Found a decent deal on an 044

[USMC0802]

If it were me I would pull the fuel tank off the case, and remove the muffler. Just block the intake and exhaust ports and then use compressed air and a small brush to clean up around the cylinder. That will also allow you to clean under the tank. Alot of crap can build up there.

Sounds good. I'll work on that until I get the flywheel puller and can check out the seals.

 

[USMC0802]

The service manual has a diagram of a Zama carb. Can I assume before taking my Walbro carb apart that they should be similar enough to follow the service manual? I've never rebuilt a carb, so I'd like to know if the manual I'm following will work or leave me with a bunch of small pieces and rubber parts on the table.

 

[USMC0802]

Carb is a Walbro HD-10A...Walbro's site has the 10B, but not A.

 

[oscar4883]

I normally seperate the tank and the case then put Gorilla duct tape over the intake and exhaust. A small piece of the old impulse with a broken off q-tip stuck into it is good for keeping junk out. Then spray the entire saw down with purple cleaner and scrup away. Gets it nice and clean. Don't worry about that coating on the piston being worn as it will wear off quickly once the saw is running.

 

[Brian13]

I didnt use a manual. So I would suggest using what you found for the Walbro and pay close attention to how it comes apart.

 

[USMC0802]

I didnt use a manual. So I would suggest using what you found for the Walbro and pay close attention to how it comes apart.

Yeah, one part I'm not remembering well is the order and orientation of the metering diaphragm. I know how the holes line up, those are idiot proof, but if you flip it over, it fits that way, too.

Does the gasket go against the cover or the body? And the diaphragm...one side has only a small disc on one side and other side has a bigger disc that looks like a 5 shot revolver cylinder. I know, my terminology is ridiculous - first time through this.

How is the diaphragm oriented and does the gasket go against the cover with the diaphragm against the body?

Walbro's site isn't working to give me an exploded view for the 10B.
http://wem.walbro.com/walbro/produc...m=HD-10B&GroupName=Chain Saw&FamilyName=STIHL

 

[USMC0802]

Think I got it...found the service manual for the carb:
http://wem.walbro.com/distributors/servicemanuals/HDAseries.pdf

 

[Brian13]

I would have to pull one apart to tell you. I dont take my carbs apart until I have replacement parts in front of me. Another consideration is setting the metering level. Check out this manual, should answer most of your questions and maybe a few you didnt know you had. For the diaphragm look to page 22.
http://wem.walbro.com/distributors/servicemanuals/ServiceManual.pdf

 

[USMC0802]

I would have to pull one apart to tell you. I dont take my carbs apart until I have replacement parts in front of me. Another consideration is setting the metering level. Check out this manual, should answer most of your questions and maybe a few you didnt know you had. For the diaphragm look to page 22.
http://wem.walbro.com/distributors/servicemanuals/ServiceManual.pdf

Thanks for the link. I'm sure I'll learn quite a bit from that. I have it all back together the way the pictured in the link I posted above.

 

[USMC0802]

Took the tank handle off today and put the plastics and clutch cover and some other bits and pieces in some soap water. I'll have to dig around the forum for a thread on how to bring faded plastics back to life. I got these cheap from an MS440 since it has the decomp opening and the plastics that came with the saw were usable, but broken. There was a hole in the top shroud and a corner pushed in on the filter cover.

Gave the saw a bit of a wipe down and I'll get an air compressor on it, probably tomorrow.

Here are a couple pics from today.

Intake side of the piston:

Here's the e-clip that's been a PIA. You can see how recessed it is. Yes, the scratches on the washer are from me trying to remove the e-clip. Not sure what the fibers are.

 

[fatjoe]

Something has gotten behind the washer and pushed it out against the C Clip.Its causing the groove.You need to get that nylon or whatever that frayed stuff is out of the back of the washer.It wore a groove into the washer so the clip can`t come out.Clean all that stuff out, and the washer will push back so you can prey the clip out.

 

[USMC0802]

Something has gotten behind the washer and pushed it out against the C Clip.Its causing the groove.You need to get that nylon or whatever that frayed stuff is out of the back of the washer.It wore a groove into the washer so the clip can`t come out.Clean all that stuff out, and the washer will push back so you can prey the clip out.

I'm wondering if it's fibers from contacting a set of chaps...I'll take a look this morning.

 

[USMC0802]

There doesn't seem to be much of a gap between the clutch drum and the washer. I don't see what would have caused the fit to be so tight to cause that kind of wear. I guess I could get the Dremel out with a cutoff wheel and take my time and avoid touching the crankshaft.

 

[fatjoe]

Your gonna find a heck of a mess in there I would imagine.All those components should move in and out freely.They should not feel bound up.That nylon crap has everything bound up.You have to get that clip off.I would try and pry between the washer and the clutch drum with one hand and use needle nose plyers with the other and start pulling the fibers out.Every little bit should help.Keep working it back and forth till there is enough room to get the c_clip off.

 

[fatjoe]

Also, make sure your chain brake isn`t engaged. Pull back on that.Sometimes it will be engaged and you don`t even know it.

 

[USMC0802]

Your gonna find a heck of a mess in there I would imagine.All those components should move in and out freely.They should not feel bound up.That nylon crap has everything bound up.You have to get that clip off.I would try and pry between the washer and the clutch drum with one hand and use needle nose plyers with the other and start pulling the fibers out.Every little bit should help.Keep working it back and forth till there is enough room to get the c_clip off.

The rim sprocket moves in and out just fine. Just not the washer and e-clip.

Also, make sure your chain brake isn`t engaged. Pull back on that.Sometimes it will be engaged and you don`t even know it.

Chain brake is off and clutch drum and all components spin freely.

 

[PA Plumber]

Yep, that washer should slide toward the drum just enough to get the e-clip off.

Bring it by, I'll help you get that off today!
It's probably only a couple of hour round trip.
Might be just a teensy bit cheaper to get a new e-clip.

 

[USMC0802]

Yep, that washer should slide toward the drum just enough to get the e-clip off.

Bring it by, I'll help you get that off today!
It's probably only a couple of hour round trip.
Might be just a teensy bit cheaper to get a new e-clip.

I'm in Lancaster County. Where are you in Pa?

 

[PA Plumber]

I'm in Lancaster County. Where are you in Pa?

I'll send a pm.

 

[USMC0802]

Flywheel puller arrived. That will come off while watching the Phillies after I feed my daughter.