Free Poulans, need some help...

[cjb]

I don't doubt that the 2750 and the 2800 are the same basic saws.Many were rebadged and sold by Sears and Roebuck under the Craftsman name.

Actually for an inexpensive saw,they aren't too bad.The oilers for example actually do better than Stihls as far as oil output.

The danged things are real restrictive on the mufflers which kills their power output.If a person were real sly ,when the chainsaw police aren't watching and do a little work on the muffler,you can really wake them up.

Most of them came with a semi chisel ,long safety guard chain.Hang that thing on a nail and replace it with a loop of full chisel .325 .Between the muffler and the chain,you will see a great improvement in power and cut speed.

As I mentioned before that I ported a 2800 and it literaly cut two to one against a similar stock model that was about two years old .

I gotta tell you that I'm shocked to see that you could coax anything out of those saws. I had a 2.8 Crapsman one and someone who needed more problems stole it from me. I then bought a 3.3 ci Poulan out of necessity and I've fought it for a long, long time. If I thought I could make that 3.3 cut, I'd be tickled to death. I'm not trying to hijack this thread, but it seems to me that whatever the OP needs to do to modify his 2.8 would also help my 3.3. They look like nearly identical saws.

 

[Al Smith]

I gotta tell you that I'm shocked to see that you could coax anything out of those saws.

Oh,'taint a problem if you know what you are doing.

I have a thread on the proceedure on a far away site in cyberspace. I can't discuss the wherabouts of on this forum,D gets fussy about that stuff.

I would put it on here but there are already so many experts that know a lot more than me that I really don't want to argue with them because I didn't do it their exact way.Nor ,for that fact ,the exact method their "builder" would do it,whomever a builder is.

A little hint though,it's all in the exhaust and timing.

 

[scottr]

I gotta tell you that I'm shocked to see that you could coax anything out of those saws. I had a 2.8 Crapsman one and someone who needed more problems stole it from me. I then bought a 3.3 ci Poulan out of necessity and I've fought it for a long, long time. If I thought I could make that 3.3 cut, I'd be tickled to death. I'm not trying to hijack this thread, but it seems to me that whatever the OP needs to do to modify his 2.8 would also help my 3.3. They look like nearly identical saws.

cjb , if you look up the 2800 IPL on outdoordistributors the 3300 is also listed in the same drawing . The 3300 has a 54cc displacement , the 2800 is 46cc .

 

[cjb]

cjb , if you look up the 2800 IPL on outdoordistributors the 3300 is also listed in the same drawing . The 3300 has a 54cc displacement , the 2800 is 46cc .

I thought they were the same, pretty much. I know everything i've looked at on the two was identical.

 

[scottr]

I thought they were the same, pretty much. I know everything i've looked at on the two was identical.

cjb , I remember member tony marks saying that his 2750 would about take your arm off when trying to crank it . Did your 2800 do that ?

 

[cjb]

I don't remember my 2800 that well anymore, but I still own the 3300. The compression is seems good for that size saw, but I wouldn't consider it extreme.

 

[WildnCrazyGuy]

I don't remember my 2800 that well anymore, but I still own the 3300. The compression is seems good for that size saw, but I wouldn't consider it extreme.

That was me on the 2750 taking your arm off. While I'm not in as good a shape as I was 20 years ago, I did bench over 300lbs and pull my weight with the best of them. Still feel like I'm a pretty strong guy now, just haven't been doing what I was years ago. With that said, this 2750 was very hard to crank when I got it last week. As I cleaned it up and ran it a little, I noticed that it seems a bit easier to pull. Maybe there was rust in the cylinder or something along those lines that made it more difficult. Now that it's been run a bit and with lubrication in the cylinder, maybe that has helped it. Who knows? You still have to hold it a bit firm though or it'll try to get you. I mean I drop start, which isn't recommended of coarse, but it's how I always started a saw. When this 2750 was so hard in the beginning, I did start setting it on the ground with my foot in it and pull. Seemed actually easier that way. Now, after about a week, I seem to be able to drop start it again with fewer worries.:greenchainsaw:

 

[scottr]

That was me on the 2750 taking your arm off. While I'm not in as good a shape as I was 20 years ago, I did bench over 300lbs and pull my weight with the best of them. Still feel like I'm a pretty strong guy now, just haven't been doing what I was years ago. With that said, this 2750 was very hard to crank when I got it last week. As I cleaned it up and ran it a little, I noticed that it seems a bit easier to pull. Maybe there was rust in the cylinder or something along those lines that made it more difficult. Now that it's been run a bit and with lubrication in the cylinder, maybe that has helped it. Who knows? You still have to hold it a bit firm though or it'll try to get you. I mean I drop start, which isn't recommended of coarse, but it's how I always started a saw. When this 2750 was so hard in the beginning, I did start setting it on the ground with my foot in it and pull. Seemed actually easier that way. Now, after about a week, I seem to be able to drop start it again with fewer worries.:greenchainsaw:

Hey Guy , is it only hard to crank when it's on full choke or on fast idle ? My PP220 would get difficult when hot . After I opened the exhaust outlet and adjusted the carb it seemed to stop being difficult .

