Great deal on a Craftsman Riding Mower

[user 122190]

Push rods bent because the head was overheated and the valve guide worked its way out. 90% of the time from mice nest blocking off the air cooling fins , or a bunch of grass plugging them up.
You can try to tap it back in but unless I know the person, I wont do it because it may last years or an hour before it comes out again. The warranty on driving them back in ends when the machine goes past the door of my shop. Its best to just replace the cylinder head and be done with it, while you have the tin covers off clean it out as best you can to eliminate it from happening all over again.

The amount of baked on crude was alarming. Soaking it in a solvent did nothing. I finally had to put a brush on my dremel to remove it after I had scraped and scraped it with a metal file. I'm going to clean up the cylinder today and reassemble the head, then I will take a closer look at the right cylinder and see if I have to do some aggressive cleaning on it also.

 

[wrenchit]

The amount of baked on crude was alarming. Soaking it in a solvent did nothing. I finally had to put a brush on my dremel to remove it after I had scraped and scraped it with a metal file. I'm going to clean up the cylinder today and reassemble the head, then I will take a closer look at the right cylinder and see if I have to do some aggressive cleaning on it also.

That's great! Usually only one cylinder spits valve guides because it runs the hottest and obstructions cause the damage. I my self pull the tin and clean the fins on every mower I work on. Also, When you set the valve clearance make sure you know how to do it correctly. Simple way is a wooden chop stick. Drop it in the spark plug hole and at Top dead center, MARK IT. rotate the flywheel 1/4 inch and MARK the chopstick again. THIS second mark is what to use to set the valve clearance. What you are doing this for, is allowing for the compression release on the cam. An engine that is set properly, should start on one revaluation and be running. if you have top keep turning it over and over before it starts, the valves are loose. I write the date on the valve cover and every two years I re-adjust the valves. Hope this helps.

 

[user 122190]

That's great! Usually only one cylinder spits valve guides because it runs the hottest and obstructions cause the damage. I my self pull the tin and clean the fins on every mower I work on. Also, When you set the valve clearance make sure you know how to do it correctly. Simple way is a wooden chop stick. Drop it in the spark plug hole and at Top dead center, MARK IT. rotate the flywheel 1/4 inch and MARK the chopstick again. THIS second mark is what to use to set the valve clearance. What you are doing this for, is allowing for the compression release on the cam. An engine that is set properly, should start on one revaluation and be running. if you have top keep turning it over and over before it starts, the valves are loose. I write the date on the valve cover and every two years I re-adjust the valves. Hope this helps.

Thanks for the tip. On motorcycles there use to be a mark for where to do the rocker adjustment. Times before this on mowers I was using TDC. 1/4 inch mark makes sense.

 

[wrenchit]

Thanks for the tip. On motorcycles there use to be a mark for where to do the rocker adjustment. Times before this on mowers I was using TDC. 1/4 inch mark makes sense.

Glad I could help. Another thing that I use all the time now is nothing but Kohler or Kawasaki engine oil. It has Zink in it and is more durable on high heat air cooled engines. Both are made by the same manufacturer. You can find Kohler at tractor supply, or at any dealer. Wont find it at auto parts stores because if some nitwit puts it in their car, it will poison the catalytic converter. Also flat or "L" head engines all take straight 30 oil, and all overhead valves take 10W30. Most Koehler's use hydraulic lifters. For some strange reason, using Kawasaki or Kohler oil, removes the lifter/tappet clicking on the Briggs engines , so it must be better. I actually found this out by mistake. I am a Master Certified Technician for Briggs and Stratton and get retested on all this stuff every 4 years. It gets old, trust me.

 

[user 122190]

The John Deere started right up. I'll ride it around for a few days, and make sure the fix is solid. If so, then I'll drop the cutting deck and sharpen the blades and get this one on Craigslist. On CL I see similar JDs selling for $1200, and this one of mine comes with a nice grass bagger. $1200 should be easy for this repaired mower.

 

[JRM]

We just got the older Craftsman up and running that we bought for $150. The deck would not disengage. Needed new springs and brake arms (not an electric pto model). I didn't know it at the time but it's a 1998 model. You wouldn't know by looking at it.
I need to look around and see what these things are going for around here.

