Felling in Connecticut

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Seems like an awful lot of work pushing that saw around backwards and against the rotation of the chain when there's two perfectly good dawgs there for leverage in the other direction... even IF he insists on boring to set the hinge. I'll never get that nuance of GOL falling. Just seems like good Newtonian physics gone to waste.
 
Seems like an awful lot of work pushing that saw around backwards and against the rotation of the chain when there's two perfectly good dawgs there for leverage in the other direction... even IF he insists on boring to set the hinge. I'll never get that nuance of GOL falling. Just seems like good Newtonian physics gone to waste.

Yup...a lot of extra work for nothing. Speaking of which, I'm headed up the hill. You kids play nice, now.
 
The mills here want a straight cut on the butt log and as much of it as possible. Wasted wood is frowned on.

That must be why every tree I see cut out west has a tail pulled out as it leaves the stump?

[video=youtube;-Wgpn_xV0qc]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Wgpn_xV0qc&t=3m19s[/video]

[video=youtube;1ThpyhxD64c]http://youtu.be/qzxscW64bb0?t=34s[/video]

[video=youtube;sZVTuCTM9bI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sZVTuCTM9bI&t=1m42s[/video]

[video=youtube;qzxscW64bb0]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qzxscW64bb0&t=34s[/video]
 
Lol you guys really get goin. Im not trying to say the humboldt dosent work or any thing like that, its been around long enough to have proven its self as the go-to way to fell on the west coast. Im saying its something that is not used around here because it dosent work as well on our timber. If it did I would think it would be used, as for the GOL I will never tell ya its the only way or that its better than your way, it is just a training organization trying to promote safer logging practices.
 
Lol you guys really get goin. Im not trying to say the humboldt dosent work or any thing like that, its been around long enough to have proven its self as the go-to way to fell on the west coast. Im saying its something that is not used around here because it dosent work as well on our timber. If it did I would think it would be used, as for the GOL I will never tell ya its the only way or that its better than your way, it is just a training organization trying to promote safer logging practices.

Good reply. There are several variations on the Humboldt that might work for you but I understand what you mean about using what works. And what you're comfortable with.

As far as GOL goes..the main thing we have against it is the way they present it as an absolute guarantee that the tree will do exactly what you want it to do. The trees don't read the book.
The bore cut is a good tool to have, I've used it on head leaners...but in our timber it's generally too slow and doesn't offer any real advantage.

East vs. West...it goes on forever. :smile2:
 
Good reply. There are several variations on the Humboldt that might work for you but I understand what you mean about using what works. And what you're comfortable with.

As far as GOL goes..the main thing we have against it is the way they present it as an absolute guarantee that the tree will do exactly what you want it to do. The trees don't read the book.
The bore cut is a good tool to have, I've used it on head leaners...but in our timber it's generally too slow and doesn't offer any real advantage.

East vs. West...it goes on forever. :smile2:

But it wasn't presented as that. Not at all. Maybe they put on a different version here. Maybe I interpreted it differently than others. No mention was made that the tree will do exactly as you want it to do. In fact, we usually just gunned the trees to the way they wanted to go--Except the LOGGER I worked with had to swing one around, and I had to be there to assist. That's scary when it is somebody out of the blue and you know nothing of their skill level. :eek2:

It was a safety class, and was geared for beginners like me. There is another level class, but I don't consider myself as needing or doing more, until I cut a heck of a lot more trees. I don't think that is going to happen.
 
Dunno...the GOL people I've had dealings with, and worked with, were very rigid in their methodology. The trees weren't falling where their training said they would and they blamed the resultant mess on the trees. They wouldn't change their tactics. I traded them in at lunch time for a couple of guys who didn't have formal training...just real-world experience.

I had a PM discussion with one of our Eastern brethren and he said that GOL taught him that by using their methods he was sure to get satisfactory results. It took him a couple of close calls before he found out that what he was taught doesn't always work every time.

Maybe your class toned down the GOL dogma. They've been trying to establish a foothold out here for a long time and haven't met with much success.
 
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DogMa

7632_103741842969642_100000014805212_101858_3245525_n.jpg
 
Yea level 1 is kinda a joke. . . .like as in this is how to file a chain and basic stuff but its meant for small land owners/home owner types. level 2 gets in to hazard trees things like spring poles, top locks, trees with funky lean and proper felling to reduce hazards. 3+4 are all about production and job lay out and saving out high quality wood.

When I took the classes I went into them with a pretty crappy attitude and I didn't get much of any thing out of it save for a few things like some tricks for spring poles. But eventually I started to try out some of their ideas and some work great some not so much. I like to TRY to keep an open mind for the most part.

off topic but any one know if the new wild ass pants are like the old ones?
 
fooey.

I think all of the sensible ones more or less agree, without agreeing.

Atleast in southern appalachia, GOL advances have worked to lessen faller fatality or work ending injury becasue its the latest thing since, say, stumpjumpin, the side band swarp notch, and other unfunctional or altogether lacking hinge concepts.

I'll be one to say again that it is a good foundation. Foundation is step one for a new faller. Esp. if hes isolated and has nobody worth a #### to train him all the nuances as he goes but is sent out there day 1 to get some wood. I prefer Randy's dogma though.

the video showed how that guy "boxed out" the tree. a little excessive. different trees call for different measures. you can humbolt anything. you do run a greater chance of fiber pull or busting with some trees than others, where you would not have any of this with the openface bore cut- like white oak and hickory. Maple, ash, poplar, cherry, red oak, basswood, cucumber, etc., these do fine with a closed face as with the humboldt. Knowing what to use when to optimize your production is what its all about.
 
