Felling poll - Have your say

[MCW]

I'm not gonna jump on the bandwagon of individual name calling etc but I will say this.

Arborists tend to do aerial tree work extremely well and kudos to them. At my size (6'3" and 115kg) I am not built for tree climbing nor do I have the balls, time, or affection for it. If I get asked to do any domestic tree jobs I evaluate the risk first and if a tree can be dropped from the ground and not hit anything (eg: a 7m tree in a 5m backyard is a problem!) I will drop it. I haven't wrecked anything yet. I am certainly not afraid to pass the customer on to my area's only qualified Arborist business (Riverland High Works) if aerial work is involved. They do an excellent job but have a fleet of about 5 high lift trucks now - the owner rarely climbs trees anymore as far as I know. Any serious tree felling business that does not have some form of high lift mechanical truck etc is not that serious in my book OR chooses to do work that the other's won't touch. By the way, I do not class myself as a serious tree felling business despite dropping a lot of trees.

However...

One thing I notice is that qualified arborists that are used to aerial work CONTINUOUSLY overcomplicate things at ground level. What experienced ground fellers would class as easy takes two pages or 30 minutes to explain from an Arborist. Some of the gimmicky cuts I have seen to justify using a wedge were done on trees so small they could be easily pushed over with one hand. I have seen numerous videos of arborists cutting trees at ground level that just look plain uncomfortable. Get them in a tree in a harness 40' up and they are unreal to watch but at ground level they generally seem to take 2 hours to do a 10 minute job. I'm sure many will say it is because they are being careful but when I see videos of qualified Arborists felling a 12" tree with a pull line and absolutely running for their lives when that tree starts falling (away from them mind you) with no interlocked canopies I can't help but laugh. It screams inexperience and a lack of confidence (at ground level) to me.

Although getting a bit off topic it's also important to realise that a lot of people on the internet masquerade as some high profile business when in fact they are nothing more than a one man and a donkey operation. I have no trouble with people knowing I operate my chainsaw/tree business after hours from an extension on the house I live in. There is no shopfront or fancy signs. My business card on this post may suggest that I have an annual turnover of $200k. That is certainly not the case at all. I have a well paying full time job as a Senior Agronomist and am also involved in a family Curtain and Blind business. I do very little advertising with my business but know it has a lot more potential if only I had the time to put into it.
I'm sure that some of the guys on here fit into the one man and a donkey category despite talking like a $10 million operation. I know one member here that certainly does.

 

[treevet]

I'm not gonna jump on the bandwagon of individual name calling etc but I will say this.

Arborists tend to do aerial tree work extremely well and kudos to them. At my size (6'3" and 115kg) I am not built for tree climbing nor do I have the balls, time, or affection for it. If I get asked to do any domestic tree jobs I evaluate the risk first and if a tree can be dropped from the ground and not hit anything (eg: a 7m tree in a 5m backyard is a problem!) I will drop it. I haven't wrecked anything yet. I am certainly not afraid to pass the customer on to my area's only qualified Arborist business (Riverland High Works) if aerial work is involved. They do an excellent job but have a fleet of about 5 high lift trucks now - the owner rarely climbs trees anymore as far as I know. Any serious tree felling business that does not have some form of high lift mechanical truck etc is not that serious in my book OR chooses to do work that the other's won't touch. By the way, I do not class myself as a serious tree felling business despite dropping a lot of trees.

However...

One thing I notice is that qualified arborists that are used to aerial work CONTINUOUSLY overcomplicate things at ground level. What experienced ground fellers would class as easy takes two pages or 30 minutes to explain from an Arborist. Some of the gimmicky cuts I have seen to justify using a wedge were done on trees so small they could be easily pushed over with one hand. I have seen numerous videos of arborists cutting trees at ground level that just look plain uncomfortable. Get them in a tree in a harness 40' up and they are unreal to watch but at ground level they generally seem to take 2 hours to do a 10 minute job. I'm sure many will say it is because they are being careful but when I see videos of qualified Arborists felling a 12" tree with a pull line and absolutely running for their lives when that tree starts falling (away from them mind you) with no interlocked canopies I can't help but laugh. It screams inexperience and a lack of confidence (at ground level) to me.

