LegDeLimber
Addicted to ArboristSite
big t double:
is the purpose of the doggie bone to reduce weight or does it somehow affect chip flow?
Moparmyway:
I see it as 3 fold.
1. Less weight
2. More room for wood to be pulled out from the cut
3. Lower drag profile for faster chain speed
Has anyone gone so far as to try shaving the rivet heads and then "re-spin" the chain
in an effort to hide the sanding/filing marks?
Bearing in mind that a quick check with calipers would reveal any substantial metal removal.
As for the weight reduction thing I wandered about also dimpling out the central region of the of the side plates.
How about taking an oregon style chain with the stamped dimple side plates,
Lub-link or whichever name used and then dressing the outer face flat?
This brings back hearing rumors of a few of the antic of the flathead 5hp briggs, cart racers.
supposedly cutting two cranks and re-assembling into one, just to get a point lobe
indexed a bit early (simply welding and re-grinding was too easy to spot).
Never personally saw any, So I don't know how successful of a job could have been done.
I always wondered if a fellow could burnish in that joint to make it harder to see
and I figure it would take someone like a pretty slick gunsmith to try making that union.and get the indexing correct.
this was nearly 30 years ago without all the computerized machining we now have.
Carefully shaving out a bit of weight from a flywheel (think like a port job) and then a mild caustic rinse, to hide the work.
Re-ginding cam shafts to a slightly smaller base circle then knock a bit off the lobe
top and contour the whole thing in for a bit more duration yet showing no increased lift
if a tech just pulls the head and only checks valve lift.
Of course there was also talk of doped oils.
is the purpose of the doggie bone to reduce weight or does it somehow affect chip flow?
Moparmyway:
I see it as 3 fold.
1. Less weight
2. More room for wood to be pulled out from the cut
3. Lower drag profile for faster chain speed
Has anyone gone so far as to try shaving the rivet heads and then "re-spin" the chain
in an effort to hide the sanding/filing marks?
Bearing in mind that a quick check with calipers would reveal any substantial metal removal.
As for the weight reduction thing I wandered about also dimpling out the central region of the of the side plates.
How about taking an oregon style chain with the stamped dimple side plates,
Lub-link or whichever name used and then dressing the outer face flat?
This brings back hearing rumors of a few of the antic of the flathead 5hp briggs, cart racers.
supposedly cutting two cranks and re-assembling into one, just to get a point lobe
indexed a bit early (simply welding and re-grinding was too easy to spot).
Never personally saw any, So I don't know how successful of a job could have been done.
I always wondered if a fellow could burnish in that joint to make it harder to see
and I figure it would take someone like a pretty slick gunsmith to try making that union.and get the indexing correct.
this was nearly 30 years ago without all the computerized machining we now have.
Carefully shaving out a bit of weight from a flywheel (think like a port job) and then a mild caustic rinse, to hide the work.
Re-ginding cam shafts to a slightly smaller base circle then knock a bit off the lobe
top and contour the whole thing in for a bit more duration yet showing no increased lift
if a tech just pulls the head and only checks valve lift.
Of course there was also talk of doped oils.