 

[Sportfury70]

Good to hear! Another one or two of these under your belt and you can shift up to garden tractors like my 14d, g series kubotas, heavy duty bolens units, etc.

The buy in is a bit more, but they sell for a LOT more too.

 

[user 122190]

We just got the older Craftsman up and running that we bought for $150. The deck would not disengage. Needed new springs and brake arms (not an electric pto model). I didn't know it at the time but it's a 1998 model. You wouldn't know by looking at it.
I need to look around and see what these things are going for around here.

Very nice. A bit old, but looks like an easy $600 or more. I sold three Craftsmans this past year, but they were all less then 5 years old, and they go for a grand easy. Personally I like the older units. Less safety crap on them. Backing up happens a lot in my yard, and not having to remember to push some silly button is nice.

 

[user 122190]

Good to hear! Another one or two of these under your belt and you can shift up to garden tractors like my 14d, g series kubotas, heavy duty bolens units, etc.

The buy in is a bit more, but they sell for a LOT more too.

I had a line on a Cub Cadet, in perfect exterior condition, but it don’t run. Ad says it popped, and smoked, and now won’t start. Says it might need a new engine, but the seller doesn’t know. Yeah, right. Wanted $500, a little crazy I thought. I’ve offered $200, and we went back and forth a bit. I’m solid at $250, and he’s solid at $300. If it wouldn’t cost me 60 to 70 in gas to go get it, I might do the 300, but with the risk, it doesn’t look like it is going to happen. I might be done, buying, fixing and flipping mowers til the fall. Been fun...

 

[user 122190]

Wow! Just got notice. It's mine for $250.

 

[Sportfury70]

Nice how stuff works out sometimes, huh?!

Finding a replacement engine shouldn’t be difficult, and selling will be a breeze too as ppl like those cubs a lot.

You gonna take it down and see if maybe you can fix it first?

 

[user 122190]

Nice how stuff works out sometimes, huh?!

Finding a replacement engine shouldn’t be difficult, and selling will be a breeze too as ppl like those cubs a lot.

You gonna take it down and see if maybe you can fix it first?

I do doubt it needs a new engine. I figure low mileage, gots to be something not all that difficult to fix. I don't relish pulling an engine and slipping in a new piston or getting into the crank case, but I will before purchasing a new engine.

The fact that this is so clean, it will get top dollar after getting after and fixing the problem. I just googled their address, and it is an estate. Gated private lot, with key code -- I'm growing convinced it is going to be something simple. I hope!

 

[Okie]

JRM wrote:
We just got the older Craftsman up and running that we bought for $150. The deck would not disengage. Needed new springs and brake arms (not an electric pto model). I didn't know it at the time but it's a 1998 model. You wouldn't know by looking at it.

That blade brake design is a common problem with that type mower. the brake pads are wimpy and and spring load into the edge of the deck pulleys and the pulley cut grooves into the pad.

Some of those were a 6 speed heavy duty gear box. Yours has been taken care of and stored inside.

 

[user 122190]

I pulled out of the deal. I did my research night before, and I got a bad bad feeling. It looks like the Kohler Courage engine is prone for a particular failure. Usually I caulk such things to bad luck, but this problem is/was common, such that Kohler once issued a recall. It might really need an engine, like the owner suggests.

Then last night, the seller told me I should have bought it, as it started right up for him, and it was the transmission belt. What? It went from pop, to smoke, to wont start and then something magical happened and it was just a bad transmission belt and now it runs perfectly.

Something is off. I'm glad not to have gotten involved.

 

[Okie]

Montana resident was typing his previous post at the same time I was typing this:
I''m doing final work on a Cub Cadet, model LTX1046 on the hood that was given to me with the motor and deck off. (two bad decks) I wished it were the Kohler engine but it was the Briggs TWIN Intek type. Kohler is usually a better engine but more expensive to repair.
Briggs TWIN INTEK engine dual throat Nikki Carb was bad and a challenge to repair, valve lash out of adjustment and
All the drive belt idlers were bad, the steering pinion jumping gears (due to wrong parts being installed) deck spindle bearings bad, wrong deck idler pulley and tension spring. right front tire leaking air.
I'll have about $100 in parts when done. Was lucky that most all of the parts were still around in buckets. Harder to re-store them when several parts/pieces missing.