 

[WildnCrazyGuy]

Hey Guy , is it only hard to crank when it's on full choke or on fast idle ? My PP220 would get difficult when hot . After I opened the exhaust outlet and adjusted the carb it seemed to stop being difficult .

Maybe after I got the carb adjusted to run better is when it stopped being so difficult. When it first fired up and I started getting the carb adjusted, it was way something. (rich, lean, not sure, but it was like the trigger was half depressed, idling very high.) As far as when it was hard, I don't recall that it mattered how the buttons were pushed, just that drop starting was difficult. Drop starting it still you have to be on your toes, so it has good compression, but it's much better than when I got it. Maybe I've just adjusted as well, who knows.

 

[scottr]

Maybe after I got the carb adjusted to run better is when it stopped being so difficult. When it first fired up and I started getting the carb adjusted, it was way something. (rich, lean, not sure, but it was like the trigger was half depressed, idling very high.) As far as when it was hard, I don't recall that it mattered how the buttons were pushed, just that drop starting was difficult. Drop starting it still you have to be on your toes, so it has good compression, but it's much better than when I got it. Maybe I've just adjusted as well, who knows.

My PP220 is on fast idle when it starts and the throttle needs to be blipped to return to normal idle . The fast idle position is automatically set when you pull out choke and push it back in . I'll guess that your 2750 is the same .

 

[Al Smith]

My PP220 is on fast idle when it starts and the throttle needs to be blipped to return to normal idle . The fast idle position is automatically set when you pull out choke and push it back in . I'll guess that your 2750 is the same .

Actually the 2800 also released fast idle and released the choke when you hit the throttle.Most Stihls also release the fast idle but not the choke.

 

[WildnCrazyGuy]

My PP220 is on fast idle when it starts and the throttle needs to be blipped to return to normal idle . The fast idle position is automatically set when you pull out choke and push it back in . I'll guess that your 2750 is the same .

(rich, lean, not sure, but it was like the trigger was half depressed, idling very high.)

Sorry, I mean it was like that after the throttle blip. Way out of adjustment for some reason, but it's been several years since it has been run... I did spray carb cleaner through the carb. Both the 210 and the 2750 probably wouldn't hurt to get carb kits, but I think they are pretty clean and run very well now. Idle very consistent and have good throttle response.

I need to get a tach to make sure of what I did. Have been thinking about getting the Stihl tach for 2 and 4 stroke. It's pricey at around 150.00 the dealer is asking for it, but probably worth it to check what I've done. Problem is, at least on these two Poulans, I can't find the idle and max rpm's anywhere. It looks like Poulan is very secretive on who they give that info to. I know Stihl is as well for most things, but at least you can find some of the info you need.

I've got a couple of blowers, weed trimmer, 4 chainsaws, 2 more of my dad's saws, and a bunch of dad's other 2 stoke equipment I could use the tach on, so probably not a bad investment. Especially when you consider the cost of blowing something up and having to replace it.

 

[scottr]

Hey Guy , check your private messages .

 

[scottr]

muffler rust

To follow up. As promised, pics of my new saws. I did get the fuel line through the hole finally this past Saturday. I bought a roll of 28 gauge wire and used it like my fishing line that kept breaking. Funny thing, steel is stronger than plastic. :biggrinbounce2: I was able to get that line in the tank in probably less than a minute from start to finish...

Here's the pics of the Poulan Pro 210. The bar has a very slight bend in it, but it seems to be ok. Chain didn't miss a beat while I was tuning it. Will keep my eye on it in the future.

Anything I'm missing that I might try to get that rust off the mufflers? I cleaned them pretty well, but still rusty.

OSPHO is a chemical that turns iron oxide to iron phosphate . Don't know what it will do when you heat up the muffler . http://www.ospho.com

 

[WildnCrazyGuy]

OSPHO is a chemical that turns iron oxide to iron phosphate . Don't know what it will do when you heat up the muffler . http://www.ospho.com

Scott. Thanks. But I found some stuff that did a remarkable job on rust. It's called Evaporust. Only problem is it took the sort of "Blueing" or whatever the coating is that's on the muffler to begin with, so I had to paint it with some 1200 degree exhaust paint. Looks ok, don't know how well it will hold up. I'll post pics of before and after when I get a chance.

