Four hundred and fifty dollars worth please

[ChiHD]

quite a bit removed. Deadwood only makes you are a bargain @ $450.

is that supposed to be the same tree? if so is it taken from the same angle cause I cant see the evergreen in the second pic or the house?

 

[Wolfking42084]

It looks like in the bottom photo, the evergreen will be behind you. The big limb coming off the left side in the bottom pic is on the right side in the other.

 

[ChiHD]

Liontail

pic 2 liontailed much?

:camera:

 

[pdqdl]

Dan! Where are your truck signs?

If you are going to do good work, you should spread the word around. Get some signs! Check out my comments on this thread:

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=93098

Heck. Send me a note, give me some measurements, and I'll MAKE you a door sign. You shouldn't go around nameless. It ain't right.

 

[treemandan]

pic 2 liontailed much?

:camera:

Well, I only took out dead branches thankyou very much. I think its just the thing you take pictures with is not that good and you can see little stuff.

 

[Treecareconcept]

4.5 hours for $450 seems a bit low but im sure you realize that after reading your other posts. Did you really spur the tree or are you joking?

From the way you described it I would of most likely charged $700-$800 depending on difficulty. The pictures don't really show what you did clearly though.

$100 per hr in the market I'm in is pretty good for a two man climb crew. I try to bid stuff at least $90 per hr. But right now stuff is slow and with unemployment in this area at over 10% money is tight. Even my high end customers are watching every dollar. I think you hit it right. but that's just my opinion.

 

[ChiHD]

$100 per hr in the market I'm in is pretty good for a two man climb crew. I try to bid stuff at least $90 per hr. But right now stuff is slow and with unemployment in this area at over 10% money is tight. Even my high end customers are watching every dollar. I think you hit it right. but that's just my opinion.

I guess we are not feeling it here that much yet. i'll keep ya posted though.

 

[Greenstar]

I did 5 of those on Thursday in around 3.5 hours. No rigging, transferred from tree to tree for the first two, and was able to reach the third with the Hayauchi. On the fourth I came down to reset and did transferred to the fifth.

The only goof I had was when I got up into #4 I saw some some dead i needed the polesaw to get. Turned around and thought I could get the stuff over my head too. In my preclimb plan they I was going to climb out some laterals and then up towards my tie-in, then get those with the 020t.

Ouch, big but on my foot, big bruise on the arch metatarsals. For a few minutes I was worried about a break too. Self-insult to self-injury, I then followed my original climb plan and had that cut right in my face !d'Oh!

Try some quality full grain leather climbing boots. I use La Sportiva mountaineering boots. You'll pay $225, but they'll last you forever AND fit you like a glove after a year or two.
And a polesaw with extra blades on hand. I always have about 3 or 4 extra new blades on the dash now. Gilmour blades are only $13 ea. They're sharp as hell too. Take your arm off in one swipe. Save me a lot of extra work, and climbing all around uneccesarily. I just have to make sure the blade never rubs ladders or other pole saws and treat it like my regular saw, so it doesn't dull quick. Thats always the problem with most guys and their polesaws!!
Just make sure you don't hang it over your head! :greenchainsaw:

 

[Greenstar]

Yes i did but only when I had to go up, not when I was coming down.

:spam:

Spiking a live oak like that isn't cool. :jawdrop: At least in New England, there are a lot of oak problems now too especially. Thats uneccesary, I'm sorry.

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

Try some quality full grain leather climbing boots. I use La Sportiva mountaineering boots. You'll pay $225, but they'll last you forever AND fit you like a glove after a year or two.

I wear Vasque, near the same price, for that lib hitting my foot it would have taken a steel toung counter to have helped. Sticking to my original climb route would have made it all easier on the body as a whole too

I'm not a big polesaw fan, I'd rather climb out to make a cut, though that Silky Hayauchi does make me "cheat" from time to time. For durability I like a 12 foot basswood pole with a ARS non-hook balde, for which i keep a box of replacements in the toolbox. At $15 a pop it is not worth fighting a dull or bent one.

As for ladders...hate them...I'm almost all throwball and foot lock, unless I have someone else to move the ladder around for me. I can also transfer on a jamknot and ascender around 75% of the time, so I find taking a ladder off a truck more of a nuisance then not.

 

[pdqdl]

JPS: For that first ascent, do you SRT, do you pull up a TIP and then DRT, or do you isolate a DRT?

 

[M.Green - SVTS]

I am not trying to criticize your work but from the pictures, it almost seems like you left the buts from the limbs about 4 inches sticking out of the tree. I know Maple grows in a way that in some cases you have to cut them long but on an oak that large and in the spots you showed.

I could most likely be wrong and you did make the proper cuts. I am a big fan of Shigot and I value his opinions on proper tree maintenance more then some people who have been doing repeat work for 15 years watching there cuts heal.

 

[M.Green - SVTS]

Nevermind Dan,

I didn't know I could right click and zoom with my mouse until now. Great job they look great.

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

JPS: For that first ascent, do you SRT, do you pull up a TIP and then DRT, or do you isolate a DRT?

I DRT footlock with Mar-Bars, with my size i find that I need to crotch in too far down to make an effective SRT entry. Most of the time I'e tried it, I deflect the stem way too much for comfort. Then again, my entry TIP's give many the willies.

The rare occasions where I use SRT are when I have a limited area of the canopy to work, and it is a PITA to isolate my line.

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

I could most likely be wrong and you did make the proper cuts.

I would argue that some of the cuts were a wee bit too close, into collar wood. When deadwood mature trees it often looks like stubs were left due to the live wood being left.

Some argue that if there is an hourglass formation on live tissue, you can cut it at the "first collar" and be safe. I feel that we should wound as little as possible.

 

[treeclimber101]

pic 2 liontailed much?

:camera:

You know what why don't you post some of your work then we can all pick it apart , I think it takes big ##### to critique pictures. :bang:

 

[ChiHD]

You know what why don't you post some of your work then we can all pick it apart , I think it takes big ##### to critique pictures. :bang:

I'll give you a free pass on this one. It was a joke, and from my earlier posts you might of known. I appreciate all the pics that get posted as I know how tough it is to get good pics when there's work to be done.

Just to be clear, great job.

 

[treeclimber101]

:biggrinbounce2:

I'll give you a free pass on this one. It was a joke, and from my earlier posts you might of known. I appreciate all the pics that get posted as I know how tough it is to get good pics when there's work to be done.

Just to be clear, great job.

Thanks for the pass , i don't know what i would have done without it.

 

[Nailsbeats]

Dan, did you blow dry it when you were done?

 

[ChiHD]

:biggrinbounce2: Thanks for the pass , i don't know what i would have done without it.

your welcome