Jason Pitcher
Born to tinker, forced to work.
So which is better? I watched a YouTube video that stated grind is better than a hand file.
Hand file vs grinding
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Hand file , the grinder takes away too much material and can damage the hardened edge of the cutter. A hand filed chain will hold it's cutting edge much longer. YMMV
I've never used or needed a grinder. Can freehand file in the woods if needed.
Take a big round, set on edge, and cut a grove on the top for a bar holder. Use another round for a seat.
Bo-obtube is way over rated and rife with fools.
Take a big round, set on edge, and cut a grove on the top for a bar holder. Use another round for a seat.
Bo-obtube is way over rated and rife with fools.
oldguy
ArboristSite Lurker
Bullshot, bullshot, bullshot, the grinder can take off .001 or .030, it's the Indian not the arrow.
To each their own. That's why the YMMV. The grinder is for those that never learned to hand file.
With a file you can clean a cutter up until it's just sharp.
Try it by marking the filed area with a sharpie and observe as the blackened area is removed, and the corner gets proper.
With experience, you can tell by the feel of the file stroke when the cutter is cleaned up. A grinder won't do that.
oldguy
ArboristSite Lurker
I filed for 60 years, I can see and feel a sharp edge, when I see the first shine on the cutting edge that chain is dull and I grab another saw.
Some of you do not know how to run a grinder.
The machine will do everything the same way every time, my hands will not.
I have a Tecomec grinder and can operate it properly.
You might have 10 years more experience filing, but with my 50 years I still prefer to file.
I both hand file and machine grind.
The reason I like to hand file is because I like to 'tickle' a chain on the saw every tank or two.
Back when I was running a true care crew of five I would machine grind and have a dozen or so sharp chains on site ready to go.
The reason being is payroll is a killer cost and it's not a time to be waiting on someone to hand file a chain when labor cost are ticking away at well over $100. per hour.
Now that I'm retired it is much more relaxing, I enjoy the break. Plus I like to 'tune' a chain to the powerhead and bar that it is on. The instant feedback from sharpening by hand in the field is awesome.
The reason I like to hand file is because I like to 'tickle' a chain on the saw every tank or two.
Back when I was running a true care crew of five I would machine grind and have a dozen or so sharp chains on site ready to go.
The reason being is payroll is a killer cost and it's not a time to be waiting on someone to hand file a chain when labor cost are ticking away at well over $100. per hour.
Now that I'm retired it is much more relaxing, I enjoy the break. Plus I like to 'tune' a chain to the powerhead and bar that it is on. The instant feedback from sharpening by hand in the field is awesome.
I am not a "PRO" chainsaw guy, but, I have been running and sharpening chainsaws since the 1960's,,
I too felt that I could never properly hand file a chain,,
THEN,, I bought the PFERD 2-in-1 chainsaw sharpener.
( I got the first one about 2 or 3 years ago )
It is basically a handle that holds 3 files,, and several (maybe four??) guide rails.
It even has the proper angle molded into the handle.
I bought mine for $25 on Amazon,, I honestly feel the chain cuts better than new,, or machine ground.
The only negative is that you need a different one for each size chain,,
so, I have three of them.
A BIG plus,, you can control what part of the file is used.
Rotate the file three times,, (about 9 sharpening's of a 3/8 pitch, 28 inch chain ) then toss the files.
( I don't think I ever tossed a chainsaw file before!! )
I use them with a MS660, a MS261 and a 029 Super (and an electric Milwaukee,, please don't curse me,,, LOL!!
)Chainsaw Pete
ArboristSite Operative
You never defined better. Hand filing is quick and easy. You can do it in the field. Downside is it takes some skill. Grinder is more accurate (assuming the set-up guy knows what he is doing) and it takes less skill. Downside is the heat can soften the cutting edges, it is too easy to remove a lot of good steel, grinders tend to cost a lot of money (cheap ones can ruin a chain very quickly).
oldguy
ArboristSite Lurker
Those who know how to grind don't have those problems.
The answer to your question isn't straight forward. Someone skilled with either will get the same results regardless of which system you're using. Seen plenty of people screw up chains hand filing them, and just as many thay screwed them up on a grinder. I do both, though I prefer to hand file. Burning cutters, (which hardens the cutter, doesn't make it soft.) taking off too much material, wrong angle or whatever anyone thinks makes a grinder a bad idea just doesn't know how to run one. Set up properly with a competent operator they will turn out more consistent chains then a hand sharpened chain, with minimal metal removed, and no fuss. Biggest downside imo, is having to remove the chain. Outside of working with my logging buddy, or doing tree work for someone else, or hitting metal/rocking the chain (where ill just swap out a chain.) I'll just grab the file and run over the chain. It's much faster and allows you to tune the cutters/ depth gauges to the task at hand. Biggest down side is consistency/ keeping uniform angles from side to side. Everyone does it, non domant hand side tends to run off a bit, something you have to be aware of and keep after.