 

[djg james]

JRM wrote:
We just got the older Craftsman up and running that we bought for $150.....
Some of those were a 6 speed heavy duty gear box. Yours has been taken care of and stored inside.

I've held onto two older gray Craftsman because of just that fact. The gearbox. It could pull a half load of a 5x8 trailer of firewood up a hill. My original one had steering problems. The gear would slip out of the sector gear. And I only had a few gears. Bought a year earlier model that had a beefy steering but the deck pulley was horizontal and the belt kept slipping off. I plan on cobbling the two into one, some day.

 

[user 122190]

I''m doing final work on a Cub Cadet, model LTX1046 on the hood that was given to me with the motor and deck off. (two bad decks) I wished it were the Kohler engine but it was the Briggs Intek type.
Carb was bad, valve lash out of adjustment and
All the drive belt idlers were bad, the steering pinion jumping gears (due to wrong parts being installed) deck spindle bearings bad, wrong deck idler pulley and tension spring. right front tire leaking air.
I'll have about $100 in parts when done. Was lucky that most all of the parts were still around in buckets. Harder to re-store them when several parts/pieces missing.

I had a bad taste in my mouth with the B&S Intek on the John Deere. The guy that did the valve guide repair said that in press fitting the guide back in it was a hell of a lot more force going in then it was in removing it. I fully trust that the fix is going to hold. Now that the engine is running again, it is a nice and smooth sounding engine. I've half a mind to sell the $100 Craftsman and keep this John Deere.

 

[djg james]

I pulled out of the deal. I did my research night before, and I got a bad bad feeling. It looks like the Kohler Courage engine is prone for a particular failure....

I've got the same engine on another mower and it knocks badly and leaks oil out the exhaust.

 

[Okie]

djg james wrote:
I've held onto two older gray Craftsman because of just that fact. The gearbox. It could pull a half load of a 5x8 trailer of firewood up a hill. My original one had steering problems. The gear would slip out of the sector gear.

Some of them 6 speed manual models also had a really good stout clutch drive belt design. The clutch was spring loaded really stout would really hold good without slipping any at all even with a old drive belt.

Also some of them sectors on some are not user friendly to replace/remove.
I've seen several lawn tractors that the steering gear and the sector gear would slip and new bushing and steering gear would only temporarily fix but their main issue was up/down slack in the steering shaft which allowed the steering pinion gear to drop down just enough that it would not en-gauge the sector gear fully due to shims being worn and just wear. (this is the type where the steering pinion gear mates with the sector gear at an angle from under the sector gear) Several times I could install shims to shim the steering gear up into the sector fully and get a permanent fix, if all else was ok.

 

[djg james]

djg james wrote:
I've held onto two older gray Craftsman because of just that fact. The gearbox. It could pull a half load of a 5x8 trailer of firewood up a hill. My original one had steering problems. The gear would slip out of the sector gear.

Some of them 6 speed manual models also had a really good stout clutch drive belt design. The clutch was spring loaded really stout would really hold good without slipping any at all even with a old drive belt.

Also some of them sectors on some are not user friendly to replace/remove.
I've seen several lawn tractors that the steering gear and the sector gear would slip and new bushing and steering gear would only temporarily fix but their main issue was up/down slack in the steering shaft which allowed the steering pinion gear to drop down just enough that it would not en-gauge the sector gear fully due to shims being worn and just wear. (this is the type where the steering pinion gear mates with the sector gear at an angle from under the sector gear) Several times I could install shims to shim the steering gear up into the sector fully and get a permanent fix, if all else was ok.

Perfect description of my problem. Only the bushing for the pinion gear is mounted a hair too far away from the sector gear. I've change the sector gear three times and it's a PITA. I thought I would elongate the bushings mounting holes, draw it tight and then bolt, washer, nut them tight into place. Up and down hasn't been the problem, I don't think.