7oaks
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Nice
FYI - Northern Chainsaw Sharpener
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coloradotrout
ArboristSite Member
If someone knows how to make this show w/o clicking the attachment, let me know. Others get pictures to show inline, but I have not figured that out yet.
7oaks
DRUGSTORE LOGGER
Here it is. You are more than half way there once you've gotten this far. Click on the link then copy the ip address then paste it into your message using the screen looking icon at the top of the message bar.
You will get a screen that prompts you to make a choice. Click on "from URL". Then paste the copied URL into the space. Next MAKE sure you DESELECT (uncheck) the option to "retrieve remote file and referendce locally"
VOILA!
You can also do a search on how to insert pics and several members have given detailed insturtions.
coloradotrout
ArboristSite Member
Has anyone come up with a mod to take out the play in the motor arm pivot? At the tip of the wheel there is close to 1/16" of play.
parrisw
Tree Freak
Easy, bore it out machine some brass bushings and put back together.
coloradotrout
ArboristSite Member
No metalworking experience here -- but willing to get some.
Ok -- bore it out. I have a drill press - will that work?
"machine brass bushings" -- Ok, that sounds a bit more challenging. Tips?
Ok -- bore it out. I have a drill press - will that work?
"machine brass bushings" -- Ok, that sounds a bit more challenging. Tips?
parrisw
Tree Freak
Well, I haven't done anything to the pivot on my machine. But if its worn, you'd have to bore out where the pivot pin is to accept a bushing to fit the pivot pin. I would bore it out with a Ream, then machine bushings on my lathe. Yes you could use a drill press to bore it out with a ream or just a drill.
racer1970
ArboristSite Member
add on mod.... to keep the filing metal dust too a min I put an old speaker magnet behind the chain area to catch all the dust works well for keeping everything clean, sure it should work for other grinders as well.
coloradotrout
ArboristSite Member
Without the right tools it seems like I could make the problem worse. Because that pin is friction fit, not sure there is even a way to build up the pin to fit a bit more snug through the motor assembly.
racer1970
ArboristSite Member
Something like this?
(Photo from treemonkey's shop in Wisconsin)
Philbert
Yes it does work great, and WoW that thing has more hair than I do...lol
Yeah, just because it collects the filings, it doesn't mean that you can't empty it now and then!
Philbert
racer1970
ArboristSite Member
it is kinda fun to watch it grow... kinda like a gray chia pet... lol
beelsr
ArboristSite Guru
Pulling the grinder out from under the workbench after a couple years hiatus and a quick check of the thread to see what's new.
Using page #s for references is not the best way to do it; this is because you can have different numbers of posts per page. For example, the default is 15 posts per page but I use 100. If you have a fast internet connection and a hatred of clicking the mouse, you might want to bump up the posts per page. It's in the settings (top-right of every page when you're logged in; then, near the bottom; don't forget to click save if you change it). Anyways...
I added post #s to the excellent summary of mods table. Plus added some mods that aren't in the table. A couple mods have multiple posts discussing them, as noted.
- Post 615 also talks about sharpie marking your own angles (or the correct angles) on the scale. Obvious, but worth pointing out because on mine, the scale was (way) off as well.
- Post 697 also talks about adding flat washers underneath the cupped washer to improve the clamping force.
- Post 692 talks about using hot glue to fix the vise shims, adjustable chain rail spacers and a chain stop modification (that would be nice to have a pic of).
- Posts 728 and 741 are another example of cleaning up the base, albeit on the Poulan version. :msp_tongue: I can say that Harbor Freight cable ties work just as well.
- Post 790 shows using a magnet to catch grinding dust. Useful.
- Also, post #1 in the Northern Hyd Grinder, making it work (pics) thread is another good overview of the swivel base and chain stop mods.
Another mod seen in other threads is using a small bungee to limit the motor arm's upward travel. This might be better than the bolt stop method since it will put less stress on the motor arm pivot because it's a softer stop method. I also experimented with pieces of foam and rubber in the hinge but never came up with anything satisfactory.
Using page #s for references is not the best way to do it; this is because you can have different numbers of posts per page. For example, the default is 15 posts per page but I use 100. If you have a fast internet connection and a hatred of clicking the mouse, you might want to bump up the posts per page. It's in the settings (top-right of every page when you're logged in; then, near the bottom; don't forget to click save if you change it). Anyways...