Hermio
Addicted to ArboristSite
I grind with the Pferd 2 in 1 also, and it does indeed cut faster than a new chain. But I tend to have a bit of a bias in cutting pressure so I do not get both directions equal. So, about every 4 or 5 hand filings, I take it to a shop which trues up the chain with a grinder. BTW Pferd makes severl kinds of fils that can be used with the 2 in 1. The original files are not their fastest sharpening. They have ones with a diamond pattern that are faster.I am not a "PRO" chainsaw guy, but, I have been running and sharpening chainsaws since the 1960's,,
I too felt that I could never properly hand file a chain,,
THEN,, I bought the PFERD 2-in-1 chainsaw sharpener.
( I got the first one about 2 or 3 years ago )
It is basically a handle that holds 3 files,, and several (maybe four??) guide rails.
It even has the proper angle molded into the handle.
I bought mine for $25 on Amazon,, I honestly feel the chain cuts better than new,, or machine ground.
The only negative is that you need a different one for each size chain,,
so, I have three of them.
A BIG plus,, you can control what part of the file is used.
Rotate the file three times,, (about 9 sharpening's of a 3/8 pitch, 28 inch chain ) then toss the files.
( I don't think I ever tossed a chainsaw file before!! )
I use them with a MS660, a MS261 and a 029 Super (and an electric Milwaukee,, please don't curse me,,, LOL!!
EastCoastGreg
Excuses are crap, Reasons matter.
Others have said it and I will reiterate a bit. Both work well when the operator knows how to do the respective method. I hand file most of the time…unless…I hit an object and the chain is damaged enough that I need to regrind all the cutter lengths to match. Then I use a grinder to true the chain up dimensionally and reset raker height if needed. I have hit lots of nails, old fencing, rocks in urban tree removals and farm fence rows and that’s when I grind verses file. One job I damaged 5 chains as the trees being removed were part of a fence line from an old horse farm. Personal opinion here…Learn the geometry of a chain and what all the angles mean so the dynamics are understood. Then practice hand filing so you can do it well… then you can fix a chain wherever you are, if needed.
Grinders are suited for output, sharpening several chains every day in the least time with the lowest impact on your body..they also are the fastest option for correcting rocked/chipped chisels. It takes learning to use these in order to not to destroy the cutters from excess heat or cut through tie straps....
Free hand filed chains are often a art form, special and slightly different person to person. A file and gauge fits in the pocket for on the spot field use allowing a whole days worth with upkeep.
I prefer a file because it guarantees I stop and take a break every hour or hour and a half. At this point a 10-20 minute stop allows a full look at the saw, refill and a long enough pause that I start considering things like tiredness, hunger, thirst while offering a mental slow down to consider adjusting my work or my tool layout/placement. The 2 in one is great for in field use, just file and go.
Free hand filed chains are often a art form, special and slightly different person to person. A file and gauge fits in the pocket for on the spot field use allowing a whole days worth with upkeep.
I prefer a file because it guarantees I stop and take a break every hour or hour and a half. At this point a 10-20 minute stop allows a full look at the saw, refill and a long enough pause that I start considering things like tiredness, hunger, thirst while offering a mental slow down to consider adjusting my work or my tool layout/placement. The 2 in one is great for in field use, just file and go.
thenne1713
ArboristSite Guru
Grinder can be set for and operator can use light touch, but any bar mounted file guide jig system (such as Granberg or Oregon) that give 100% consistent angle/ depth/ cutter length is as good as bench vs FREE-HAND. Any system is only as good/ bad as the operator. The newer 2N1 that files cutter/ depth at same time seems negate some errors, but still depends on consistent pressure and # of strokes.
That 2 in 1 is 100% dependant on the chain being right to begin with, before you factor in user error. I'm not a fan of them. Just learn to file and move on with life. No need for gimmicky tools that only work right when the stars align under a red moon.
It's extremely important to know when your file is done as well. Experience is learned through repetition, and making mistakes! A badly sharpened chain will create a lot more work for the operator and could do permanent damage to your saw, seen it many times! I never go out in the woods with less than 3 saws, and maybe a few extra chains as well.
Journeyman machinist and toolmaker here. I use the saw chain machine to reestablish the angles and to make every tooth profile the same, left and right side. After that I touch up the teeth with a file 2-3x before they are set aside for the grinder again. @oldguy is right in his comment. Do y'all know grinding wheels get dull? A grinding wheel has to be 'dressed' to stay sharp. A dull wheel causes them to overheat the tooth and puts a force on the pass that causes uneven sharpening.
Many people don't understand angles. Proof is in looking through their drawer of metal and wood chisels. Their drill bits. Or look at their pocket/hunting knife. A chain saw tooth profile has compound angles that are hard to do by hand consistently. That's why I machine sharpen chains in between file touchups.
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