Back when I was even MORE of a newbie I took my saw ( Husky 450) to a mechanic friend to remove the clutch. It seems to me he suggested I should always remove the recoil starter to avoid damage to the starter mechanism? Did I understand that correctly, is that really a THING? Thanks for the education
general question re; clutch removal and installation
- Thread starter david newbie
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Your starter pawls would not be engaged when just breaking the clutch free so I would see no need to remove the starter recoil myself.
No problem when taking the clutch off, but some saws will engage the pawls when tightening it back on. If in doubt, pull the starter rope out a few inches and hold it while you rotate the clutch (not the drum) in both directions and see if it tries to pull the rope back in.
I tried your method on a husk for the 350 I had to remove the clutch on. You are correct. There was no problem when I took the clutch off, but I tried your trick, putting it back on and it was definitely engaging the dogs and pulling on the rope so I remove the recoil, thank you I would hate to break that mechanism
I normally pull the rope out a few inches and use it to hold the crankshaft while I give the clutch a quick rat-a-tat. I have not had any problems with that technique so far...
Mark
Mark
Avoid the whole issue and put some rope in the cylinder through the sparkplug hole.
Put rope in the cylinder, pull till it's tight then pop it off. Works for me.
This
I always do that with putting on a clutch, however, I still can tell that it's putting a fair bit of tension on the dogs. During clutch installation
oldguy
ArboristSite Lurker
I never tighten a clutch beyond hand tight, let the chain take care of that.
I have learned not to start the saw with the clutch only hand tight, (without the chain on) clutch parts roll a long way!
I have learned not to start the saw with the clutch only hand tight, (without the chain on) clutch parts roll a long way!
The chain brake will set the clutch for the outboard clutches. No need to take the recoil stuff off. I suppose pulling out on the rope and tightening it some is good but once you hit the chain brake at speed that is the sort of torque wrench.
Is that also true for the inboard clutch?
I don't think I ever took the clutch off any of my inboard clutch saws. It is just a clip to take the drum off. Probably would work check the manual. For the pole saw and string trimmer type clutches there is no chain brake.
Works great as long as the saw has a chain brake. Probably most of us belong to the "spun the clutch off the saw club" and will NEVER make that mistake again. Only thing you can do that has greater disaster potential, is to rev a saw up with the clutch on but no clutch drum on the clutch.
Installation I just hand tighten it. I've not noticed any tension.
Been there, done that
I hate to admit being a member of that club. Had a clutch incl. drum going ballistic after testing the saw without clutch cover. Missed my head by a few inches and knocked a light out on the ceiling. Very lucky to not getting seriously hurt. Was a real wake-up call I'll never forget.
Mine hit the floor doing about 10,000rpm, shot out the lane and disappeared into the weeds across the road
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