be the weakest part 90 degrees to the lean and bring out the Kubota. It should be easy so I go ahead and tie off to the base of the BH boom - bad plan - promptly break the rope. There is that lesson about how the rating of rope goes down when you tie it, that or the edge was a factor OR just a just too much pull.
I can't get a good pull straight away (180 deg) from the lean so I break out the big saw while it is tied up & shouldn't be able to kick out. Gingerly reach in and cut some of the strap down low at the level of the original break. Looking good and nothing is moving so I hit it a bit more, this time on the downhill side... aaand went that smidge too far and pinched the blade - Definitely NO joy!

Plan C: - Pull the head and leave the blade & chain. Adjust the low line up to the split area on the "weakest link" and down properly on the drawbar. NOT a freaking chance! - Damn, that wood is strong on that side. After more yanks than I care to admit, it eventually gives way and bends over like and starts to come down. THEN it hangs up high in another downhill tree 30 feet away BENT over about @6 ft up in the air. Oh, sh#/! I wish I snapped a pic in hindsight but getting more than a bit frazzled now by this stinking tree. Time to step back, take a deep breath, and reassess.

Plan D: - Decide to tie up yet another line to the main part of the barber chair split and pull at 90 deg. to rip it apart. YEA right... It splits more and rolls like it's going to, but that darn cherry is stringy like a bow - it comes off the base some... At this point, I have three lines on it, slightly tension it with the tractor, and decide to break out my smaller saw to hopefully finish the job. Reach in up higher from WAY off to the far side to cut SOME of the tendons; then back to the tractor for the coup de grace at a distance.

As it turns out, the lower outer ring area at the original break was the only soft part- the rest of the tree is super solid and live. It smells GREAT; like the actual fruit - nice & red.
The silver lining is it will replenish my smoking wood stock!

 

[Bearcreek]

Done, Down & Lessons Learned:

What were the lessons learned?

 

[bbxlr8]

What were the lessons learned?

1. Not getting the saw stuck for one
2. Tie off/up correctly & use the proper rope/chain
3. In hindsight, I would have gone to the big saw when it was standing up straight and never brought out the tractor - KISS principle

All in all - way too much messing around and making it more dangerous at each point.

 

[Bearcreek]

1. Tie off/up correctly & use the proper rope/chain

What kind of rope and knot did you use?

 

[GrizG]

Plan B: Slacked off the tension on the high long line. Tied another line to what appears to be the weakest part 90 degrees to the lean and bring out the Kubota. It should be easy so I go ahead and tie off to the base of the BH boom - bad plan - promptly break the rope. There is that lesson about how the rating of rope goes down when you tie it, that or the edge was a factor OR just a just too much pull.
I can't get a good pull straight away (180 deg) from the lean so I break out the big saw while it is tied up & shouldn't be able to kick out. Gingerly reach in and cut some of the strap down low at the level of the original break. Looking good and nothing is moving so I hit it a bit more, this time on the downhill side... aaand went that smidge too far and pinched the blade - Definitely NO joy!

Sounds like a snatch block to redirect the pull angle would have been helpful. That type of equipment is part of our kit when we're doing hazard tree removal on the rail trails... we can only pull north or south from the trail so any other direction requires the snatch block.

 

[bbxlr8]

I use a bowline knot when pulling high - allows it to travel up and still be able to untie when done.

Rope supply is rigging line that I can run through the Maasdam puller so still relatively light in the grand scheme of things. It's Samson 1/2" three-strand rated at 5,700.

Need to get synthetic like they use on the winches now!