FYI - Northern Chainsaw Sharpener

[beelsr]

I hope the links work correctly, but they seem to use the page numbers and as someone else noted, members can set the number of posts per page in their profile. If the profile is default -- it should take you right to the page in a new window. If you have increased or decreased the number of posts you see - my link may be off.

Great job!

The easiest way to get the url for the post is to right-click | copy on the post # in the top right of the header of the post (date's on the left, post # all the way over on the right). that will load the thread at the specific post. For example, post #187 is http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-2.htm#post555793

the post #is not specific to the thread so there's no easy way to "just add x to get to the #+x post".

 

[coloradotrout]

Done.. enjoy..

Great job!

The easiest way to get the url for the post is to right-click | copy on the post # in the top right of the header of the post (date's on the left, post # all the way over on the right). that will load the thread at the specific post. For example, post #187 is http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-2.htm#post555793

the post #is not specific to the thread so there's no easy way to "just add x to get to the #+x post".

 

[7oaks]

Great job. Tried to rep ya but told I need to spread it around. I'm sure a lot of our buddies will give some. Thanks!

 

[coloradotrout]

Summary of Modifications by AS Members
<table>
<tr><td>Description</td><td>Page</td><td>Post #</td><td>Value</td><td>Click Here</td></tr>
<tr><td>vice shim - without this I could not get even close to consistent cutter length</td><td>13</td><td>187</td><td>Huge</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-13.htm#post555793" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>vice washer - maybe if you grind a lot of chains and want to preserve the moving aluminum parts better</td><td>13</td><td>187</td><td>Low</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-13.htm#post555793" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>put a light spring on the chain stop to hold it down</td><td>13</td><td>188</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-13.htm#post555795" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>file down a tab on the casting on the motor mount right above the bolt hole. </td><td>13</td><td>187</td><td>High</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-13.htm#post555793" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>file down the washer and rounded casting on the bottom side of the vise casting (more important if you use the 10 degree tilt)</td><td>13</td><td>188</td><td>High</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-13.htm#post555795" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>take play out of the chain stop</td><td>32</td><td>480, 489, 492, 497</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-32.htm#post622415" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>file down the casting of the motor arm bracket that joins the base. There are 4 nibs around the pivot pin.</td><td>47</td><td>697</td><td>High</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-47.htm#post1538191" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>add the motor arm swing adjustment bolt (mine has the hole tapped, but no bolt). This just keeps the motor from swinging so far up, but since it's off to one side, it seems it would tend to apply some twist to the already loose motor pivot pin</td><td>41</td><td>615, 679</td><td>Low</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-41.htm#post876466" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>tighten up the chain guide, file/smooth while it's apart</td><td>47</td><td>697</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-47.htm#post1538191" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>file down the rounded casting on the bottom side of the vise casting (more important if you use the 10 degree tilt)</td><td>47</td><td>697</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-47.htm#post1538191" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>take out the play in the motor piviot pin/bushing/casting -- anyone done this??</td><td></td><td></td><td>Med</td><td><a href="" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>mark custom/accurate angles with Sharpie</td><td>41</td><td>615</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-41.htm#post876466" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>add flat washers underneath the cupped washer to improve the clamping force.</td><td>47</td><td>697</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-47.htm#post1538191" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>use hot glue to fix the vise shims, adjustable chain rail spacers and a chain stop modification (that would be nice to have a pic of).</td><td>47</td><td>692</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-47.htm#post1486595" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>another example of cleaning up the base, albeit on the Poulan version</td><td></td><td>728, 741</td><td>High</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-49.htm#post1956563" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>use a magnet to catch grinding dust</td><td>53</td><td>790</td><td>Low</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-53.htm#post3569226" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>swivel base and chain stop info</td><td></td><td></td><td>High</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/40844.htm#post541928" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>My 2 cents on firming up the chain stop</td><td></td><td></td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/40844-post4236301.htm#post4236301" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
</table>

 

[coloradotrout]

Hmm.. sometimes the links work, sometimes not.
If not -- try just hitting 'enter' or reload the web page on the new tab/window.

 

[Philbert]

Hmm.. sometimes the links work, sometimes not. If not -- try just hitting 'enter' or reload the web page on the new tab/window.

??? So, ya sayin' that even the LINKS need a little shimming to work right???

