Found a decent deal on an 044

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Dontcha have that saw together yet? LOL Looks like you are making progress. I would get a new eclip and use the dremel to cut the old one off.
 
Dontcha have that saw together yet? LOL Looks like you are making progress. I would get a new eclip and use the dremel to cut the old one off.

Nope. I don't even have it all apart yet. :deadhorse:


I can't believe how tight the flywheel is on there. Should it be that difficult to remove with the puller? I've got the 13mm nut off, the puller threaded into the flywheel, and the thrust bolt threaded into the puller and I have a socket on the thrust bolt and an adjustable wrench on the puller and it feels like it won't budge.

Suggestions?
 
Nope. I don't even have it all apart yet. :deadhorse:


I can't believe how tight the flywheel is on there. Should it be that difficult to remove with the puller? I've got the 13mm nut off, the puller threaded into the flywheel, and the thrust bolt threaded into the puller and I have a socket on the thrust bolt and an adjustable wrench on the puller and it feels like it won't budge.

Suggestions?

Mine was like that as well. I think that keeps the key from being sheared. I used a breaker bar to pop mine off. Just make sure you have it threaded all the way into the flywheel.
 
I'll get the Dremel out and work on that e-clip tomorrow. Clutch and chain brake off tomorrow, a bit of clean up, and then check the oil seals. Give the entire case a good cleaning and then it's time to reassemble with the new parts.

Just about any degreaser alright to use with soapy water to clean up the case?
 
Flywheel off and a little wipe down.
DSCN4252.jpg
 
Surgery was successful. The e-clip and washer will certainly need to be replace as they were amputated from the saw tonight. Clutch drum looks to be in good shape. There were some sort of fibers wrapped around the outside edge of the needle cage and crankshaft.

I'll post pictures tomorrow.

When replacing the rim sprocket, should I go with 7 or 8 tooth? I'm thinking 7 as I don't need race saw speed, but I also have the 066 with a 7 pin for anything that I would want to run a 28-32" through. Would 8 pin work well for 25-28" bars on the 044 or should I just stick with the 7?

Also, can someone confirm in the IPL that I need the following part numbers for the e-clip, washer, needle cage, and rim sprocket:
9460 624 0801 - e-clip
9512 933 2380 - needle cage
0000 642 1223 - 7T 3/8" rim sprocket
0000 958 1032 - washer

Or does 1128 007 1000 - rim sprocket kit give me the sprocket, clutch drum, washer, and e-clip and I would just need to order the needle cage as well?
 
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Guess I'm going to need to need a longer ratchet to remove the clutch. I'm hoping I didn't d|ck up the bearings. I was using the plastic piston stop that came with the piston rings clamp kit from Bailey's and a 19mm socket on the clutch. I was putting pressure on it and it just felt like it broke loose and was going to come right off. Nope. And now the crank only turns just shy of 1 complete turn in either direction and the clutch is still on there.

I'll look at it more tomorrow. Enough for tonight.
 
Did you break off any of your piston stop? Get some rope, like pull cord rope and stuff it into the cylinder enough so that it stops the piston. Take the clutch off(righty loosy used revers threads) then take the cylinder off and you will be able to tell what is wrong. My guess would be that a piece of the stop got wedged in somewhere.
 
Busted piston stop is what I was thinking too. Use the rope trick for a piston stop and see if you can get the clutch off. Hits the threads with some PB Blaster or something for as long as you can before you give it a go. If you can not get the piston to come up to the top of its stroke in order to hit the piston stop you may have to pull the cylinder. If you do,put some tape over the exhaust/intake and hit the powerhead with some purple cleaner.
 
Thanks for the replies. That's what I'm trying to figure out. It was going all the way around freely until trying to get the clutch off. I'm assuming it's part of the piston stop. I'm not worried if the piston or cylinder get a little jacked up as they're getting replaced as it is. I care if the bearings or something happened with the rod, crank, or bearings. I'll try the rope trick first and if that doesn't work, I'll get the case cleaned up and get the cylinder off. I wanted to leave it on to check the oil seals, so we'll see.
 
I broke my black plastic piston stop.You should be able to hear it rattling around in the cylinder, or see it through the spark plug hole.
 
attachment.php
When taking off the clutch, I found that turning the saw on its side(clutch facing up), and putting it in a vice really helps.I line the vice with an old fleece jacket I have.You have to be careful not to reef down on it so it cracks the case.Also need to make sure there is no metal on metal.With the case in the vise, it makes it much easier.Plus the socket isn`t slipping off while your trying to hold the case steady.I hade a really hard time with clutches until I started puting them in the vice.Holding the case steady is half the battle.I took a photo If it helps.If you make sure the case is secure and your socket secure, you can use steady pressure to the right and it will come off.You can use a piece of 1" pipe to put the ratchet handle in for leverage. Apply steady force to the right and it should come off.The hardest thing is keeping the socket on the clutch.Maybe you already do this, if not, here`s an 026 I`m working on.Also, here are the stops I use.You can see one one of my piston stops broke off too.
attachment.php
 
I picked up some PB Blaster and purple cleaner today. I might get some time to work on the clutch tonight. I'm going to see if my dad or FIL have a section of pipe I can use for more leverage.
 
When replacing the rim sprocket, should I go with 7 or 8 tooth? I'm thinking 7 as I don't need race saw speed, but I also have the 066 with a 7 pin for anything that I would want to run a 28-32" through. Would 8 pin work well for 25-28" bars on the 044 or should I just stick with the 7?

Also, can someone confirm in the IPL that I need the following part numbers for the e-clip, washer, needle cage, and rim sprocket:
9460 624 0801 - e-clip
9512 933 2380 - needle cage
0000 642 1223 - 7T 3/8" rim sprocket
0000 958 1032 - washer

Or does 1128 007 1000 - rim sprocket kit give me the sprocket, clutch drum, washer, and e-clip and I would just need to order the needle cage as well?

Do these part numbers look right?
 
Clutch is off along with the worm gear and the rest of the loose bits and pieces behind the clutch. I have exams and certifications for work to do this evening, I'm hoping to get to the chain brake and the rest of the odds and ends and then seal it up and spray it down.

There were a couple pieces of the piston stop in the cylinder along with a perfectly spherical shaped chunk of saw dust/oil/crud that I think came out of there when I was shaking the powerhead trying to get everything out.

Now, to find the poster who suggested PB Blaster. You sir, deserve rep. That stuff is amazing, or I just really loosened it and gave up a bit early last night.

Thanks again everyone for all of your help.
 
PB Blaster is good stuff. I used it a lot on the tractors for rusted bolts. Some take a couple of soakings but it does works it's way in eventually. Glad to hear you got her apart now.
 

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