Hard to define 'sharp'. It's not like a knife. I could not shave or slice tomatoes with it. But I think that if I pressed my thumb down hard and pushed it along the edge that it would cut in pretty deep.
Does that make sense?
Philbert
Fiskars 28" and 36" Side-By-Side Comparison
- Thread starter Philbert
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Hard to define 'sharp'. It's not like a knife. I could not shave or slice tomatoes with it. But I think that if I pressed my thumb down hard and pushed it along the edge that it would cut in pretty deep.
Does that make sense?
Philbert
zogger
Tree Freak
sharpness
My original super splitter, 28 inch handle came super sharp and it has to stay that way to split well. I can tell *immediately* on one whack if it got dull and will stop and give it a few strokes.
I also use the straight over the head swing for best results.
They have a video at fiskars website that shows their trained pro splitter dude with that swing. I started out with a normal "maul" swing and found out that just doesn't work as well.
I do that overhead swing, or if it is fast wood, just half swings with a fast snatch back pull up to get set for the next one. More a chopping motion than a full long swing. Rapid fire splitting of multiple smaller rounds inside a tire for that latter type splitting. WHACKWHACKWHACKWHACK and WHACK. Real quick.. did about..~~ a dozen or so rounds tonight, mixed, cherry, maple and oak, largest not big mebbe 14 inches diameter, and I cut to around 16 long as a general rule..
So..I think you got a bum one, go back and see if the others are sharper, or send it directly back to fiskars and b***h about it. They should come sharp, they ain't gonna work dull. They aren't mauls, they are axes, that's the difference, two different tools. Mauls are dullish, axes only work when real sharp.
Oh..hmmm...depends on the wood, maybe work outside to in a little, and make sure your strike is dead on straight, no twist or lean to it.
My original super splitter, 28 inch handle came super sharp and it has to stay that way to split well. I can tell *immediately* on one whack if it got dull and will stop and give it a few strokes.
I also use the straight over the head swing for best results.
They have a video at fiskars website that shows their trained pro splitter dude with that swing. I started out with a normal "maul" swing and found out that just doesn't work as well.
I do that overhead swing, or if it is fast wood, just half swings with a fast snatch back pull up to get set for the next one. More a chopping motion than a full long swing. Rapid fire splitting of multiple smaller rounds inside a tire for that latter type splitting. WHACKWHACKWHACKWHACK and WHACK. Real quick.. did about..~~ a dozen or so rounds tonight, mixed, cherry, maple and oak, largest not big mebbe 14 inches diameter, and I cut to around 16 long as a general rule..
So..I think you got a bum one, go back and see if the others are sharper, or send it directly back to fiskars and b***h about it. They should come sharp, they ain't gonna work dull. They aren't mauls, they are axes, that's the difference, two different tools. Mauls are dullish, axes only work when real sharp.
Oh..hmmm...depends on the wood, maybe work outside to in a little, and make sure your strike is dead on straight, no twist or lean to it.
Pro split axe
I have the old light pro split axe. I bought it not knowing they made the heavier super splitter. I use it for everything. My 6lb maul collects dust. I split 20-30" rounds of 2 yr old red oak for several hours two weekends ago. I know it could not be matched by any traditional maul I have used in the past for me. I find the slender head slides through the wood. Because it slides though I spend less time chasing blocks that have gone flying. If the 2.5 pounder is for smaller wood only I've really have got to try it's big brother.
Oh, I'm 6 feet tall and normally split on a block. It took some time to get used to the shorter handle but it's not bad. Could be dangerous if you didn't know what you were doing but I haven't had any close calls with my shins yet. Knock on wood!
I have the old light pro split axe. I bought it not knowing they made the heavier super splitter. I use it for everything. My 6lb maul collects dust. I split 20-30" rounds of 2 yr old red oak for several hours two weekends ago. I know it could not be matched by any traditional maul I have used in the past for me. I find the slender head slides through the wood. Because it slides though I spend less time chasing blocks that have gone flying. If the 2.5 pounder is for smaller wood only I've really have got to try it's big brother.
Oh, I'm 6 feet tall and normally split on a block. It took some time to get used to the shorter handle but it's not bad. Could be dangerous if you didn't know what you were doing but I haven't had any close calls with my shins yet. Knock on wood!
Highway 61 Revisited
Well, it's been almost 2 months since that silver maple was cut, and I had about 20 rounds that had not been split. It's amazing the difference in the wood in just that short period of time.
It was also surprising how different the Fiskars worked on them. I could clearly see how someone who has never used one before could be surprised at all of the positive comments if they were splitting this wood, versus the same wood 2 months ago!
I had to adjust my swing and splitting strategy - not always aiming for dead center. In this trial, using the same wood from the same tree, the heavier (but shorter) Fiskars worked noticeably better! In April I would have chosen the other one 'if I had to choose just one'.
So, to generalize:
1) I still encourage people to try these things, or the different models, side-by-side, on the exact woods or types of rounds that they plan on splitting.
2) Just like golfers never head to the course with just one club, don't rule out the option of different tools for different situations.
Phlbert
Well, it's been almost 2 months since that silver maple was cut, and I had about 20 rounds that had not been split. It's amazing the difference in the wood in just that short period of time.