I added post #s to the excellent summary of mods table. Plus added some mods that aren't in the table. A couple mods have multiple posts discussing them, as noted.
- Post 615 also talks about sharpie marking your own angles (or the correct angles) on the scale. Obvious, but worth pointing out because on mine, the scale was (way) off as well.
- Post 697 also talks about adding flat washers underneath the cupped washer to improve the clamping force.
- Post 692 talks about using hot glue to fix the vise shims, adjustable chain rail spacers and a chain stop modification (that would be nice to have a pic of).
- Posts 728 and 741 are another example of cleaning up the base, albeit on the Poulan version. :msp_tongue: I can say that Harbor Freight cable ties work just as well.
- Post 790 shows using a magnet to catch grinding dust. Useful.
- Also, post #1 in the Northern Hyd Grinder, making it work (pics) thread is another good overview of the swivel base and chain stop mods.
Another mod seen in other threads is using a small bungee to limit the motor arm's upward travel. This might be better than the bolt stop method since it will put less stress on the motor arm pivot because it's a softer stop method. I also experimented with pieces of foam and rubber in the hinge but never came up with anything satisfactory.
gemniii
Addicted to ArboristSite
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Good timing with this thread, by coincidence I just fired mine up for "spring sharpening". I've got about 20 chains and as I've wrote my routine is sharpen (touch up) several times by hand, then use my Granberg File-N-Joint, repeat three hand filings, Granberg File-N-Joint, then again, then take them to the grinder.
Seems every year less is getting ground on the grinder, my hand filing is improving.
Thanks for the matrix on tips!
Seems every year less is getting ground on the grinder, my hand filing is improving.
Thanks for the matrix on tips!
Sagetown
Farmer and a STIHL
I need to add some more note to the notes I've already got. Great bunch of INFO here.
[email protected]
New Member
My problem is getting it to hold the 10 degree tilt.
My problem is getting it to hold the 10 degree tilt. Would the shim kit help? Were you able to find the shim kit?
My problem is getting it to hold the 10 degree tilt. Would the shim kit help? Were you able to find the shim kit?
coloradotrout
ArboristSite Member
Please scroll down..
Summary of Mods provided by AS Members. The "Link" in the far right hand column will take you to the post.
<table border="1">
<tr><td>Description</td><td>Page</td><td>Post #</td><td>Value</td><td>Click Here</td></tr>
<tr><td>vice shim - without this I could not get even close to consistent cutter length</td><td>13</td><td>187</td><td>Huge</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-13.htm#post555793" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>vice washer - maybe if you grind a lot of chains and want to preserve the moving aluminum parts better</td><td>13</td><td>187</td><td>Low</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-13.htm#post555793" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>put a light spring on the chain stop to hold it down</td><td>13</td><td>188</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-13.htm#post555795" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>file down a tab on the casting on the motor mount right above the bolt hole. </td><td>13</td><td>187</td><td>High</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-13.htm#post555793" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>file down the washer and rounded casting on the bottom side of the vise casting (more important if you use the 10 degree tilt)</td><td>13</td><td>188</td><td>High</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-13.htm#post555795" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>take play out of the chain stop</td><td>32</td><td>480, 489, 492, 497</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-32.htm#post622415" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>file down the casting of the motor arm bracket that joins the base. There are 4 nibs around the pivot pin.</td><td>47</td><td>697</td><td>High</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-47.htm#post1538191" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>add the motor arm swing adjustment bolt (mine has the hole tapped, but no bolt). This just keeps the motor from swinging so far up, but since it's off to one side, it seems it would tend to apply some twist to the already loose motor pivot pin</td><td>41</td><td>615, 679</td><td>Low</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-41.htm#post876466" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>tighten up the chain guide, file/smooth while it's apart</td><td>47</td><td>697</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-47.htm#post1538191" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>file down the rounded casting on the bottom side of the vise casting (more important if you use the 10 degree tilt)</td><td>47</td><td>697</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-47.htm#post1538191" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>take out the play in the motor piviot pin/bushing/casting -- anyone done this??</td><td></td><td></td><td>Med</td><td><a href="" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>mark custom/accurate angles with Sharpie</td><td>41</td><td>615</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-41.htm#post876466" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>add flat washers underneath the cupped washer to improve the clamping force.</td><td>47</td><td>697</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-47.htm#post1538191" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>use hot glue to fix the vise shims, adjustable chain rail spacers and a chain stop modification (that would be nice to have a pic of).</td><td>47</td><td>692</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-47.htm#post1486595" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>another example of cleaning up the base, albeit on the Poulan version</td><td></td><td>728, 741</td><td>High</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-49.htm#post1956563" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>use a magnet to catch grinding dust</td><td>53</td><td>790</td><td>Low</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-53.htm#post3569226" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>swivel base and chain stop info</td><td></td><td></td><td>High</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/40844.htm#post541928" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
</table>
Summary of Mods provided by AS Members. The "Link" in the far right hand column will take you to the post.
