Found a decent deal on an 044

[Brian13]

After you find the leak you should be ready to take it apart. Did you try listening for the air leak, if you can hear a hiss that should narrow your search down.

 

[USMC0802]

After you find the leak you should be ready to take it apart. Did you try listening for the air leak, if you can hear a hiss that should narrow your search down.

First attempt at testing I could hear it from where I was trying to seal the intake. Couldn't hear anything the second time using the rubber.

I'm using the Mityvac kit with a section of the clear tubing the kit comes with and a nozzle that necks down to a size I could insert into the impulse tube.

I'll have to spray it with some soapy water and see what I find.

I tried to pressure test the carb as well and it failed to hold pressure, but I read the tests are more accurate when they've been dunked or submerged.

I doubt I'll get to it tomorrow. We're having a pool party followed by a fire outside and I'm doing some cutting on Sunday, at least that's the plan for Sunday.

 

[USMC0802]

Holds pressure, but slowly leaks off vacuum.

 

[Brian13]

Holds pressure, but slowly leaks off vacuum.

Carb or saw?

 

[USMC0802]

Carb or saw?

Saw...I'm already planning on rebuilding the carb. I was trying to figure out if the seals need to be replaced.

 

[Brian13]

I would pressurize the case, and spray the seals and look for bubbles. I believe there is an acceptable loss of vac over a certain amount of time but I dont remember what it was. It wasnt much if any. I know when I did my vac test getting the end of the vac gauge to seal took perfect placement, I think I ended up holding it in place.

 

[USMC0802]

I would pressurize the case, and spray the seals and look for bubbles. I believe there is an acceptable loss of vac over a certain amount of time but I dont remember what it was. It wasnt much if any. I know when I did my vac test getting the end of the vac gauge to seal took perfect placement, I think I ended up holding it in place.

Guess I need to get my hands on a flywheel puller. I feel like an idiot, but I'm having a hell of a time just getting the e-clip off. I tried a couple different sized screwdrivers and can't seem to pry it off.

 

[Brian13]

If one screw driver wont work use two small one, and pry up and slightly away for each other. Seems to work for me, or a small set of needle nose pliers with a 45* bend also works for me.

 

[oscar4883]

If they are really stuck I use two Stihl tuning screwdrivers. That way I am less likely to destroy it. For pressure/vac testing I have a simple set-up. Brass fittings on the ends of a coupler. One end is sized to fit the hoses of my pressures guauge and my vac gauge. The other is sized to fit the impulse hose end.

I usually test twice on a rebuild. Once before I have the handle assembly on, and once after. When I test before the handle is attatched I use some Gorilla duct tape over the end of the intake manifold, and some of the clear tubing your dealer sells in place of the impulse line. I can get some pics tomorrow if you would like.

 

[USMC0802]

If they are really stuck I use two Stihl tuning screwdrivers. That way I am less likely to destroy it. For pressure/vac testing I have a simple set-up. Brass fittings on the ends of a coupler. One end is sized to fit the hoses of my pressures guauge and my vac gauge. The other is sized to fit the impulse hose end.

I usually test twice on a rebuild. Once before I have the handle assembly on, and once after. When I test before the handle is attatched I use some Gorilla duct tape over the end of the intake manifold, and some of the clear tubing your dealer sells in place of the impulse line. I can get some pics tomorrow if you would like.

I have a rubber and sheet metal behind the muffler housing on the exhaust side and a piece of inner tube held down by the outside carb washer. I put two small washers and then spacers on the mounting studs and then tightened it down with two nuts. It's holding pressure but leaking on the vacuum. I'll have to work on that e-clip to get to the seals on the clutch side and I haven't figured out where to get a flywheel puller yet. The part number listed in the service manual isn't coming up on a price sheet I have from July 2010.

 

[USMC0802]

The e-clip seems to sit recessed into the washer, I think that's the problem. I don't have anything to get enough pressure on it to get it to pop out of where it's sitting.

Found a British video on YouTube and it's definitely not that easy.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUbSIHMSSP8

 

[Brian13]

Here is a flywheel puller for you.
http://cgi.ebay.com/STIHL-FLYWHEEL-...043976633?pt=US_Chainsaws&hash=item53d44b17b9

The e-clip just takes some messing with. Just do it in a open area. That way if it flys off it will be easy to find.

 

[USMC0802]

Here is a flywheel puller for you.
http://cgi.ebay.com/STIHL-FLYWHEEL-...043976633?pt=US_Chainsaws&hash=item53d44b17b9

The e-clip just takes some messing with. Just do it in a open area. That way if it flys off it will be easy to find.

Thanks, I'll see what I can get locally before having to wait 8-10 days for PayPal to clear and shipping. I'll probably end up ordering it tomorrow though as I doubt I'll be thrilled when I talk to the dealer.

 

[Brian13]

I have had pretty good luck and dont have to wait to long when dealing with ebay.

 

[USMC0802]

Bailey's order is out for delivery according to UPS. Parts from the dealer should be in today as well. I'll get some pictures of the P&C when I get home today.

 

[USMC0802]

Received the delivery from Bailey's and the parts from the dealer. Not sure if I'll get to do much with the saw tonight as the grandparents are in town to see my daughter. I ordered the flywheel puller from eBay. Not sure if the local shop had the right tool number when they looked it up as I was quoted around $67 for it. I spoke with their head mechanic and he described a method to remove the flywheel with a rubber mallet and screwdriver...

 

[USMC0802]

I found it interesting that the new piston was riding in the cylinder, but upside down, in the packaging. It looks like it rubbed a bit. Pics of the new P&C:
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w121/jtkratzer/Stihl 044/DSCN4170.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w121/jtkratzer/Stihl 044/DSCN4173.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w121/jtkratzer/Stihl 044/DSCN4175.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w121/jtkratzer/Stihl 044/DSCN4174.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w121/jtkratzer/Stihl 044/DSCN4182.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w121/jtkratzer/Stihl 044/DSCN4183.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w121/jtkratzer/Stihl 044/DSCN4184.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w121/jtkratzer/Stihl 044/DSCN4185.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w121/jtkratzer/Stihl 044/DSCN4186.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w121/jtkratzer/Stihl 044/DSCN4189.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w121/jtkratzer/Stihl 044/DSCN4190.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w121/jtkratzer/Stihl 044/DSCN4191.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w121/jtkratzer/Stihl 044/DSCN4194.jpg
http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w121/jtkratzer/Stihl 044/DSCN4195.jpg

The kit did come with the plug for the decomp opening for those who were wondering. The girl I spoke to on the phone at Bailey's led me to believe it was not included and I would have to purchase it or the valve.

 

[PA Plumber]

I have a 440 that needs at least a piston and rings. (ordered from Bailey's)

I did get a price on the piston from Stihl, but it shook me up a little!

 

[USMC0802]

After I figure out if/where the leak(s) are and I want to pull the cylinder off, what are you using to clean all the gunk off the crankcase/cylinder to keep it from falling in and around the crank and bearings?

 

[Brian13]

If it were me I would pull the fuel tank off the case, and remove the muffler. Just block the intake and exhaust ports and then use compressed air and a small brush to clean up around the cylinder. That will also allow you to clean under the tank. Alot of crap can build up there.