It was also surprising how different the Fiskars worked on them. I could clearly see how someone who has never used one before could be surprised at all of the positive comments if they were splitting this wood, versus the same wood 2 months ago!
I had to adjust my swing and splitting strategy - not always aiming for dead center. In this trial, using the same wood from the same tree, the heavier (but shorter) Fiskars worked noticeably better! In April I would have chosen the other one 'if I had to choose just one'.
So, to generalize:
1) I still encourage people to try these things, or the different models, side-by-side, on the exact woods or types of rounds that they plan on splitting.
2) Just like golfers never head to the course with just one club, don't rule out the option of different tools for different situations.
Phlbert
pele55
ArboristSite Operative
fiskars input
i actually used a the x25 last fall for the first time.. i have using a splitting maul since i was about 12 or 13 and used it alot.. we used to have two wood stoves to keep mom and dads old farmhouse warm.. my son is 19 years old and has split next to nothing for wood.. i now own both the x25 and the x27 Fiskars.. my son told me to get one right away.. he thought it was the greatest thing in the world.. he loves splitting wood with it..
i actually used a the x25 last fall for the first time.. i have using a splitting maul since i was about 12 or 13 and used it alot.. we used to have two wood stoves to keep mom and dads old farmhouse warm.. my son is 19 years old and has split next to nothing for wood.. i now own both the x25 and the x27 Fiskars.. my son told me to get one right away.. he thought it was the greatest thing in the world.. he loves splitting wood with it..
UPDATE
I tried to replace missing photographs in this thread - should be close to the originals.
The Fiskars line up and models continue to change. Here is a link to some of their current models (as of this date):
http://www2.fiskars.com/Gardening-a...ool/Choose-the-Right-Axe-for-You#.UyTE_yhyH8t
And a link to their 'How to split wood' blog:
http://www2.fiskars.com/Gardening-a...nd-Splitting/Splitting-Fire-Wood#.UyTFHyhyH8s
Note that Bailey's is currently listing the Fiskars 28" chopping axe, not listed on the Fiskars page, which I really like to carry when cutting wood, to limb branches, clear away small brush, and to drive wedges: http://www.baileysonline.com/Forest...tting/Fiskars-375581-1001-28-Chopping-Axe.axd
Philbert
I tried to replace missing photographs in this thread - should be close to the originals.
The Fiskars line up and models continue to change. Here is a link to some of their current models (as of this date):
http://www2.fiskars.com/Gardening-a...ool/Choose-the-Right-Axe-for-You#.UyTE_yhyH8t
And a link to their 'How to split wood' blog:
http://www2.fiskars.com/Gardening-a...nd-Splitting/Splitting-Fire-Wood#.UyTFHyhyH8s
Note that Bailey's is currently listing the Fiskars 28" chopping axe, not listed on the Fiskars page, which I really like to carry when cutting wood, to limb branches, clear away small brush, and to drive wedges: http://www.baileysonline.com/Forest...tting/Fiskars-375581-1001-28-Chopping-Axe.axd
Philbert
D
Deleted member 116684
Guest
I have heard of similar experiences with the x 27. They don't always come sharp, I understand. I sharpen mine after a third of a cord or so, just a quick touch up. I split a cord of sweet gum with my fiskars a month ago or so, and considering what a pain that wood can be, it did well as long as the axe was sharp. You could contact fiskars and let them know.
zogger
Tree Freak
If you are splitting sweetgum with a fiskars you are doing *good*. I have done it, but it's hard for me.
hoskvarna
Addicted to ArboristSite
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hoskvarna
Addicted to ArboristSite
yup,little shorter than i was used to.i was splittin on the ground,like philbert said it makes a difference on block or ground! stand with legs open so if it splits easier than u think just goes on by.
c5rulz
Addicted to ArboristSite
That's kind of what I figured.
I traded my X25 for another X27. I feared for my feetsies.
zogger
Tree Freak
I had one near miss on one of my first swings with the original supersplitter and went to the tire on a stump deal. That axe just blew through the round like it was marshmallow and I wasn't expecting it. My mind and muscle memory was still working with 8lb anvil on a stick mode...man, two vastly different tools and techniques needed there.
old tire on a stump (well, big fat short cookie) eliminates 99% of any probability of an axe accident splitting, any size handle.
MuskokaSplitter
ArboristSite Operative
I got my x27 last year and like it so much I bought another just incase it breaks....then I also bought a x25 on sale. Figured it would be good on some smaller stuff
My X25 will split 12"+ buckskin tamarack on one swing, my X11 on something that is split but still a large piece I can split in one swing. I feel like im swinging a Butchers Cleaver one handed at the wood but it blows apart w/the X11. They are not the one Axe for everything out there just like any other tool, but if they get the job done on the wood your working on they are hard to beat.
I agree on the getting used to the short length of the X25 my Ideal length on it would be 32" instead of 28" like many standard size Axes that are not the large Maul size.
I agree on the getting used to the short length of the X25 my Ideal length on it would be 32" instead of 28" like many standard size Axes that are not the large Maul size.
Knobby57
Peeing outdoors
I'm 6'2 and have the x25 and the x27 the x25 just seams to short and yes legs open or you will loose a boot or toe. The x27 works fantastic and is my go too splitting axe
I think this is the later style and I think I wish it was the earlier. Gets stuck in the nasties here.
Maybe if I file it back…I wonder how deep the temper is. 
