First climb

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futbalfantic

ArboristSite Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2008
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Location
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Climb and took down my first tree today. Went pretty darn smoothly but took a while to get comfortable on the spikes. Still not crazy about spiking a 5" diameter spar. Tree was approx 50' poplar, I believe, 14" DBH splitting into 2 co-dominate at 8'. Hand sawed everything down, did not feel comfortable at all to take a chain saw up with me.

Side note: is it common for co-dominates to split when they hit the ground?


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At least you're learning on the skinny ones!!

I can tell you that I was scared s**t on my first few climbs. I had a hard time trusting the flipline, saddle or the spikes but now, comfortable as can be. 5" trunks are no fun. Now try some bigger trees. Much easier and way more comfortable. The saw is something you'll need to get used to in the tree. Use your brake as often as possible if uncomfortable with a spinning chain and always work conscientiously. Be safe.
 
Not really the chain saw its self that bothers me but the increased fatigue, increase in risk, all while uneasy.


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Yeah, 5 inchers are no fun, ya cant just put your foot down and push or ***. Ya gotta watch where ya putem, or ya will spike your other leg! Who did that a while back, few years maybe. I remember a nasty gash in a calf. Learnin on those, will def make the bigger ones easier! Good luck...stay safe, what where ya put those pointy things!
 
Pretty common thing for popular to split when crotches hit the ground.

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Use that also as an indicator as to how brittle poplar can be when you climb 5" daimeter spars and branches. They stand on their own but when you put 200 lbs. climbing it to one side, watch out.
 
I did a poplar yesterday too. Think it was a hybrid poplar. Thought the bark was really slick compared to the silver maple I did a few weeks ago. Pretty comfy up there on spikes and with the saw but need better spike pads. What are you guys using
 
Lots of guys use the gekos and swear by them but I use the Velcro angled wraps from buckingham and love em. I have found over the years that a lot of climbers will set the height of their spikes either to high or to low resulting in putting to much pressure on the shin or on the ankle, so maybe try adjusting the height on your spikes before spending money then if that don't work spend da money


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Lots of guys use the gekos and swear by them but I use the Velcro angled wraps from buckingham and love em. I have found over the years that a lot of climbers will set the height of their spikes either to high or to low resulting in putting to much pressure on the shin or on the ankle, so maybe try adjusting the height on your spikes before spending money then if that don't work spend da money


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I'm too heavy for the geckos. 250# without gear. Have the bucks with twisted shanks. What is the proper height. I'm 6'3" and have them adjusted all the way up
 
They shoukd be a inch or so below your knee. I am tall to and have mine the whoke way up also

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I'm too heavy for the geckos. 250# without gear. Have the bucks with twisted shanks. What is the proper height. I'm 6'3" and have them adjusted all the way up
I'm 6'3 too and have them set three holes down from top but every leg is not the same but I used to set them as high as possible and that didn't work out to well for me but line I said all legs are not same also I use pole spikes which helped the comfort a lot ,yes I know you can't use pole spikes on every tree but it only 3 minuets to change them over .


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Congrats to your first removal! And welcome to the site. 5" way up is a bit shaky. Tough one for first removal.
I use the carbon Geckos with velcro pads. Not sure if "comfy" is the correct description, but they are the least the most uncomfy spikes I have used. And light weight.
About the hand saw; I´ve started using the hand saw more when when removing the top after some "issues" with the chain saw. A really sharp hand saw is a good and powerful tool.
 
Congrats on a safe adventure. The most important thing about running a saw aloft, is the double tie in. Always have your lanyard on when cutting. Up on a 5" spar, it is easy to gaff out and slip, if ya only have your TIP on, and it has weight, one little nick and your down in the blink of a eye. Never make a cut unless you are comfy. I have yet to try Gecko's, but I freaking hate spikes in general and will climb with out them when ever I can. Normally,the only time I have too is when removing a lion tailed silver maple, one that has a clump of leaders with no structure. Even on rough bark trees I go without spike as I have something to get a grip, those silvers are so freaking slippery, add in lichens and some moisture..... Sometimes, if it is a bad one. I will have my TIP in and then shoot a line into the top of the leader I am removing, then hip thrust up on that one, then pull slack on my TIP. Using a the second as a lanyard. I do all this to avoid spikes, they hurt me that much. I have to get them so tight that I have to have help getting the buckles in the last holes. I am a pretty small guy, 5'8" 135-140lbs. I have adjusted them to every possible configuration, no luck. I have thought about those ones that have the shoe bottom's and adding the Velcro. Anyone ever had those? Thinking about having gaffs grafted to my ankles, then I can just screw them on and off when I need them, like those dudes with spikes in there heads! All I know is spikes suck! Why I want the Goth mod.
 
Congrats on a safe adventure. The most important thing about running a saw aloft, is the double tie in. Always have your lanyard on when cutting. Up on a 5" spar, it is easy to gaff out and slip, if ya only have your TIP on, and it has weight, one little nick and your down in the blink of a eye. Never make a cut unless you are comfy. I have yet to try Gecko's, but I freaking hate spikes in general and will climb with out them when ever I can. Normally,the only time I have too is when removing a lion tailed silver maple, one that has a clump of leaders with no structure. Even on rough bark trees I go without spike as I have something to get a grip, those silvers are so freaking slippery, add in lichens and some moisture..... Sometimes, if it is a bad one. I will have my TIP in and then shoot a line into the top of the leader I am removing, then hip thrust up on that one, then pull slack on my TIP. Using a the second as a lanyard. I do all this to avoid spikes, they hurt me that much. I have to get them so tight that I have to have help getting the buckles in the last holes. I am a pretty small guy, 5'8" 135-140lbs. I have adjusted them to every possible configuration, no luck. I have thought about those ones that have the shoe bottom's and adding the Velcro. Anyone ever had those? Thinking about having gaffs grafted to my ankles, then I can just screw them on and off when I need them, like those dudes with spikes in there heads! All I know is spikes suck! Why I want the Goth mod.
I can't imagine why your spikes hurt you so bad. Good boots are an integral part of comfort in the tree, I would be curious to know what kind you wear. I use the foot plates, (we call them "floor boards") on my pole gaffs and they work well and it keeps me from changing into climbing boots when working on the line. I don't usually stay on a pole for extended periods anymore. I have never used the plates on my tree spikes. Is it your arches that hurt, calves, ankles or what?

Congratulations Futbal, you're one tough son of a gun to take that tree down with a hand saw! Keep climbing, it will be second nature before long and hopefully fun too. Climbing, rigging and running a good sharp saw is still a blast for me after 32 years.
 
Limbrat, whats with the foot plates? How does that work? Are they like insoles you put in the shoes? Metal plates?
Sounds like a good thing to distribute the pressure evenly under the foot...
 
Limbrat, whats with the foot plates? How does that work? Are they like insoles you put in the shoes? Metal plates?
Sounds like a good thing to distribute the pressure evenly under the foot...
Hey Guran, Buckingham makes them, they are plates that bolt to the shank of your spikes to keep you from getting "crow's foot". Florida Power supplied them for us many years ago. They work well, I've climbed in them for over twenty years on the line crew. I just looked and they are still available, $80 on ebay. If you're using climbing boots with really good steel or fiber shanks they may be just added weight but with mediocre boots they make a big difference. Boots are something I rarely see mentioned here, don't know why, maybe everybody already understands they make the difference between a good climb and a very painful one.
 
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