Firewood Measuring Sticks

[dancan]

I just ran into one of these demons last weekend -- big mulberry tree. I've always said mulberry is a tree that knows not whether it's a tree or a bush. Some say its a first cousin to hedge, so I imagine we could add hedge (osage orange) to the list. But, hedge has thorns and big green fruit, so that relationship is suspect. Both drink water like fish in the spring.

I ended up with three truckloads, and the guy who dropped the tree shredded anything smaller than 3" dia. It's only redeeming feature is that it splits nicely when green and burns hot when dry, turning from yellow to burnt orange as it dries. Snap, crackle, and pop -- great for holiday campfires -- but, LOML won't let me bring it into the house. She loads the stove and hot mulberry often screams and barks when you open the loading door.

Well, they are certainly 'attractive'!

Philbert

Update

1. I LOVE USING THESE STICKS

- Much easier and faster than marking with chalk, crayon, paint, etc., or rotating the saw 90° each time to measure with the guide bar.
- They work on straight logs, as well as bent branches (e.g. cutting 'tops' into stove wood).
- Very easy to change Right side to Left side, etc., depending on the wood being cut.
- I got really pretty, neat, firewood stacks (if that is something that you care about).

I discovered that I really like 14" wood better for my stove (fits easier and larger rounds are easier to split). One tote that I use to store / carry wood is only 11-1/2 inches wide, so I cut some shorter to fit width-wise instead of length-wise. Neither of these was a problem with the calibrated, hi-viz tape markings.

2. THEY WILL FLY!

- I tried to intentionally knock the magnetic sticks off the guide bar, by bumping them against the wood. Sticks with stiffer rods, or smaller magnets, released more easily than more flexible rods or stronger magnets (see earlier post).

- The sticks did not 'fall' off the guide bar when bumped, as much as they 'slid' or rolled to a new position - this could be against the moving chain, if not nestled securely between deep bucking dogs.

- A surprise was cutting wood in a sawbuck - the 'X' frames of the sawbuck frequently bumped the measuring sticks out of position. This was not as much an issue when bucking on the ground.

- Another user commented on similar movement of the stick while trying to cut up trees with the limbs still attached: probably not the best application for these devices.

My recommendation is to use the measuring sticks for marking only, in any situation where they could get knocked into the rotating chain. Pretty simple and easy to remove them from the bar, and place them in a rear pocket, when not needed.

3. Next Steps?

I thought that these measuring sticks were a gadget when received, but am now sold on them: simple, convenient, practical, consistent, . . .

I was impressed with the 2 commercial versions I tested. If I make a 'Gen 3 Philbert' version, they will use the 70-pound magnets, with a smooth base and threaded male stud, and more flexible rods.

Philbert

 

[zogger]

First try, with the oregon battery saw. As a quick marker, great. Remove to cut. Yes, a slight bump and they want to slide. Next test will be something with real felling dawgs so it can nestle in there.

 

[Logger nate]

Well after reading this thread I decided to try the firewood buddy I really like it, works very well, strong magnet, was only like $15 on amazon, tried premarking with it close to bar tip and cutting blocks with it between dog teeth close to power head, for me premarking worked best, but most of what I cut is pretty straight. Great thread.

 

[Philbert]

Nate,

Can you measure the diameter of the rod on your Firewood Buddy for me (nearest 16th of an inch) ? Nerdy request, but I have been comparing a bunch of different models, along with different fiberglass rods for DIY models.

Thanks

Philbert

 

[Logger nate]

Hope that helps

 

[svk]

Philbert if you need 357/38 Spl brass I've got a bunch of it.

 

[Helper]

As creator and manufacture of the Woodcutters Helper we are honored to see our cutting edge magnetic mounting process adopted by Philbert, Ott Accu-Stic, Acc-U-Mark and others.
As the saying go’s, “Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.”

 

[Philbert]

As creator and manufacture of the Woodcutters Helper we are honored to see our cutting edge magnetic mounting process adopted by Philbert, Ott Accu-Stic, Acc-U-Mark and others. As the saying go’s, “Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.”