Although getting a bit off topic it's also important to realise that a lot of people on the internet masquerade as some high profile business when in fact they are nothing more than a one man and a donkey operation. I have no trouble with people knowing I operate my chainsaw/tree business after hours from an extension on the house I live in. There is no shopfront or fancy signs. My business card on this post may suggest that I have an annual turnover of $200k. That is certainly not the case at all. I have a well paying full time job as a Senior Agronomist and am also involved in a family Curtain and Blind business. I do very little advertising with my business but know it has a lot more potential if only I had the time to put into it.
I'm sure that some of the guys on here fit into the one man and a donkey category despite talking like a $10 million operation. I know one member here that certainly does.

Not sure just what you are saying.....Tree fellers (and some part time arborists like you) can drop a stick better than an arborist? Or just a below average arborist?

I think you inaccurately portray small tree services as not very profitable when I think sometimes they may be more profitable than million dollar companies (gross) when it comes to the bottom line. A million dollar company in our vicinity is about to go belly up likely because of the flagging economy and mass overhead.

 

[Burvol]

un safe my ass, guys used to climb 15 times that high in trees 20 times that size. They cut tops bigger than what you have cut in the last year i bet. They toted 100 lb blocks with 1 piece iron spirs. And a rope flip line around a 12 foot tree..


#### offfff!!!!!!

I agree. These guys crying about this dude's climb are funny. They don't know what a dangerous high climb is!

 

[ropensaddle]

I agree. These guys crying about this dude's climb are funny. They don't know what a dangerous high climb is!

Lol yup, I have forgotten about most of my hazardous climbs lol. I will say though, if they are being felled with real property and human life involved, rope is also involved:monkey:

 

[tree MDS]

Lol yup, I have forgotten about most of my hazardous climbs lol. I will say though, if they are being felled with real property and human life involved, rope is also involved:monkey:

I dont even own any wedges and I have always gotten along just fine....

Of course I have four different winches to play with also. lol.

 

[ropensaddle]

I dont even own any wedges and I have always gotten along just fine....

Of course I have four different winches to play with also. lol.

Mds wedges are valuable you need to get four plastic wedges like I have I use them and my winch sometimes. I also say they are the best thing for bucking a big log they keep or can get the saw outta pinch easier than anything made. They help on big wood in the tree too. I just am going to have rope or winch back-up during felling in urban settings.

 

[tree MDS]

Mds wedges are valuable you need to get four plastic wedges like I have I use them and my winch sometimes. I also say they are the best thing for bucking a big log they keep or can get the saw outta pinch easier than anything made. They help on big wood in the tree too. I just am going to have rope or winch back-up during felling in urban settings.

I have been thinking about getting some, just never get around to it.

I usually have the Deere around when dealing with big wood. I have on occasion left an arm on a big trunk and used the chipper winch to roll it over though - if its a wood stays job and the tractor isn't handy that is. You can roll a pretty beefy trunk with just the cable too if you can it get under the log... sometimes peavy assist is needed.

 

[ropensaddle]

I have been thinking about getting some, just never get around to it.

I usually have the Deere around when dealing with big wood. I have on occasion left an arm on a big trunk and used the chipper winch to roll it over though - if its a wood stays job and the tractor isn't handy that is. You can roll a pretty beefy trunk with just the cable too if you can it get under the log... sometimes peavy assist is needed.

Well yeah but a shop hammer and plastic wedge are easier to deploy. I drilled a hole in my shop hammer handle and put a loop of 1/4" cord so I can clip it on my saddle, same with wedges. If I am removing blocks up there big like 3 foot across those little wedges are invaluable imo.

 

[tree MDS]

Well yeah but a shop hammer and plastic wedge are easier to deploy. I drilled a hole in my shop hammer handle and put a loop of 1/4" cord so I can clip it on my saddle, same with wedges. If I am removing blocks up there big like 3 foot across those little wedges are invaluable imo.

I hear ya.... maybe I'll get some next time I see them. like i said, been meaning to anyway.

This comes down to the "more than one way to skin the cat" deal too though I suppose.

 

[treevet]

Well yeah but a shop hammer and plastic wedge are easier to deploy. I drilled a hole in my shop hammer handle and put a loop of 1/4" cord so I can clip it on my saddle, same with wedges. If I am removing blocks up there big like 3 foot across those little wedges are invaluable imo.