<table border="1">
<tr><td>Description</td><td>Page</td><td>Post #</td><td>Value</td><td>Click Here</td></tr>
<tr><td>vice shim - without this I could not get even close to consistent cutter length</td><td>13</td><td>187</td><td>Huge</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-13.htm#post555793" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>vice washer - maybe if you grind a lot of chains and want to preserve the moving aluminum parts better</td><td>13</td><td>187</td><td>Low</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-13.htm#post555793" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>put a light spring on the chain stop to hold it down</td><td>13</td><td>188</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-13.htm#post555795" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>file down a tab on the casting on the motor mount right above the bolt hole. </td><td>13</td><td>187</td><td>High</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-13.htm#post555793" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>file down the washer and rounded casting on the bottom side of the vise casting (more important if you use the 10 degree tilt)</td><td>13</td><td>188</td><td>High</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-13.htm#post555795" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>take play out of the chain stop</td><td>32</td><td>480, 489, 492, 497</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-32.htm#post622415" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>file down the casting of the motor arm bracket that joins the base. There are 4 nibs around the pivot pin.</td><td>47</td><td>697</td><td>High</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-47.htm#post1538191" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>add the motor arm swing adjustment bolt (mine has the hole tapped, but no bolt). This just keeps the motor from swinging so far up, but since it's off to one side, it seems it would tend to apply some twist to the already loose motor pivot pin</td><td>41</td><td>615, 679</td><td>Low</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-41.htm#post876466" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>tighten up the chain guide, file/smooth while it's apart</td><td>47</td><td>697</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-47.htm#post1538191" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>file down the rounded casting on the bottom side of the vise casting (more important if you use the 10 degree tilt)</td><td>47</td><td>697</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-47.htm#post1538191" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>take out the play in the motor piviot pin/bushing/casting -- anyone done this??</td><td></td><td></td><td>Med</td><td><a href="" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>mark custom/accurate angles with Sharpie</td><td>41</td><td>615</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-41.htm#post876466" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>add flat washers underneath the cupped washer to improve the clamping force.</td><td>47</td><td>697</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-47.htm#post1538191" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>use hot glue to fix the vise shims, adjustable chain rail spacers and a chain stop modification (that would be nice to have a pic of).</td><td>47</td><td>692</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-47.htm#post1486595" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>another example of cleaning up the base, albeit on the Poulan version</td><td></td><td>728, 741</td><td>High</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-49.htm#post1956563" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>use a magnet to catch grinding dust</td><td>53</td><td>790</td><td>Low</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-53.htm#post3569226" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>swivel base and chain stop info</td><td></td><td></td><td>High</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/40844.htm#post541928" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
</table>
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This is EXTREMELY helpful! Thank you on behalf of all the AS members and browsers who will benefit.
As far as links, if you navigate to the correct page, copy the http:// . . . . stuff at the top of the page, and paste it after or below your 'description', it will post as a link to that specific page, although, not that specific post.
Philbert
coloradotrout
ArboristSite Member
Thank you -- I found the info so valuable, I had to do what little I could. I was using the grinder yesterday -- and still fiddling with getting the chain in the center, etc. There is still a learning curve once all the "tweaks" are done, but it's vastly improved vs what I got out of the box. I need to add the spring to take the play out of the chain stop -- and I need to adjust the vise to center the chain more accurately. The motor-to-house pivot has some slop, and so in my experience I just need to ease down on the motor when grinding and not apply excessive force, or it's going to move the wheel quite a bit. You can see that if you just watch a still wheel and push left or right a bit. It moves at least 1/16" or more.
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