First new saw in 33 years

[Jeff Lary]

Yes I guess anything is possible. I never did go into the woods today. The wind came up and the temp never really did its only 11* right now. I will hit her hard tomorrow though ha ha.

 

[Jeff Lary]

I did go out today -11* when I went, and -1* when got back ,bty that's way too cold.
The saw starts right up but after it comes off high idle you have to constantly keep playing with the throttle to keep it running at least 3-4 minutes. After you get it running well enough to stop "wetting off" the throttle and actually try to fell a tree, as soon as you touch the throttle it hogs up and stalls. I think it may be starving for fuel?
I am wondering if I open the low end up some will that stop this behavior ? I would most likely have to re adjust the idle too I suppose after I touch the low end. I spend more time trying to keep the saw running and re-starting it than I do using it by far. I bet in the course of felling 9 small trees today 5"-10" in diameter, I pulled the recoil at least 200 times. I can take it back to the dealer for a tune and I will,.. but for now i am on vacation to work in the woods, I am thinking of trying some adjusting on my own. What do you guys think?

 

[holeycow]

I think you should watch multiple YouTube videos on how to tune a saw, then see if you can even adjust that carb with whatever stupid limiters it has, and then decide if you should take it back to the dealer or tune it yourself.

Somebody must have some baseline settings for that carb???

It should start, idle, and accelerate merely with correct baseline settings.

 

[Sepia]

I would think you need a DD screwdriver to adjust your carb. Also, if you keep running your saw, even though it seems like it isn't running properly, and then take it back to your dealer, if he finds any damage caused by running the saw for weeks improperly tuned he "may" have an issue with providing warranty service. I don't know that for a fact, and possibly I am way off, but he could possibly say you should have brought it in at first sign of trouble.

 

[Vibes]

I got 2 Dolmars and never got the hat.

 

[holeycow]

Me 2.

2 and no hat

 

[Jeff Lary]

I may take it back sooner, I have the "Double D" screwdriver btw, but for a 45 minute drive I can let them see what it is doing I suppose.
I am a strange fella I guess, I drive for a living in my job all day every day and while on vacation I really hate to spend any portion of my time driving anywhere. I get enough of that at work. As for the hat I am not a hat person and it is still on the deck table right where it was when I took the picture if it has not blown away by the spring time I will bring it inside ha ha.

 

[Jeff Lary]

I would think you need a DD screwdriver to adjust your carb. Also, if you keep running your saw, even though it seems like it isn't running properly, and then take it back to your dealer, if he finds any damage caused by running the saw for weeks improperly tuned he "may" have an issue with providing warranty service. I don't know that for a fact, and possibly I am way off, but he could possibly say you should have brought it in at first sign of trouble.

Yea I know you are right we have a new washing machine being delivered today after that I may take it over.

 

[Jeff Lary]

I think you should watch multiple YouTube videos on how to tune a saw, then see if you can even adjust that carb with whatever stupid limiters it has, and then decide if you should take it back to the dealer or tune it yourself.

Somebody must have some baseline settings for that carb???

It should start, idle, and accelerate merely with correct baseline settings.

I agree, I think I am capable of adjusting the carb but it does have the caps on it. I was thinking about the caps last evening,I don't know if there would be enough adjustment available to cure the issue. I will just let them do it I guess it is a new saw after all.

 

[Sepia]

I hope your dealer can get it running to your satisfaction. I have the same saw and it is my favourite saw to run, with none of the symptoms your saw is experiencing. I think if you can get it running properly, and keep a sharp chain on it, you will really enjoy using it. Once you get used to the easy start (took me awhile), it is amazing how easy it is to get it running. Good luck!

 

[Jeff Lary]

Nothing easy about this saw I'll tell ya that.
Do you own a carb adjustment tool? I bought a 4 piece set from amazon for a cheap poulan that I was working on one time but none of the four tools I have will work will on this saw.
I called the dealer an hour ago and the saw mechanic is off till Tuesday.... so I asked if they cared if I try opening up the low end a little. He said god no have at it,.. it will not affect the warranty for you. I told him that I thought the mechanic said the screws were "double d" and I knew I had one.
But of course the one I have will not fit, it is not a big enough inside diameter to even go on over the screw to begin with. And to be honest I can not tell if it is even a "double d" or what it is?
I did get a tiny set of needle nose pliers on it enough to move it about a 1/8 turn out. It does not seem to bog out now but still does not start well.
So does anyone have the 5105 tool and what kind is it and where can I buy one?

 

[holeycow]

I haven’t got a tool yet. My new 5105 is lean on the low for sure (hanging idle one time when hot). It is probably also lean on the high, because it feels and sounds too “zingy”. It is winter. I will not run it again until I can tune it properly.

I was thinking that a soft eraser on the end of a pencil may turn the screws. I haven’t tried it yet. I will buy the correct tool or slot the screws at some point.

You cannot get into bad trouble by erring to the rich on the fuel mixture...

 

[Jeff Lary]

I am in the process of making a tool from a 12v butt connector and a cheap old small screwdriver. But this is not ideal,.. maybe a pencil eraser with a 1/8" hole drilled in the end would work but I doubt that. The screw is inside a casting hood or casting cave of sorts,.. so there is very little room around the outside of the screw and the inside the casting. I really want to know what "shape" the screw is, if I had some modeling clay I would try to make a casting of the shape so I could see the freaking thing. The end of the screw is round but in beyond that there is some sort of shape but I cannot tell what it is. But unless someone can tell me where to buy one that may not even be the answer I need. I already have the "set of 4 tuning tools" and they are not large enough. I have the single D, the Pac Man, the Spline, and the Double D. the cheap set that is sold everywhere.

 

[Sepia]

Here is some pics including a close up of the screws and a shot of the proper screwdriver.

 

[Jeff Lary]

have you tried that driver? I have the exact same one, mine does not fit and even if it did fit it is not machined deep enough to reach over the round shaft to get to the flats. Thanks for the picture at least I can see what they are now ha ha.

 

[Sepia]

Yes I have used that driver - I even put it on the screws before I took the pics to make sure I had the right one.

 

[Sepia]

I have read of users taking a piece of small diameter pipe like a brake line and flattening one end a bit to fit over those flats.

 

[Jeff Lary]

This is what I have like I said it is no big enough to even go on over the smooth round portion of the screw.

 

[Jeff Lary]

I am feeling around the inside of the tool with a toothpick and -maybe- there is a little casting flash on the outermost edge? maybe. But even if that is the case the hollow portion is very shallow maybe 3/16 deep,,,, maybe but not any more than that.
This is the one I am making it is not squared off inside but it does "seem" to grip the round portion of the screw. I went out to the shop and got the dremel I will try to open the throat of the "dd" tool a little bit

 

[Sepia]

Looks like you could clamp that screwdriver in a vise and drill the round portion a little deeper maybe.