getting some revs out of the 041

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Intake, with pics

Took some pics of a mocked-up cylinder with the "regular" and "backward" intake.

Here is what it "should" look like.

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It's crude, but this is sort of what the fresh charge is doing.

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This is how the saw was assembled when I got it. The air filter cover was notched at the back, as well as the dust shield has to be cut that sits under the carb to fit against the handle housing. Not to mention that the heat shield really isn't doing too much because it's in contact with both the muffler and the spacer.

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Again, a representation of what the charge is doing.

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Would this increase the flow characteristics so that performance would actually increase? It SEEMS like a "good" idea, or is it just me?
 
You can get a rim drive clutch drum from Bailey's to fit this saw, then you can run whatever sprocket you like. It's the same as the 031 drum, found here:

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=ORF+18200X&catID=

I can't imagine a 61cc 041 being able to pull a 9-pin 3/8" rim in more than maybe 8" wood. A ported Super could perhaps make it work, but even then I don't know. The geardrive I just got though, :chainsaw:

I ordered the same one for my 041av, it does come with the "pin-washer" to drive the oil-pump. I have an 8-pin on dad's with only a 16" bar, it puts a grin on his face when he uses it.
 
is your fathers saw stock?

do you think it'd pull a 20 with the 8 tooth?

It's "stock", cylinder has base gasket, fresh hone and new rings (about 1-1/2 years ago), and a slight muffler mod. With the 16" it's alot of fun, but you need a lighter touch on the oak when the tip is in the wood. I don't think it would pull the 8 with a 20" b/c in oak but maybe in some green softwood it would.
I've found with the lower rpms "in the cut" with this saw compared to say my 361 it's really sensitive to raker depth.
 
thanks for the info jeff. i just ordered a 20" bar and chain, will see how it goes square filed on the 8 tooth, if poorly ill try the 7 and if that dont cut it ill make a loop of skip chain and see if chip clearing helps. whatever ends up fastest is what ill use but im definitely giving it to him with a 16 and a 20.
 
well.. it looks pretty clear that the intake manifold would be getting heated more when moved closer to the heatshield, and i could argue that aspect as good or bad. bad because it theoretically reduces charge density, good because it theoretically increases vaporization of the fuel which increases flame rate.

i think for the best answer, you'll have to do some timed cuts in each configuration and go with whatever works best for you.

btw guys, my name is mike :cheers:
 
so i got busy the last few years with a wife n kid n all that happy stuff. i cleared the bench and dug out the old box of dusty 041 parts. cant find the pics i took of the teardown and have no idea how to put this pig back together. anyone wanna shoot me a manual so i can get back to it? pretty please? :heart:
 
thanks to Mike Baudoux for generously sending me all the manual stuff.

i split the cases and definitely should do crank bearings while im in here. got all the part numbers. who do you guys recommend sourcing them from? i prefer sending my money to american owned small business when possible. any leads?
 
bump. anyone know a vendor thatll sell me 2 new crank bearings and 2 new cranks seals? i dont wanna have to piecemeal this all together and pay shipping 4 times. not much luck so far.
 
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only took 3 years!
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she runs as of 10 minutes ago. ill post up all the juicy degree wheel details when i get it dialed and tested out.
 

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