On to a new subject. I got this little green 2150 and have been fixing it up. I've already spent more than I wanted to, but on Sunday I was ready to test it out. Needed new fuel lines of coarse, a new gas filler cap because the original was leaking. I spent about 13 dollars on the bar cover that goes with the Poulan case that the lady couldn't find... Anyway, I fired it up and it sounds like it's tuned pretty good. Idles and responds well. BUT... I got no oil coming out to the chain.

I searched and found a few oiling suggestions on here I will have to try, but what I did already was put some gas in the oil tank, after dumping the oil, and fired it up and at first nothing, then after running WOT for a few seconds, I got a little gas flowing. I blew the area with compressed air and got a lot of gas to come out the hole with the air, so I figured I was ok. Put the oil back in and got a very small amount to trickle out. Ran it a few seconds on WOT and still a very small amount. I did do a little test on a stump I had been wanting to use this on and no more stump in no time, so I hope if I can get this oiler working, it'll be a good little "stumper" saw...

I would like to take it apart and see if there is gummy stuff which I suspect in the gears or something. I looked and the parts to replace both inside and outside oiler stuff is like $12.00. Looks like not a lot of money to replace the whole thing if necessary, but how do you get the clutch and sprocket off to access the area? Looks like I need a special tool or something. Any hints or suggestions?

What is involved with replacing the oiler on a Poulan? Is it going to be one of those 3 or 4 hour things that I wish I had not started, or should it be a 15 to 30 minute job, sort of no big deal? Thanks.

 

[Al Smith]

?

What is involved with replacing the oiler on a Poulan? Is it going to be one of those 3 or 4 hour things that I wish I had not started, or should it be a 15 to 30 minute job, sort of no big deal? Thanks.

Depends on which Poulan.If the oiler is a gear driven job like on the 2800 all you have to do is unbolt it,not a big deal.If however it's like the s-25 you have to remove the flywheel to get to it.

Some of the early ones used a presuureized deal that was on the clutch side.

If the thing has a gear driven one,like the 2800 often times the four bolts that hold the engine to the framework become loose for some reason.This in turn will cause the pump gears to not properly engage .

 

[scottr]

Depends on which Poulan.If the oiler is a gear driven job like on the 2800 all you have to do is unbolt it,not a big deal.If however it's like the s-25 you have to remove the flywheel to get to it.

Some of the early ones used a presuureized deal that was on the clutch side.

If the thing has a gear driven one,like the 2800 often times the four bolts that hold the engine to the framework become loose for some reason.This in turn will cause the pump gears to not properly engage .

Al , he's now working on a Poulan 2150 that has a gear driven oiler .

 

[scottr]

Scott. Thanks. But I found some stuff that did a remarkable job on rust. It's called Evaporust. Only problem is it took the sort of "Blueing" or whatever the coating is that's on the muffler to begin with, so I had to paint it with some 1200 degree exhaust paint. Looks ok, don't know how well it will hold up. I'll post pics of before and after when I get a chance.

On to a new subject. I got this little green 2150 and have been fixing it up. I've already spent more than I wanted to, but on Sunday I was ready to test it out. Needed new fuel lines of coarse, a new gas filler cap because the original was leaking. I spent about 13 dollars on the bar cover that goes with the Poulan case that the lady couldn't find... Anyway, I fired it up and it sounds like it's tuned pretty good. Idles and responds well. BUT... I got no oil coming out to the chain.

I searched and found a few oiling suggestions on here I will have to try, but what I did already was put some gas in the oil tank, after dumping the oil, and fired it up and at first nothing, then after running WOT for a few seconds, I got a little gas flowing. I blew the area with compressed air and got a lot of gas to come out the hole with the air, so I figured I was ok. Put the oil back in and got a very small amount to trickle out. Ran it a few seconds on WOT and still a very small amount. I did do a little test on a stump I had been wanting to use this on and no more stump in no time, so I hope if I can get this oiler working, it'll be a good little "stumper" saw...

I would like to take it apart and see if there is gummy stuff which I suspect in the gears or something. I looked and the parts to replace both inside and outside oiler stuff is like $12.00. Looks like not a lot of money to replace the whole thing if necessary, but how do you get the clutch and sprocket off to access the area? Looks like I need a special tool or something. Any hints or suggestions?

What is involved with replacing the oiler on a Poulan? Is it going to be one of those 3 or 4 hour things that I wish I had not started, or should it be a 15 to 30 minute job, sort of no big deal? Thanks.

Here's a thread that will help . http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=41351

 

[WildnCrazyGuy]

Here's a pic of a foam like washer that I don't know what it does. It got eaten up by the worm gear for the oiler.

 

[scottr]

Here's a pic of a foam like washer that I don't know what it does. It got eaten up by the worm gear for the oiler.

I tried the right click and then clicked 'show picture' but no picture . Just a box with a red X .