Great deal on a Craftsman Riding Mower

[JRM]

That blade brake design is a common problem with that type mower. the brake pads are wimpy and and spring load into the edge of the deck pulleys and the pulley cut grooves into the pad.

Some of those were a 6 speed heavy duty gear box. Yours has been taken care of and stored inside.

Even with a new cable/spring assembly to engage the blades and a new spring (mounted on the deck, attached to idler pulley) to disengage the blades it is still slow to disengage. This with new brake arms and bushings. I'm thinking about adding a second spring.

I also find the decals on this thing odd. They say 17.5hp but the engine is 14.5. I asked the (original) owner if the engine had been replaced, he said no.

 

[user 122190]

And the Saga continues. Jeez Louise!!!

Started right up again, and sounded fine. Very good in-fact. But I wouldn't assume anything and got out the IR Temp Tester, and the Left Cylinder exhaust pipe shot up in temp to over 500 degree, while the Right Cylinder hadn't yet gotten to 100. So back to the drawing board.

I removed the valve cover and that looks okay. No damage done in running the engine for a couple of minutes. On to the compression tests. The left cylinder (the one that was bending the rod) has a compression of 75psi, while the right has 110. Okay not ideal, but shouldn't cause any major issues, right. However, I did notice the Right spark plug wasn't showing much coloration. SO I took the carburetor completely apart. There I saw some rust accumulation in the float bowl, so Aha. I cleaned that up, and it is now shiny clean. I have a nice set of brushes and pokers, (that are specifically for working on small carburetors) that I rimed out all the orifices, and nothing really was bad or even suspiciously bad was learned. I then got out the can of Quick start and started to blast away into all the same orifices, and slowly one started to spray better and better with more and more squirts from the aerosol quick start spray. I'm now thinking I GOT IT. The right cylinder was not getting sufficient gas and the left cylinder was over compensating. Or that is the theory so far. It is all apart, and will remain so for a day, or at least til I feel like working on it more.

I also removed both exhaust pipes looking for any obstructions and that looks good, and they do share the same muffler, so that possibility has been removed. And I checked spark again, a sanity test, and both have strong spark.

Yeesh....

If this wasn't a problem with gas, due to a dirty carb, then I'm going to really be puzzled. @Okie, your thoughts on this would be appreciated.

Before I put it all together again, I'll run the Craftsman and see how its solo exhaust pipe heats up. 100 degrees seems low for a couple of minutes of run time, while 500 seems high. The Craftsman should tell that tale.

 

[user 122190]

Even with a new cable/spring assembly to engage the blades and a new spring (mounted on the deck, attached to idler pulley) to disengage the blades it is still slow to disengage. This with new brake arms and bushings. I'm thinking about adding a second spring.

I also find the decals on this thing odd. They say 17.5hp but the engine is 14.5. I asked the (original) owner if the engine had been replaced, he said no.

Frustrating isn't it. These mowers are cheap, cheaply built. They have a hard life, but seem to run into problems very quickly. This is why I'm buying these so inexpensively. They are just so prone to early failure, and hiring a shop is crazy expensive to have them try and fix the problem(s).

 

[JRM]

I can't say I've had any frustration to this point but yes they are built very cheap. Not the quality I'm used to wrenching on having had the pleasure of riding around on this beauty the last decade or so.....



At 2k hrs the only failure I've had was the gear box that drives the deck. A rebuild kit with OE bearings and seals cost roughly $75. And one idler which I drilled the rivets out and replaced the bearing so even now it is "serviceable". Everything is greasable, down to the deck pivot bushings.

 

[JRM]

Also, RE compression testing on these engines. It is hard to get an accurate reading, the cam grind is such that the intake valve is held open a little more than usual at low rpm (cranking speeds) during the compression stroke. That acts as a compression release at low speeds for easier cranking. I'm not sure if Briggs Even publishes minimum #'s for this reason. I do know that if your valves are way out of spec it will cause either low or excessive compression when starting.

