Yes sure thing,.. I agree about the magnet but my saws don't have bucking dogs so I wonder how well it will stay put.
Firewood Measuring Sticks
- Thread starter Philbert
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merc_man
Addicted to ArboristSite
I found it easyer to put marker out by end of bar. Walk along the log and make a quick little mark then pop off magnetic marking stick and start bucking. This way you dont have any extra bendong oer to mark them.
DavdH
ArboristSite Operative
I use a 50' Spencer tape,or any measuring tape, the little red diamonds are to lay out studs for construction, they are every 16". Mark with a lumber crayon. Lots of the time it is ocular estimation is just faster.
jr27236
Addicted to ArboristSite
Jeff- with the magnet it will stay unbelievably put, those rare earth magnets are unreal. I put mine nested in the dogs and didn't like it. I use mine like Mercman and put it out on the bar and tap my marks, remove and buck em up. No [emoji250] [emoji251] needed.
Rockjock
Addicted to ArboristSite
You can always go high tech ......
use a stihl laser 2 in 1
use a stihl laser 2 in 1
Gotta have it. Freekin laser beam on my saw....
Rockjock
Addicted to ArboristSite
I know right! I mean if you are gonna do it why not go all in LOL. I have seen this item work, and its pretty cool. Mind you my idea of the telescopic magnetic pick up will be added to the Jabroni © line of fine products for 2017.
Going to keep on using my eye . Sometimes use the bar
jr27236
Addicted to ArboristSite
Who's walking around with a 12' 2x4 lol. I mean that would definitely be good in a yard i suppose, but having the dodad on the bar tip move and tap is very easy when scrounging. I used it today on the small pile I had. Just walked around tapping out marks. Pulled it off and dissected the pile in no time.
You walk to scrounge wood? That's nuts!
I just leave the 2x4 in the flatbed, drop a tree back up to it take out the 2x4 and start bucking. Works perfect for my kind of scrounge, OP asked what we used to measure, so I told him what I use.
jr27236
Addicted to ArboristSite
I wasn't knocking it, for me that'd be very cumbersome. I only have a 6 foot bed dodge ram and a 1500 no less.
Different sticks for different kinds of of cutting.
I also do a lot of cutting 'in place' of limbs, etc. Very little cutting of full length logs.
Philbert
I also do a lot of cutting 'in place' of limbs, etc. Very little cutting of full length logs.
Philbert
Alignment
Although not a precision measuring tool, I do want to make the sticks somewhat straight.
On the version with the post magnet, I cut off and straightened a short section of the screwed in hook; just by chance it fit perfectly into the hollow, salvaged tent poles (including the metal ferrules) and will hold them straight while I epoxy a short tube around the joints.
For the version with a hole in the magnet, I needed a way to align the narrower fiberglass rod with the larger diameter bullet shell. I bored holes into some scrap wood approximately the same diameter as the shell, then cut the wood blocks in half on a bandsaw.
I wrapped masking tape around the rod until it was about the same diameter, and will clamp the assembly with some spring clamps while the epoxy sets.
Gotta love 'indigenous materials'!
Philbert
Although not a precision measuring tool, I do want to make the sticks somewhat straight.
On the version with the post magnet, I cut off and straightened a short section of the screwed in hook; just by chance it fit perfectly into the hollow, salvaged tent poles (including the metal ferrules) and will hold them straight while I epoxy a short tube around the joints.
For the version with a hole in the magnet, I needed a way to align the narrower fiberglass rod with the larger diameter bullet shell. I bored holes into some scrap wood approximately the same diameter as the shell, then cut the wood blocks in half on a bandsaw.
I wrapped masking tape around the rod until it was about the same diameter, and will clamp the assembly with some spring clamps while the epoxy sets.
Gotta love 'indigenous materials'!
Philbert
Here's a couple of vids on Euro measuring sticks
and this one at the 53 second mark
and this one at the 53 second mark
Problem with those Euro sticks is that they only measure in metric lengths . . .
Another method for the same goal. A few years back at a GTG we tried using something similar, that a member had made, using pieces of 1x2 wood and lumber crayons. The sticks in those videos look heavier duty.
Philbert
I'd guess at a measure of 1 meter which is about 39 inches .
Shorten it to 32" if you want 16's , eyeball the cut in the middle .
Shorten it to 32" if you want 16's , eyeball the cut in the middle .
Here's another version I saw yesterday (also a gratuitous opportunity to take a shot of a bow bar!)
This one has a nice end marker ('washer') that butts up against the end of the log, or drops into the last kerf marked, instead of relying on 'eyeing it up'. Comes in 16" - 24" sizes.
This one uses a steel rod, which I do not like, since it could accidentally come in contact with a moving chain, and get exciting. But the website describes a carbon fiber shaft, which would be lighter and safer - must be newer models.
Note that his videos also caution against using the measuring stick while cutting, recommending it for marking only.
http://www.acc-u-mark.com/
Philbert
This one has a nice end marker ('washer') that butts up against the end of the log, or drops into the last kerf marked, instead of relying on 'eyeing it up'. Comes in 16" - 24" sizes.
This one uses a steel rod, which I do not like, since it could accidentally come in contact with a moving chain, and get exciting. But the website describes a carbon fiber shaft, which would be lighter and safer - must be newer models.
Note that his videos also caution against using the measuring stick while cutting, recommending it for marking only.
http://www.acc-u-mark.com/
Philbert
(picking up where I left off: got distracted by other stuff - you know how that goes . . . ).
Glue up went pretty easy. I roughed up the fiberglass rods a bit with sandpaper, and cleaned the inside of the brass shell casings with a some ScotchBrite and a little acetone. The JB Weld is a bit thick for this; there is almost a hydraulic fit between the rods and the shell casings, so I had to 'work it in' to fill the space completely. I think that a thinner epoxy would be a better choice for this.
'Sleeve' / socket versions in the alignment blocks, L to R: post from white driveway marker, orange driveway marker, hollow tent pole
Note the (last minute) addition of plastic food wrap to prevent the possibility of gluing the fiberglass rods to the wood blocks with any excess epoxy!
Fini! The strips of reflective tape are to help find dropped sticks in the grass, snow, sawdust, etc. Some also mark out 14" and 12" lengths. Other lengths can be marked with temporary, masking tape flags, as noted above.
Reflectivity test, in our secret, subterranean, illumination laboratory . . .
Philbert
