Hand file vs grinding

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Journeyman machinist and toolmaker here. I use the saw chain machine to reestablish the angles and to make every tooth profile the same, left and right side. After that I touch up the teeth with a file 2-3x before they are set aside for the grinder again. @oldguy is right in his comment. Do y'all know grinding wheels get dull? A grinding wheel has to be 'dressed' to stay sharp. A dull wheel causes them to overheat the tooth and puts a force on the pass that causes uneven sharpening.

Many people don't understand angles. Proof is in looking through their drawer of metal and wood chisels. Their drill bits. Or look at their pocket/hunting knife. A chain saw tooth profile has compound angles that are hard to do by hand consistently. That's why I machine sharpen chains in between file touchups.
I don't recall making that comment but it is true.
 
I like using my grinder more than hand filing.
I tend to do a better job with the grinder, I think it's because my face is only a few inches from it so I can see the cutter better. Lots of people can do just as good or better with a file but im not one of them.
I have spare chains now so I swap them out when dull and grind them when I get home. I dont need to do this but it's how I like to do it.
 
It's extremely important to know when your file is done as well. Experience is learned through repetition, and making mistakes! A badly sharpened chain will create a lot more work for the operator and could do permanent damage to your saw, seen it many times! I never go out in the woods with less than 3 saws, and maybe a few extra chains as well.
exactally, on all accounts. Takes a lot of screwing up to learn something well.
I usually take a few saws along with me, depending on what I'm planning on doing. Lately it's just been take the ms400 and 390xp and a spare bar for one of them. Figure if I get 3 bars between 2 saws pinched, I better stop and reevaluate wtf I'm doing before I kill myself. Always take plenty of chains with, never know when you're going to hit that nail, wire insulator, rock, basket ball mount.....
 
Im a firewood hack, I cut 10-15 cord a year, been doing it for 25 years, never had a grinder, or used one, but damn sure wish I did a few times, I keep my chains as sharp as possible, a couple strokes with a file before I leave the house, and a few strokes with every tank of gas keeps my chains nice and sharp, unless I hit something, than that saw gets put in the truck until I get home to get it re sharpened, which can be time consuming filing by hand
 
That 2 in 1 is 100% dependant on the chain being right to begin with, before you factor in user error. I'm not a fan of them. Just learn to file and move on with life. No need for gimmicky tools that only work right when the stars align under a red moon.
Not really. The 2 in 1 will not assure that all cutters are the same length but it will file to a consistent level of sharpness and raker height. That goes a long way towards productive sawing. And it is much faster than separately hand filing the cutters and the rakers. I get faster cutting speed with the 2 in 1 than with a new chain, and I use Stihl RS chain exclusively on my 500i.
 
It's extremely important to know when your file is done as well. Experience is learned through repetition, and making mistakes! A badly sharpened chain will create a lot more work for the operator and could do permanent damage to your saw, seen it many times! I never go out in the woods with less than 3 saws, and maybe a few extra chains as well.
I go out with an extra bar and chain sometimes. No need for an extra saw in most cases.
 
Not really. The 2 in 1 will not assure that all cutters are the same length but it will file to a consistent level of sharpness and raker height. That goes a long way towards productive sawing. And it is much faster than separately hand filing the cutters and the rakers. I get faster cutting speed with the 2 in 1 than with a new chain, and I use Stihl RS chain exclusively on my 500i.
First, it's not a raker, it's a depth gauge.

Second, the depth gauge does not need adjusted every time the chain gets hit with a file. To add to that, depth gauge(s) should be set for the type of wood being cut and the specific power head and bar/ chain being used.

Third, it doesn't take much to make a stihl chain cut faster then the factory grind, or just about any other factory grind for that matter. It's a universal ah ha moment when you've learned how to sharpen a chain by hand properly, and it cuts better then a new chain.

fourth, everything else I said previously still applies to it 100%.
 
Filing & Grinding are Overrated,

I just buy a new chain when one dulls...


Mad3400
 
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