hand filing

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Gypo Logger said:
Ken, that was me, I'm sunlover3. The guy wanted 48$ on top of the 44$ just to ship it to Canada, so I had it shipped to Jokers. I mean it must weigh a ton.
I'll sell it to you for 150$ LOL
John

I have one of those gathering dust here. If anyone wants to pay shipping from the UK, they can have it....
 
Thor's Hammer said:
I have one of those gathering dust here. If anyone wants to pay shipping from the UK, they can have it....


do you have any idea what it would cost to ship to new york? can you post a pic. if you post a weight i can look up shipping, just tell me what the best carrier is.

thanks
 
KF-
just checked. The vise is an oregon vise, with 2 camming clamps, and a guide roller at each end. Its hardly been used, and still looks new. will post a pic in next few days.
However, shipping is £35 stirling, or about $60. If you want, I shall be over in michigan and idaho in the next few weeks, I'll pop it in my suitcase and post it over there.
 
thor's hammer

i'd be fine with paying 60.00 for it, i can't see you going through the trouble of putting it in your suit case. i'll check with the post office here and see if a international money order is good in the uk. ok

ken
 
Hey Ken, that Thor's Hammer is a good guy, he could have had us all fighting over it!
I think mines better though, it has three clamps. lol
John
 
i've always hand filed, when i tried ground chain i found the wheel would sometimes creat hot spot that would make the chain hard to handfile after i'm to far in the bush most times to consider ground chain i would say if your going to grind a chain you should probably grind the whole chain. i also found the ground chain didnt;' cut as well , maybee it was the operator but i really like my chain to cut when i get a new chain i only fall about 1/2 dozen trees or so then i file it . It takes about 2 files before you can get a new chain cutting descent.I sometimes use a raker gauge when i get in wood 3ft plus consistently , it keeps the saw cutting smoother a little more consistantly .
 
I cut large stumps to ground level several times a week. When your check depends on finishing the stump off, you get good enough at freehand. I have a "stool box". You take the lid off and sit on it, the handle has a slot for holding the bar tip steady. Freehand, always.
 
Why not put it on the saw and sharpen it? That's where it's gonna go anyway. Why did the dull chain come off the saw in the first place? Why wasn't it just sharpened on the saw? Is it really quicker to change the chain than to sharpen it? Your gonna sharpen it anyway sooner or later.
 
BadJohn

BigJohn said:
Why not put it on the saw and sharpen it? That's where it's gonna go anyway. Why did the dull chain come off the saw in the first place? Why wasn't it just sharpened on the saw? Is it really quicker to change the chain than to sharpen it? Your gonna sharpen it anyway sooner or later.

John,

At your rate of pay I'd better not catch you sharpening a chain. Get the dull one off and put a sharp one on. I send a pack out to get sharpened and it is not a big deal. The lost man hours for an ace climber or even an ace ground person to do this is silly

OK, in a pinch and no sharp chains, sure, you'd better know how to do it right.

John how are your saddle sores coming along?

Jack
 
jkrueger said:
John,

At your rate of pay I'd better not catch you sharpening a chain. Get the dull one off and put a sharp one on. I send a pack out to get sharpened and it is not a big deal. The lost man hours for an ace climber or even an ace ground person to do this is silly

OK, in a pinch and no sharp chains, sure, you'd better know how to do it right.

John how are your saddle sores coming along?

Jack
Sorry Jack but it sounds like you aren't very skilled with a chainsaw. I laugh at people who swap chains instead of filing them, you are the one wasting time. And actually, I carry 6 saws on my truck (for my personal use only, I'm a freelance so groundsmen use their employer's saws) and if I hit something bad I will simply swap saws. But it only takes a minute or two to touch up a chain if you're good with a file.

Just because you aren't as good as John in certain skills is no reason to criticize him for doing what he does well.
 
skwerl said:
Sorry Jack but it sounds like you aren't very skilled with a chainsaw. I laugh at people who swap chains instead of filing them, you are the one wasting time. And actually, I carry 6 saws on my truck (for my personal use only, I'm a freelance so groundsmen use their employer's saws) and if I hit something bad I will simply swap saws. But it only takes a minute or two to touch up a chain if you're good with a file.

Just because you aren't as good as John in certain skills is no reason to criticize him for doing what he does well.

Hahah, your jumping the gun here, I'm very good at et'al and I was poking John for some of the job stuff we have done together.
Jack
 
filling

wow if you can file a 3/8 with a twenty eight inch bar with a full house chain, and do a good job, in one or two minutes , your a good man!
 
wradman said:
wow if you can file a 3/8 with a twenty eight inch bar with a full house chain, and do a good job, in one or two minutes , your a good man!
So, you climb and trim while carrying a saw with a 28" bar and full chisel chain? Or is that the saw you use to limb up the stuff for the chipper?

And as a matter of fact, I had to put the 28" bar on one of my 372's today for a stump cut. I hit metal about halfway through and it took me about 8-9 minutes to resharpen the chain. 9-10 strokes on each tooth with a new file. Yes, I had to take a bit off the teeth. Must have been a good 5 minutes longer than a quickie touchup.

How long does it take you to touch up the chain on a 200T with 14" bar? It takes me less than 2 minutes.
 
I've found in the past that swapping chains instead of sharpening the one on the saw eventually left me with a rack of dull chains in need of filing. Yea, that's what I want to do in my off time, catch up on filing chains. Not my idea of relaxation, though I don't mind (actually like) doing it, just as long as it's only one or two.
 
only takes me 2-3 minutes to touch up my 335

much quicker than changing out a chain.
 
Yes, it was I who started this thread, thank you, thank you, hold the applause. Anyone who runs a full house chain on a saw with a 28" bar that may see problems, rocks, objects in res. trees, etc. is not the sharpest knife in the drawer, with all due respect. 8-9 minutes to sharpen a rocked out full house 28" chain, even with a new file, properly? And the rakers as well, 9 strokes, musta needed the rakers done too, yeah right. I only change if it rocked out real good, get to clean the bar as well, mostly just do it then and there. Yes it takes just a few minutes to put an edge on my ms200, 16" bar, but it ain't really ever dull to begin with. Sharpened more than a few (dozen, hundreds?) chains all the way to nothing over the years, I don't care who ya are, it takes a little time to do it right.
 
chain

lol yep that's good clarity ,look like a good oportunity for an arguement lol,
just had to put in my 2 cents. althought it still takes me 10 minutes to file my 335 because i can't see the teeth very well and i'm to stubborn to get glasses.
 
I do it by eye. What can you feel? First you shouldn't hammer your chains so bad that you should need to change it out. Yeah it happens but it better not be happing every day and especially not all day long. I would say 5 times a year. I could see if you drank a 30 pack and went to cutting you would be little numb and find you way to cut through a granite grave marker.

When it comes to sharpening a chain, no time like the present. A sharp chain is one of those small details that gets over looked. Keeping a saw sharp is over looked. Being carefull not to dull the chain is over looked. Maintaining a sharp chain and properly tensioned chain is the only way to run. A dull chain wears on the bar, a loose chain wears on the bar. A saw that wont cut wears on my nerves:chainsaw: :angry2:
 

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