Once again Hammer, that voice of reason! Come on, White oak and hickory can get a humboldt too! You just have to be a little... "creative." You're right though, production is the bottom line.

Tools in the tool box.

The bull#### mindset of hardwood country.

The thought of letting someone cut for me some day scares the #### out of me, especially if they had no type of training. I'd make them follow me around for about a week while I cut and even then I'm not sure if I could turn them loose. I've personally never had any kind of training. I've never even cut with someone who really knows what they are doing. Ok I've read a couple of books and picked some brains on here. The rest has just come from making a lot of stumps and observations. Physics. What I can and can't do. What I can get away with. Common sense. That and the triggering of an unstoppable train of events that sends you running for your life. I generally learn (earn) things the hard way.
 
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Once again Hammer, that voice of reason! Come on, White oak and hickory can get a humboldt too! You just have to be a little... "creative." You're right though, production is the bottom line.

Tools in the tool box.

The bull#### mindset of hardwood country.

The thought of letting someone cut for me some day scares the #### out of me, especially if they had no type of training. I'd make them follow me around for about a week while I cut and even then I'm not sure if I could turn them loose. I've personally never had any kind of training. I've never even cut with someone who really knows what they are doing. Ok I've read a couple of books and picked some brains on here. The rest has just come from making a lot of stumps and observations. Physics. What I can and can't do. What I can get away with. Common sense. That and the triggering of an unstoppable train of events that sends you running for your life. I generally learn (earn) things the hard way.



Teaching somebody to fall can be nerve wracking. I've taught some guys and, mostly due to their good attitude, they came out alright. But you still wonder sometimes if you told them enough and showed them enough.

What you said about "common sense" is true. That's half the job. Learning something from your mistakes is key, too.

There are less and less young guys that want to be fallers. And less jobs for them, too. With so much mechanical cutting we always seem to have an over-supply of fallers around here and some guys have left the business altogether. A guy with some skills, a good reputation, and some connections can still make a pretty good living but a guy just starting out will have a hard go of it.

If you hire a faller you'll need to remember that they'll never ever do it just exactly the same way you do. That's not necessarily bad and if their results are good and they're doing the job you just have to let them go about things their own way. It's hard to do, though.
 
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Teaching somebody to fall can be nerve wracking. I've taught some guys and, mostly due to their good attitude, they came out alright. But you still wonder sometimes if you told them enough and showed them enough.

What you said about "common sense" is true. That's half the job. Learning something from your mistakes is key, too.

There are less and less young guys that want to be fallers. And less jobs for them, too. With so much mechanical cutting we always seem to have an over-supply of fallers around here and some guys have left the business altogether. A guy with some skills, a good reputation, and some connections can still make a pretty good living but a guy just starting out will have a hard go of it.

If you hire a faller you'll need to remember that they'll never ever do it just exactly the same way you do. That's not necessarily bad and if their results are good and they're doing the job you just have to let them go about things their own way. It's hard to do, though.

I'll bet its tough to send someone out there. Even if they have cut for a while. I'm not planning on having anyone cut for me for sometime, but I've been talking with my cousin about skidding for me. When he can't skid though he'd probably want to cut. I had him play around with the machine one day at my last job and I showed him a 4' dbh red oak that I'd be cutting soon after. He wanted to know how I would get that thing down. My uncle says he can cut. I kinda laughed when he said it, not to be an a-hole, but theres a big difference in just cutting trees and getting them to lay out. The majority of his cutting experience has involved an excavator as his wedge. I could never just turn him loose with a saw. No way. There are just way to many things that could happen and will.
 
Seems like a typical faller from around here. Except, rarely do you see a guy go in the woods around here with more than one wedge.

As far as the scale being knocked down because of the face, we have never been scaled "down" due to having a face cut visible in the scaled wood.


As far as Humboldt versus conventional notches; I use what works, what I'm comfortable with at the moment and what fits the bill. Humboldt becomes standard when cutting pine for me, why I dont really know. It works, "feels" faster than a conventional, and usually I'm stuck in the steeps working where dad doesnt want to cut!


As far as the tree in the video, our boss would have a FIT over cutting the bell off like that. Alot quicker and less cutting to simply "snip" the corners of the hinge. Heres what I mean using a conventional notch. Make the top cut, make the bottom cut, before heading for the back cut, follow the bottom cut around and snip the hinge in about 1-1/2" to 2" on each side. A tree that size I would take a slight step towards the far side, line my bar up with the "snip" made and lett'er sing. Couple extra steps with you feet, as my saw passes through the back (directly behind the notch) set a wedge (if the skidder isn't there or I feel the need to "control" it more) and continue with the cut. Typically as I'm getting closer to finishing the back cut or can "feel" the tree moving, set the wedge in better and finish the cut. When I'm happy with the hinge wood left, then commence to giving the wedge a few love taps.


Just my worthless couple of shiny's.

Happy Cutting!
 
My apologies. I have been working late in the evenings at home to get some projects done and I had failed to remember this thread.

I guess I had missed HBRN's video the first time around. I'm glad I did. I only got through the first two minutes of it before closing the window and coming back here. Now, you can't fault a guy for posting a vid. of himself. But, you can fault him when it becomes clear, as in HBRN's case, his skill level isn't what he said it is. This became apparent when watching the vid.

I am no pro. But, if I were to post a vid. of myself after talking like one, I'd make sure it was a little more accurate at demonstrating my proficiency.
 

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