One reason why if you are dropping trees you don't get a saw with a outboard clutch!! That is a deal breaker for me. CJ
I have a 150' long piece of 1/2" Amsteel that has a thimble on each end. The end that goes on the tractor has chain and a hook, the other end has a heavy clevis that I use. threaded part of the clevis goes through the thimble, the body of the clevis goes around the rope. I have the last 8'-10' of the rope wrapped with an anti-chafe sleeve. It doesn't stretch, and it's STRONG. I have no fear of breaking it, the 65hp 4wd JD will spin the tires before the rope breaks. I bought a big bull rope, a large stainless steel pulley and can use that to direct the pull in any direction - I don't need a straight pull with the tractor.I use a bowline knot when pulling high - allows it to travel up and still be able to untie when done.
Rope supply is rigging line that I can run through the Maasdam puller so still relatively light in the grand scheme of things. It's Samson 1/2" three-strand rated at 5,700.
Need to get synthetic like they use on the winches now!
well... I don't know who started this cut, but punch them in the squishy bits for me.Hi all - I need some advice and have learned so much from you all over the years increasing my skills in bringing down trees safely and effectively. I have done many against the lean, on target around difficult obstacles, OR majorly hung, and am comfortable with almost anything but climbing! I do spend time thinking it through and am fortunate that I don't have to do stuff in a hurry.
A recent wind storm split this cherry and it got caught in another really nice one. I don't like the look of the stresses in it (obviously). IMO - my best alternative is to throw a long line to the Y split and pull it 180' to the good tree with either with my Maasdam puller or very likely my tractor and it should come down. I could chain/strap it together, but it is sure to kick out so I don't think cutting or sectioning it down is an option as it sits.
I would like your thoughts...Thanks!
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I appreciate all of this.well... I don't know who started this cut, but punch them in the squishy bits for me.
Explosives are fun..., but probably not going to help with this unless you have a clue about shaped charges. Tannerite is alright and all, but its really not very good at this sort of thing, Det cord is better, but much harder to source... (involves some inappropriate touching by the ATF, and their not even friendly about it YOU HAVE TO BUY THEM DINNER WTF)
So to solve this, some ******* needs to finish cutting it off the stump, I suggest a fast saw and a long bar with good running shoes, but first at least put the attempt of a face cut in it, even just a kerf at this point, then dust off the back side being ready to run screaming at any minute.
once its free, if it doesn't fall on its own, THIS PART IS IMPORTANT, hook a chain/choker to the bottom, AS LOW AS POSSIBLE, so that it wants to roll the stem and slide the butt out and away from the tree its hung up in, use a lot of rope, more rope then tree so that if it does flip on you, you are well out of stomping range, use a good heavy 4x4 truck or a good strong winch.
there are a whole slew of folks that have/will tell you to hook a rope up high, this guarantees that the tree falls over, and towards the pulling vehicle/poor SOB driving said vehicle, its far better, and easier really, to pull the bottom out and let the big dangerous part fall AWAY FROM YOU.
As for my original point of violence to the smelly parts... had someone put a face cut in this tree, and actually took the time to aim it and fall it even remotely properly, this likely wouldn't be an issue.
(Edit to add pictures of the tree - post cutting off the stub)But we wanted to see you use TNT.
Curious, could you have used the same equipment and pulled it down from the bottom?
Ron
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