Good Old fashon Wire core climbing rope .

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No , How ...This I gotta hear !!!!

The trick is to work some of the core out of the rope. Pull a bit of the core out and put it in a vice. Then with the end of the rope, taped of course, work the rope down the core untill you have at least a foot of core sticking out of the end. Work that slack down the rope equaly along it's length. I like to really tight wrap some more tape on it then but you don't have to. It really makes it limber.
Now don't go cutting that core off though. Get your torch out and melt the end of the core so it won't unravel but you need that core. The trouble with climbing rope is when it gets wet the hemp will shrink and the core won't. I've seen where guys didn't do anything to it and the core would pooch right out the side of the rope. If it gets wet it will start to get stiff. You pull some more core out and it will limber up although never as good as dry. You need that extra core for something to get hold of if you want to work some down.
When it drys out work it the other way.

Sounds like a lot of work the way I put it down but just takes a minute to work it which ever way it needs to go.
 
The trick is to work some of the core out of the rope. Pull a bit of the core out and put it in a vice. Then with the end of the rope, taped of course, work the rope down the core untill you have at least a foot of core sticking out of the end. Work that slack down the rope equaly along it's length. I like to really tight wrap some more tape on it then but you don't have to. It really makes it limber.
Now don't go cutting that core off though. Get your torch out and melt the end of the core so it won't unravel but you need that core. The trouble with climbing rope is when it gets wet the hemp will shrink and the core won't. I've seen where guys didn't do anything to it and the core would pooch right out the side of the rope. If it gets wet it will start to get stiff. You pull some more core out and it will limber up although never as good as dry. You need that extra core for something to get hold of if you want to work some down.
When it drys out work it the other way.

Sounds like a lot of work the way I put it down but just takes a minute to work it which ever way it needs to go.

It's kinda like milking the bull rope. You just have to do it now and then to relive tension.
 
The past few years I have been using chain as my climbing rope which is real hard on the fingers when you spur out with lineman gaffs in climbing around burls and knots ... good old manilla climbing rope was way more comfortable .. I put Harbor Saws # in my phone and will give them a call in a month or so ... . I will prolly also get a 8' modern flip line , wire core obcourse ........ I don,t climb close enough to power lines to get zapped ..........Come summer time I hope the tree service picks up here ..
 
The past few years I have been using chain as my climbing rope which is real hard on the fingers when you spur out with lineman gaffs in climbing around burls and knots ... good old manilla climbing rope was way more comfortable .. I put Harbor Saws # in my phone and will give them a call in a month or so ... . I will prolly also get a 8' modern flip line , wire core obcourse ........ I don,t climb close enough to power lines to get zapped ..........Come summer time I hope the tree service picks up here ..

I remember reading an article in one of the tree service magazines about a guy who used 1/4" alloy chain as his flip line. That was probably 15 years ago and I don't remember how he adjusted it. It seems like a good idea but only for an independent owner. Since OSHA sets the rules only commercially available gear can be issued to an employee.
 
I just use regular light aluminum caribiners .. The kind you clip your keys or a water bottle to a belt loop with . I go around the tree in thru the dee ring then clipit back into itself .. That way I only have half load on the biner .. Sometimes I use the steel ones you can buy in a hardware store ...... I use a good old fashion shackle to secure the chain to my left side dee ring .. My climbing belt is the same one I bought in 1983 . Just a Klein safety belt that I have done 3/4ths of all my climbing with .. When I first got it it wound be buckled in the last holes and there wounld still be room for it to ride up .. It got so I had to really suck up to get even the first 2 holes for a while ... I,m on my way toward a sensible middle now ....
 
I just use regular light aluminum caribiners .. The kind you clip your keys or a water bottle to a belt loop with . I go around the tree in thru the dee ring then clipit back into itself .. That way I only have half load on the biner .. Sometimes I use the steel ones you can buy in a hardware store ...... I use a good old fashion shackle to secure the chain to my left side dee ring .. My climbing belt is the same one I bought in 1983 . Just a Klein safety belt that I have done 3/4ths of all my climbing with .. When I first got it it wound be buckled in the last holes and there wounld still be room for it to ride up .. It got so I had to really suck up to get even the first 2 holes for a while ... I,m on my way toward a sensible middle now ....

Yeah, my saddle shrunk too. I would not use those fake carabiners. They are not made to any specifications. Some dude in Red China bangs them out for a 1/4 cent apiece and ships them over here. And you realy need a locking carabiner. Your posts are entertaining and informative. It's hard to type with a limb sticking out of your chest.
 
Yeah, my saddle shrunk too. I would not use those fake carabiners. They are not made to any specifications. Some dude in Red China bangs them out for a 1/4 cent apiece and ships them over here. And you realy need a locking carabiner. Your posts are entertaining and informative. It's hard to type with a limb sticking out of your chest.



+1 On the caribeaners. That is no place to skimp. Those hardware store ones are a death trap waiting for a place to happen.
 
Wish I was good at putting up pictures.
They are a chain link that opens up on one side with a threaded kind of like a nut. Not a very good explanation.
Any place that handles RV supplies or trailers will have them not to mention a hardware store.
 
Wish I was good at putting up pictures.
They are a chain link that opens up on one side with a threaded kind of like a nut. Not a very good explanation.
Any place that handles RV supplies or trailers will have them not to mention a hardware store.
.

. OK , Ya , I know what you mean ... I guess that would work .....I,ll put a bunch of them on there ..
 
Wish I was good at putting up pictures.
They are a chain link that opens up on one side with a threaded kind of like a nut. Not a very good explanation.
Any place that handles RV supplies or trailers will have them not to mention a hardware store.

You should use a load rated link. Most arborist suppliers have them.
They look like this;http://wesspur.com/carabiners/clips-links.html
 
Ya , that 5/16 th pear link would prolly work well ... I know I need to get a saddle and a bunch of the right stuff . But it has to pay for itself also ........ At least I,m not useing a regular rope ....WWAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHH splat . pretty hard to saw thru a steel chain ...... I,ve sent my climbing rope up to my partner who was 110ft up a hemlock because he got all but 2 strands and half the wire core of his rope ...He never even had to come down ... till he got it all topped and down ........
 
I used to use an old linemans belt. Now I use a newer linemans belt. Pads the back better and seems to ride good for what I do in a tree, either rigging or cutting. I never could get used to a saddle and all the rope every place I needed/wanted to work with the saw.

On my left D I quick link the chain on and then on the right I have a chain slide then when adjusted I have a double clip to hold the extra slack chain to the tension side. Real fast to pull in or let out the slack as you go. pull yourself in with your right hand and run the chain through with your left. The slide is a chunk of 1/4" plate with a hole in it that the chain will slide through easily, then a slot the chain slides into and holds it about twice as long as the link so it doesn't slip or pop out. The chain isn't going anyplace but that clip gives me a warm and fuzzy feeling I guess. I know it can't pop out when the slack is clipped back. The plate has a hole in it that I use a quick link to hold that on my right D.

I can a does get a bit tough on the hands though. Chain also gives me a warm and fuzzy feeling knowing that the saw isn't going through all the way. Rope sure is lighter too.

I should know by now how to do the photo thing but I haven't taken the time to learn it yet. When I do get my butt glued to a chair long enough to learn I have piles of photos to put up. This chain slide is one I have been asked about quite a bit it seems.



Owl
 
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