Philbert

 

[deezlfan]

Here's an update regarding my grinder. When I first got my grinder, I found these nubs inside each rail. They touch each other and I assume the idea is that the rails pivot on the nubs and this will allow the rails to close on all thickness' of chain. Really inconsistant and very hard to get the rails to close properly and hold each tooth in the same position. As you can see, I tried filing them flat, but did not see any improvement. Instead I turned one rail around, filed down the nub slightly and used the through bolts each hold a thin washer. I only grind .050 gage chain so I tightened the gap so it is very snug on the drive links.

Next, a Harbor Freight spring was installed on the chain stop, The bottom hooked over the pivot spring leg on the bottom and the top installed in the existing hole in the stop. The circular spring was also changed with a spring from the same assortment box.

I found I needed to slightly widen the end of the rails to make it easier to slide the chain. This was done by adding a slightly thicker washer on the last bolt.

Next came the rail tightener pivot. This thing flopped around until I removed the snap ring and handle, followed by the pivot itself. Then locktite was added to the threads and the stud tightened with a deep well socket. then I reinstalled the handle and snap ring.

I am also considering drilling holes in the swivel plate and base at 30 degrees. The marking on my grinder are fairly accurate but my eyesight challanges me every time I have to switch sides. A set of holes I could drop a pin in would make that much quicker and easier. I have to look and see if I can find a good location for that.

 

[coloradotrout]

Modifications Summary -- Links take you to posts.

(If the link does not take you right to the post, trying pressing enter or reloading the page that is in the new tab/window).

<table borders="1"><tr><td>Description</td><td>Page</td><td>Post #</td><td>Value</td><td>Click Here</td></tr>
<tr><td>Vice shim - without this I could not get even close to consistent cutter length</td><td>13</td><td>187</td><td>Huge</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-13.htm#post555793" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>Vice washer - if you grind a lot of chains and want to preserve the moving aluminum parts better</td><td>13</td><td>187</td><td>Low</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-13.htm#post555793" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>Light spring on the chain stop to hold it down</td><td>13</td><td>188</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-13.htm#post555795" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>File down a tab on the casting on the motor mount right above the bolt hole. </td><td>13</td><td>187</td><td>High</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-13.htm#post555793" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>File down the washer and rounded casting on the bottom side of the vise casting (more important if you use the 10 degree tilt)</td><td>13</td><td>188</td><td>High</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-13.htm#post555795" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>Take some play out of the chain stop</td><td>32</td><td>480, 489, 492, 497</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-32.htm#post622415" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>File down the casting of the motor arm bracket that joins the base. There are 4 nibs around the pivot pin.</td><td>47</td><td>697</td><td>High</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-47.htm#post1538191" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>Add the motor arm swing adjustment bolt (mine has the hole tapped, but no bolt). This just keeps the motor from swinging so far up, but since it's off to one side, it seems it would tend to apply some twist to the already loose motor pivot pin, some suggest to just use a bungee type cord.</td><td>41</td><td>615, 679</td><td>Low</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-41.htm#post876466" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>Tighten up the chain guide, file/smooth while it's apart</td><td>47</td><td>697</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-47.htm#post1538191" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>File down the rounded casting on the bottom side of the vise casting (more important if you use the 10 degree tilt)</td><td>47</td><td>697</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-47.htm#post1538191" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>Take out the play in the motor piviot pin/bushing/casting -- anyone done this?</td><td></td><td></td><td>Med</td><td><a href="" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>Mark custom/accurate angles with Sharpie</td><td>41</td><td>615</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-41.htm#post876466" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>Add flat washers underneath the cupped washer to improve the clamping force.</td><td>47</td><td>697</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-47.htm#post1538191" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>Use hot glue to fix the vise shims, adjustable chain rail spacers and a chain stop modification (that would be nice to have a pic of).</td><td>47</td><td>692</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-47.htm#post1486595" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>Another example of cleaning up the base, albeit on the Poulan version</td><td></td><td>728, 741</td><td>High</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-49.htm#post1956563" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>Use a magnet to catch grinding dust</td><td>53</td><td>790</td><td>Low</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-53.htm#post3569226" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>Swivel base and chain stop info</td><td></td><td></td><td>High</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/40844.htm#post541928" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>My experience firming up the chain stop</td><td></td><td>810</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-21.htm#post4242422" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
<tr><td>Guide rail mods</td><td></td><td>807</td><td>Med</td><td><a href="http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/39995-21.htm#post4241125" target="_blank">Link</a></td></tr>
</table>

 

[deezlfan]

Ideally, I would make a narrower chain stop so it did not have to be moved at all when changing sides.

