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once in a while my chains do this for some reason ,still do not know why ,this is below a fir i cut down ,this was not a noodling cut View attachment 378847
That's the goal every time.

If I'm cutting green trees, I expect 2"-3" (intermingled )chips or I get miffed.

I'm happy with 1/2"-1" in dead hard stuff.

I look at saw teeth a lot like lathe tooling. A lot of the inserts have chip breakers on them to stop long chips from forming. I think that a dirty gullet may prevent longer chips from forming. . . I also think that it's a function of your raker setup as well.
 
That's the goal every time.

If I'm cutting green trees, I expect 2"-3" (intermingled )chips or I get miffed.

I'm happy with 1/2"-1" in dead hard stuff.

I look at saw teeth a lot like lathe tooling. A lot of the inserts have chip breakers on them to stop long chips from forming. I think that a dirty gullet may prevent longer chips from forming. . . I also think that it's a function of your raker setup as well.
I only get those sometimes in fir ,once in a while wet alder ,if it is dry 1/2-3/4 inch chips are common ,falling cedar ,i might get 3/4 to 1 inch max ,that fir was pretty wet ,cut in winter when get lots of rain
 
Pondy Pine is softer than our Dougy Fir. As is the Lodgepole and White Pine.

Our growth rates are slower from long winters, closer rings makes harder wood. Even in what are traditionally considered softwoods.

I cut a 20" dead standing DF that was over 200 years old.

Nate Waldren got a taste of our fir at my gtg. He couldn't believe how much tougher it was compared to the coast.
 
Pondy Pine is softer than our Dougy Fir. As is the Lodgepole and White Pine.

Our growth rates are slower from long winters, closer rings makes harder wood. Even in what are traditionally considered softwoods.

I cut a 20" dead standing DF that was over 200 years old.

Nate Waldren got a taste of our fir at my gtg. He couldn't believe how much tougher it was compared to the coast.
those are the ones simpson door company pays good money for to make veneer for the doors ,all the ones i cut have big rings on outer edge ,get tighter in center
 
All our trees pretty much suck...
It's hard to even get 1 single consistant stick...
Maybe Alan knows what kind of pine that was...
Gooey Pine...
Sure smelled good though...
That's one bonus to all our conifers. It smells awesome to cut wood!

I've cut some elm, and it literally smells like cow piss. I've heard the same about red oak and others.
 
I am completely new to race chains so I have no preconceived ideas on what makes a fast chain. As mentioned earlier the stock chains did well again, coming from factory every cutter is pretty much identical. Making each cutter as close to identical as possible seemed to get the best results. Mdavlee full comp chain hedge bragged on as soon as it came out of the pine cut. Said it was smooth with a good pull.
The hackberry was a lot smaller, it measured 14" at widest part but at narrowest was probably less than ten. It did have a hard dark center.



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The extra work done to the chassis and all didn't seem to have any effect on how the chain did it was mainly about the cutters and a little about raker height.


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It did!
We came up on 3 big pine knots.. We had to take a couple cuts off it to get rid of them and continue on.
The times going through those nots added at least 2 seconds and sometimes 3. We retested after getting through knots. You could literally see the bar slow down when it hit the knots.


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If I were going to make a race chain I would focus on cutters and the cutting edge, but first I need to learn how to square file.
If you look at the bottom of the list that will probably be the chain I personally go to for most all my use. I cut firewood and most of it in the woods on mainly rocky terrain and dirty wood.


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