Solid twig bits that just squeeze into the cut are just as good as wedges on big blocks and you don't have to take them up there with you (they usually are already up there somewhere ) bark can be a last ditch substitute too.

 

[tree MDS]

Solid twig bits that just squeeze into the cut are just as good as wedges on big blocks and you don't have to take them up there with you (they usually are already up there somewhere ) bark can be a last ditch substitute too.

Yep. You can use a lot of stuff. I thought about using those little plastic wedges that they use to space the laminate flooring away from the walls. Its never really been enough of an issue to bother though.

 

[ropensaddle]

Lol how would I drive twigs or bark into the kerf? I am talking a large chunk usually notched and I drive the wedge in to help the one groundie get on over!

 

[treeclimber101]

Cheese and rice this thred is a pure train wreck ,I am truly starting to think your all facked up and I'm the only true sane one here , and what a thread it is, where we need to discuss removing a fifty foot tree , tree men you call yourselves laughable ....Oh and PS a twig is a great wedge and readily available, there always one around your foot somewhere, but ya can't teach commonsense..Maybe instead of JIMS TREE SERVICE franchise , you shoulda opened a SOUTH PHILLY PRETZEL FACTORY less experience needed

 

[ropensaddle]

Cheese and rice this thred is a pure train wreck ,I am truly starting to think your all facked up and I'm the only true sane one here , and what a thread it is, where we need to discuss removing a fifty foot tree , tree men you call yourselves laughable ....Oh and PS a twig is a great wedge and readily available, there always one around your foot somewhere, but ya can't teach commonsense..

That,s right them bushes you're a climbing make you sane I tell you what TC you reach fer your twig and I will unclip my wedge and hammer ready:monkey:

 

[tree MDS]

Lol how would I drive twigs or bark into the kerf? I am talking a large chunk usually notched and I drive the wedge in to help the one groundie get on over!

I think we are having a small error in communication is all (talking about, and responding to two separate things). I know you know you stuff rope.

I dont have any AQF points... but if there is one thing I've got figured out pretty damn good in this life, its how to cut a ####ing tree down. lol.

Doc looks like he's doing a pretty damn good job too.

 

[treevet]

Lol how would I drive twigs or bark into the kerf? I am talking a large chunk usually notched and I drive the wedge in to help the one groundie get on over!

If you are removing a huge chunk most often I slide them off rather than folding them over. Just cut down at an angle and keep them from pinching by the twigs inserted on both sides of the cut .....and when just about through the cut....gun the throttle a little and the whole works goes off of the stem....bar and piece and all. It is one of the secrets of my success. No gm, no wedges, no notch/scarf, wayyy less time.

You need a lot of practice to get good at it and you cannot have too high of a chunk or it may fold back over on you and there could be pain involved.

 

[ropensaddle]

I think we are having a small error in communication is all (talking about, and responding to two separate things). I know you know you stuff rope.

I dont have any AQF points... but if there is one thing I've got figured out pretty damn good in this life, its how to cut a ####ing tree down. lol.

Doc looks like he's doing a pretty damn good job too.

Yeah, I know we all know our stuff we have some disagreements and learn from them. I have yused twigs but I found something that takes less time and works very well for me. I don't take them up unless I need them though!

 

[ropensaddle]

If you are removing a huge chunk most often I slide them off rather than folding them over. Just cut down at an angle and keep them from pinching by the twigs inserted on both sides of the cut .....and when just about through the cut....gun the throttle a little and the whole works goes off of the stem....bar and piece and all. It is one of the secrets of my success. No gm, no wedges, no notch/scarf, wayyy less time.

You need a lot of practice to get good at it and you cannot have too high of a chunk or it may fold back over on you and there could be pain involved.

Ok I see our confusion here, I am meaning a 30"spar 12 foot six, tag line at top, wedge to assist the groundie! They call it timber here lol short wood mill takes 12foot six inch logs, I use the wedge to assist the groundie and make dern sure it don't come back on me.

 

[ropensaddle]

TV I have done the slide method for small large dia blocks too. Most times I just cut through them level and then push them off after tethering the saw.

 

[treevet]

If I am removing blocks up there big like 3 foot across those little wedges are invaluable imo.

this is what I was talking about Rope. Maybe 300 to 500 to 1000 lb plus chunks. They gotta slide more than get pushed