 

[Smitty Smithsonite]

I've got one in here right now that I just finished Friday with the walking valve guide! I had to yank the engine to retrieve a pushrod that departed for the crankcase. 2nd time on the same machine, so I yanked the head and installed a used one. Fixed the oil leaks that caused the original problem - the breather pukes oil all down the front of the engine, and it cokes up to molasses and attracts dirt to the lower part of the head at the exhaust, the hottest part, naturally. Even had brown tinting around the exhaust valve spring - that's how hot this thing got!

I may modify the bad head with a set screw to hold the guide in place, then throw it up for sale. We'll see if I have time.

 

[JRM]

Hey Smitty, what is the red cage in the 1st pic, to the left?

 

[user 122190]

I've got one in here right now that I just finished Friday with the walking valve guide! I had to yank the engine to retrieve a pushrod that departed for the crankcase. 2nd time on the same machine, so I yanked the head and installed a used one. Fixed the oil leaks that caused the original problem - the breather pukes oil all down the front of the engine, and it cokes up to molasses and attracts dirt to the lower part of the head at the exhaust, the hottest part, naturally. Even had brown tinting around the exhaust valve spring - that's how hot this thing got!

I may modify the bad head with a set screw to hold the guide in place, then throw it up for sale. We'll see if I have time.

I'm going to take a good look at the breather. Way back when, street motorcycles use to run a fuel hose from the crankcase to the underside of the bike. Just vent it into the atmosphere, and bypass the carb and combustion chambers.

 

[user 122190]

This makes me feel a little better. I'm growing more confident that the right cylinder is not running. Carb is cleaned, there is no obstructions, spark is good, etc. AND if my carb cleaning fails to fix the problem, there is on Amazon replacement carbs for $30 to $50.



That sounded really hot to me, but I guess it is normal. What is NOT normal was the right side staying cool and under 100 degrees.

 

[Smitty Smithsonite]

Hey Smitty, what is the red cage in the 1st pic, to the left?

That's a powered parachute I'm doing an engine swap on. Powered by a dual ignition Rotax 582. Original has a cracked case, so the owner found a newer engine and decided he wanted to run that. Can't wait to finish that job - that thing is taking up all my shop space!

Here's a pic of my ultralight paramotor (Black cage) next to the powered parachute. The powered parachute is capable of carrying a passenger, and is much, much heavier than the paramotor, which disqualifies it (Along with the passenger seat & 15 gallon fuel capacity) from FAR Part 103 (Ultralight regulations).

 

[Smitty Smithsonite]

This makes me feel a little better. I'm growing more confident that the right cylinder is not running. Carb is cleaned, there is no obstructions, spark is good, etc. AND if my carb cleaning fails to fix the problem, there is on Amazon replacement carbs for $30 to $50.

View attachment 996965

That sounded really hot to me, but I guess it is normal. What is NOT normal was the right side staying cool and under 100 degrees.

Yeah, at 100°, that's just either occasionally firing once in a blue moon, or is just residual heat from the other cylinder being transferred through the block.

The cylinder head temperature on my 2-stroke 190cc paramotor pictured above on a 90° summer day after a long climbout will nudge 400°F. Thing is cookin'! I back off much over 400° and make a slower climb. They say the engine is good for about 460°, but that's pushing it IMO.

 

[user 122190]

We just got the older Craftsman up and running that we bought for $150. The deck would not disengage. Needed new springs and brake arms (not an electric pto model). I didn't know it at the time but it's a 1998 model. You wouldn't know by looking at it.
I need to look around and see what these things are going for around here.

The Craftsman is gone. $900 was the final selling price. Guy bought it for his dad who has polio. The father had the exact same machine for more then 20 years, and it seized up on him 4 days ago. This will be a nice replacement for him, as he uses it to get around, as walking is difficult for the guy. I'm happy it is going to someone that really needs it.

Now the John Deere has to get fixed so I can keep the weeds under control, while I find a wreak to purchase and replace this Craftsman. The John Deere has to be sold. It will be worth more then I need for my yard maintenance.

 

[user 122190]

The carburetor is back together. I found a couple things and now the right cylinder runs fine. The entire machine runs fine. But the left cylinder is still running hot. 500 degrees, while the right side is a nice 250 degrees. I spayed the intake manifold, and ran the propane bottle around all possible leak areas -- nothing. Only one thing left is the jets. There are two or them and they are suppose to be of different sizes, but they looked the same to me, so I just popped them in. I'm now grasping at anything that I might be able to do different. So I'll reverse the jets tomorrow, thinking they were wrong and I reinstalled them wrong again.