Welcome to A.S.!

You will find a large number of passionate woodcutters here, interested in products like yours. And, in general, we LOVE to have the inventors, manufacturers, reps, etc. , participate in forums, and share technical aspects of their products, so that we have a deeper understanding and appreciation of them.

As noted throughout this thread, I have tried making my own versions of your product out of curiosity, and my personal urge to 'tinker'. I have learned a lot, and tried to share that. But there is no practical way that I can 'compete' with the value point of your basic product, or with the sophistication of some of the higher end offerings.

I would love to hear your story of designing these.

Philbert

 

[svk]

Used my philbert measuring stick this morning doing a cord of hardwood.

Using the stick on a saw without spikes somewhat hindered the process as contact with wood would eventually "walk" up or down and into contact with the chain. If it hit the top chain it would throw the stick a good 25 feet so fortunately the bright colors helped me locate it.

I'll run it tomorrow on my larger saw and I'd bet it won't move once it's tucked in the spikes.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Agreed, you need at least one bumper spike for it to work right and the stick should be between you and the log, floating down with the saw. The spikes on my Makita and my 046 were ideal. With longer logs, I also tried several measurements at once with just nibble cuts. Then I took the stick off and cut at the nibbles since the measuring was over. That worked also, but with big logs, you must have a good chain that does not pull left or right. Whenever I get one of those, I replace it because most of the time it's the chain and not the bar that causes the pulling.

 

[tla100]

How about drilling hole in to dawg, threaded rod cut to desired length, nut on both sides of dawg with lock washers. Easy peasy, no gonna fly off, not real fun to maneuver tho. Patent Pending......

 

[turnkey4099]

How about drilling hole in to dawg, threaded rod cut to desired length, nut on both sides of dawg with lock washers. Easy peasy, no gonna fly off, not real fun to maneuver tho. Patent Pending......

In all my trials with saw mount measuring sticks, I found one of the most important things was easy/quick on/off. I tried the "quik sticks" (I dthink that was the name, plastic rods) they threaded into a double length bar nut - not too practical mounting/dismounting.

 

[tla100]

Ok. Threaded rod, jam nut, nut, dawg, but on bar side, drill hole and insert a small hitch pin clip into hole. Only one clip to loose.....

 

[Philbert]

Made a Set for Denny's Interfaith Firewood Ministry Volunteers



Philbert

 

[turnkey4099]

In all my trials with saw mount measuring sticks, I found one of the most important things was easy/quick on/off. I tried the "quik sticks" (I dthink that was the name, plastic rods) they threaded into a double length bar nut - not too practical mounting/dismounting.

Not practical AT ALL. Sticks break at the slightest excuse. I replaced the plastic ones with iron rods. Still takes to long to mount/dismount.

 

[bikemike]

I just use my echo saw and lay it on the log from chain cover to the nose of the bar and score with a blip of the throttle. And work my way down the line. 14 inch bar works great then come back with a bigger saw.

 

[svk]

Made a Set for Denny's Interfaith Firewood Ministry Volunteers

View attachment 587288

Philbert

And that carrying case!

 

[Philbert]

I really like these sticks and use them all the time now. Easy-on; easy-off.

The tape rings mean no measuring tapes and consistent lengths.

And that carrying case!

That was to help him keep track of them at a busy, outdoor work site.

Philbert

 

[jpcjguy]

Here is another version:

https://www.amazon.com/Cut-Rite-Cha...sory-Detachable/dp/B01M5FDFDW#customerReviews

 

[Philbert]

Here is another version . . .

That is one of the 'replaces the bar nut' type mounts.



Advantage:
- cannot not slip around like a magnetic mount.

Disadvantages:
- more time to mount/dismount;
- threaded adaptor stays with / protrudes from the saw;
- different threads for different saw brands;
- can't switch between right and left sides of guide bar;
- won't work on saws with 'tool-less' chain tensioners (no bar nuts).

About $30 at that link. Clever use of air hose coupling. Whatever works for the end user!

Philbert