What usually happens is that I think up a modification to make after I finish a batch of chains, then forget about it 'til I need the grinder again. By then I don't have time to mess with it......

 

[coloradotrout]

I swiped these photos from other posts to show what I did. The mods have not been done in these photos. This is the "before" picture.

1) I moved the chainstop assembly just a bit to the right so that the "small flipper" would ride on the shaft and not the threads. The thumbscrew can still adjust it side to side to that it backs up the tooth, but now the flipper stays on the solid shaft.
View attachment 287227

2) I filed down the bushing (not shown -- it's behind that bolt -- the "larger flipper" rides on it ) flush with the flipper, and then put on a larger washer to give more side support to the "large flipper". This is not a fix, but more of a hack work-around. If you file down the bushing too much, you may bind the flipper, so go easy. Mine is snug -- which is ok with me, as I would typically "sneak up" on the amount of grind I want on the tooth. So I'm using the take-off thumbscrew to push that stop closer to the tooth.
View attachment 287231

My apologies for my lousy mechanical terminology. How do I make these images larger?

 

[7oaks]

Now I've not only borrowed your pic, I have edited it!

Like this photo shows, my small "flipper" (that the tooth rests on) was pivoting half on the shaft (left side) and half on the threads (right side). I loosened the nut on the far left, moved the entire assembly a bit to the right, and now the flipped only pivots on the shaft. There is enough thumbscrew threads to move it in/out as needed, but still keep it off the threads.

View attachment 287227

Great use of photography to explain what is meant. Thanks.

 

[coloradotrout]

Great use of photography to explain what is meant. Thanks.

Thanks, but I did clip the photos from some other -- and mark them up. Too lazy to get my own camera.

 

[deezlfan]

It's all good. It's obvious where the photo is from and you used it to bring more to the thread. Not like you stole it for profit or tried to hide it's origin.

 

[mirekb]

Am I the only 1 who can't view the pictures in #187- what am I doing everything wrong?

 

[w8ye]

Yep the plastic bands are the key.




Mine also had a sticker that said "Re packaged" on it and everything was intact and in good order.





In regards to stihlatits concern about the differing tooth length Ive got a fix for that, but I had a big day today, Ill post it later on, its a fairly simple fix.



My local shops oregon has the same problem, but an operator that is skilled can lessen the effect.


Im not allways that skilled......

There are no pictures in post #185

 

[mirekb]

There are no pictures in post #185

You're right I meant post 187 or any post for what matters -I'm new here is there something that I have to turn on to see pictures ?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk - now Free

 

[w8ye]

Sometime since 2006, the picture database has been moved and the pointers in post 187 no longer point to the correct place.

 

[w8ye]

If you are truly interested changing your NT grinder, these descriptions can easily be found on your personal grinder.

As far as changing the direction (which I feel is unnecessary) there are several articles on reversing the Oregon grinder - the technique is the same

EXCEPT

The NT grinder only has three wires coming out of the motor. Two of the wires are fastened together inside the grinder motor housing. You have to find this junction and bring the two wires out separately. The two different windings can be determined with a ohm meter.

Unless you are a industrial motor electrician, this task is not for you.

Reversing these motors entails reversing the neutral and hot wires on the start circuit while keeping the run winding the same.

 

[w8ye]

On the Oregon motor, the green and black wires go to the run winding while the red and blue wires go to the start winding.

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/181620.htm

 

[mirekb]

If you are truly interested changing your NT grinder, these descriptions can easily be found on your personal grinder.

As far as changing the direction (which I feel is unnecessary) there are several articles on reversing the Oregon grinder - the technique is the same

where is the personal grinder? is it a separate thread or website - i googled "personal grinder" and no luck
please help with re-direction (if there is a different spot i should be looking at)
thanks in advance
as per changing a spin direction - that is an icing on the cake
i'm looking for some pictures and/or videos in addition to description of mods.