I'm desperate. I've no F'ing idea what is going on.

I only bought the thing for $300, and I've spent another $20, so no giant lose if I have to eat it. I figure it is still worth $300, but to someone with more mechanical skill then I. Fudge! Double FUDGE!!! I haven't completely given up, but this escapes me. No way I'm replacing the engine, and rebuilding it seems like throwing more money after a loser investment. Triple FUDGE!!!

 

[user 122190]

I've made over 2K this past year in buying, fixing and reselling these mowers, that I am now free and clear to buy a brand new mower. I'm thinking of a Cub Cadet XT1 LT46. F'These mowers. I had my fun, bank my profits, and onto something else, something new.

 

[Smitty Smithsonite]

I checked the head on my beater, single cylinder Murray today after mowing the hill (Plus rocks and stumps) out back. Was pretty close to 400° after shutting the fuel off, letting it run out of fuel completely (Feeding it choke to get every drop out), stall, then the time it took to grab my infrared thermometer. I'd bet it was 400° or better at full bore with the deck spinning. 500° could just be a matter of lean jetting. I'd bet the 250° is still a misfire of some sort happening on that side. The hot side is running as it should, albeit lean.

If it were me, I'd be comparing compression and leakdown readings from both cylinders, then I'd be checking valve clearance on that cool cylinder. It's either lean jetting on the one hot cylinder, and leaking valves, tight valves, low compression due to worn rings, or and ignition problem on the cool cylinder (If you're certain fueling is right).

 

[user 122190]

I checked the head on my beater, single cylinder Murray today after mowing the hill (Plus rocks and stumps) out back. Was pretty close to 400° after shutting the fuel off, letting it run out of fuel completely (Feeding it choke to get every drop out), stall, then the time it took to grab my infrared thermometer. I'd bet it was 400° or better at full bore with the deck spinning. 500° could just be a matter of lean jetting. I'd bet the 250° is still a misfire of some sort happening on that side. The hot side is running as it should, albeit lean.

If it were me, I'd be comparing compression and leakdown readings from both cylinders, then I'd be checking valve clearance on that cool cylinder. It's either lean jetting on the one hot cylinder, and leaking valves, tight valves, low compression due to worn rings, or and ignition problem on the cool cylinder (If you're certain fueling is right).

I appreciate the comments. I'm now thinking of a new engine. $900 and this would be a keeper. Just not sure of a fit if it wasn't a direct replacement. Seems like Briggs would conform to a set mounting pattern, but I don't know. Putting in a 724cc engine would be very nice and justify the cost....

 

[Smitty Smithsonite]

I wouldn't give up yet. Usually these kinds of problems are extremely simple to resolve. The hard part is figuring out WHICH problem you're dealing with.

 

[user 122190]

Looks like swapping in a new B&S engine is a simple thing to do.

I called Tractor Supply last night, and they have no Cub Cadets, they cannot be ordered or back ordered. No estimated time til they can get them. Not this summer, not this year, or maybe never. I said, "But, this is America, the United States of America. Are you telling me I cannot buy one tomorrow, and have it delivered free of charge the same day?". "Yup, that's what I'm tell you", she said. LOL!

I'm cutting firewood this morning, then I will start in on the carburetor one more time. Then it will be time to pull then engine in order to buy the correct replacement engine. 22 or 24Hp, 724cc brand new, will be nice.

 

[JRM]

The way things are going in the world we may all learn the hard way why the Greatest Generation were such hoarders.

 

[user 122190]

The way things are going in the world we may all learn the hard way why the Greatest Generation were such hoarders.

People are going to have to learn how to fix things. Tossing 1 or 2 year old stuff and buying new isn't going to fly anymore. Chainsaw users also. Not to long ago, one of my posts/threads was attacked for ways to keep a saw clean. Use it, abuse it, refuse to even clean it, and it is going to be landfill material before you know it.

I'm doing stuff on this John Deere, I've done many many times before, but that was years and years ago. My tools are better and I have time, so it is a bit of fun chasing down these problems and getting them fixed. I just wish I had more space.