Harbor Freight Chain Grinder On Sale

[Big Woody]

So why are we talking about this kind of stuff on an arborist board, anyway?

Probably because you are so easily distracted. Its like a dog barking at a cat in a tree and then someone walks by carrying a well cooked ribeye. :rockn:

 

[Lakeside53]

Cool!


So why are we talking about this kind of stuff on an arborist board, anyway?

We're just kiling time until sap gets ot of jail.:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[CaseyForrest]

Not quite true.... Not arguing the 1/100 inch issue... but using wide area augmentation, a ground reference station and differential gps, the accuracy is about 1cm... I'll let Casey fill you in on the exact details...

Yes, using a base station and a rover, it IS possible to get within 100th of an inch, if you can hold the rover still enough and level. Ive done it, and seen it done. This is not a GPS device you can go and get at Dicks, or Cabelas. One of our dozers has $70,000 worth of GPS equipment on it, all made by Topcon. The base and the rover are also Topcon. Its 3-D gps, also giving you the same accuracy in elevation. Once youve got your existing irons set into the program, everything else is cake.

I am not the surveyer, nor have I taken classes. Most of my experience is with a stationary rotating lazer, and a Transit gun. I have however, used the rover to find corners of a foundation of a sign, and after the points were staked, I measure using the 3,4,5 method and measuring diagonals and they were right on. If you want to get into accuracy of the GPS, you are right, splitting hairs worrying about 100th's, but the fractions acctually go down to thousandths. Mind you getting that accurate in the field is impossible.

Im speaking from real world experience, not from what Ive heard third hand.

 

[Paul61]

Reply for Big Woody,

Yes, NASA, Lockheed and McDonnel-Douglas, amongst others, found out that Ti DOES machine like butter when using liquid nitrogen as coolant! That's how they machined most of the original SR-71 parts and a lot of the Mercury, Gemini, and Apollo parts. It used to be classified Top Secret!

I've never seen it done, I was born after it was obsolete , but from what I have been able to learn it must have been a fascinating sight to see. Nowadays with CBN, TiN, Carbide, and Diamond inserts, they use room temp coolant. Less operator stress...:biggrinbounce2:

Andy1234

Andy, Big Woody, Cerial,

I used this stuff (Liquid Nitrogen) for shrink fits back in the 70's.......it's just about the nastiest crap out there. I wonder if any of those poor saps hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: ) bit the dust while machining with it? I read somewhere that the vapour replaces the surrounding oxygen and can suffocate ya?
Best one I heard was an uncle of mine who burned his lathe down machining Magnesium ,as the chips caught fire !

 

[sawinredneck]

Andy, Big Woody, Cerial,

I used this stuff (Liquid Nitrogen) for shrink fits back in the 70's.......it's just about the nastiest crap out there. I wonder if any of those poor saps hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: ) bit the dust while machining with it? I read somewhere that the vapour replaces the surrounding oxygen and can suffocate ya?
Best one I heard was an uncle of mine who burned his lathe down machining Magnesium ,as the chips caught fire !

Seen an old 4-ax mill burned up the sameway!!!!!! Have yet to see Ti burn, but there is no way to put it out!!!!!
Loved the SAP refference BTW!!!!!
As for machining Ti, NEVER use TiN cutters!!!!!!!! The Ti interacts with the TiN, bad thing!! I have cut it with HSS, just have to be paitient, carbide is OK, but wears very fast,then you have to watch for the sparks, don't want to "light up you're life" ya know!!! Never got to play with diamond cutter. I think the nastiest stuff I ever machined was an experimental tool steel back in the early 90's, called ASP-30. Used it in a mold shop once, never seen or heard of it since, carbide shell mill got pissy taking .010" a pass, super hard!!!
Andy

 

[Andy1234]

Cool!


So why are we talking about this kind of stuff on an arborist board, anyway?

Why not? Would you rather read more about why Stihl is better then Husky, etc, etc, over and over?

Variety is the spice of life after all. Just ask the Dolmar and Echo guys...

Andy

 

[Paul61]

Hey Andy,

Is it true all the Ti for the Blackbird came from the Ruski's?

What's the deal with the Ti bars I see on Ebay, for real, or just coated?

 

[Lakeside53]

Hey Andy,

What's the deal with the Ti bars I see on Ebay, for real, or just coated?

Just an alloy... mostly marketing, but in brand you are seeing on ebay the Ti series are decent bars.

 

[sawinredneck]

Hey Andy,

Is it true all the Ti for the Blackbird came from the Ruski's?

I seriously doubt it, Ti has been know of since 1840, but nobody knew what to do with it, or how to do anything with it. It wasn't until the 1940's that it came to be workable.
As for the bars, I have to agree with lakeside, to machine a full Ti bar, the price would be astronomical!!!!!
(Too many Andy's) The other Andy

 

[Andy1234]

Hey Andy,

Is it true all the Ti for the Blackbird came from the Ruski's?

What's the deal with the Ti bars I see on Ebay, for real, or just coated?

Yup,

The CIA made up a few front companies and bought the Ti in the late '50's and early '60's from the Russians. If I remember correctly, Siberia has the world's largest Ti ore reserves.

Other Andy, you are correct about TiN, my bad.

FWIW,
Andy

 

[manual]

Never used a electric chain saw sharpener. But have sharpened alot of band saw blades using a Wright sharpener. proper way to do that is to let the grinding wheel "kiss" the blade. don't over grind because for 1 you will burn the tip and 2 you can create minute cracks in the gullet that will break your blade when you are cutting wood. I was able to get 8 t0 10 sharpenings per blade if done right.
theres no way anybodys going to throw away a 55 dollar blade after first use.

Sap if you are out there reading this I just want to let you Know that 3M makes more than scotch brights. and shame on you for not promoting there other abrasive products.

Also the only thing that we don't grind on airplanes is the depleated uranium
that is used for counter balance in flight controls.

 

[04ultra]

press to hard and you'll see sparks....

 

[THALL10326]

press to hard and you'll see sparks....

Thats a nice looking grinder even if it does make some sparks, wait I think all of them make sparks don't they,lol

 

[Lakeside53]

I bet it could cut a tomahawk like a knife! of course, sparks would fly and we can't have that on a grinder...

 

[THALL10326]

I bet it could cut a tomahawk like a knife! of course, sparks would fly and we can't have that on a grinder...

I bet if that grinder were even used it would be ok. I read something where some guy makes this thing and doesn't warrant it all and even in so many words says you shouldn't use it. Smart feller he is. He claims you can buy his I guess to look at and go to the store and get a REAL one to use real cheap. Doesn't seem any point in his and he even says so, thats a .03 IQ for ya,lol.............

 

[04ultra]

I bet it could cut a tomahawk like a knife! of course, sparks would fly and we can't have that on a grinder...

Ya think......:rockn: :rockn:

 

[Paul61]

Right on Dean!

I was so pi$$ed @ such a boneheaded comment, actually picked up my old Machinists handbook and had a look @ the heat treating section to refresh the mind. Pay attention Sappy, (this is old school to most guys here),it's time we learned you somethin;

Heat Treat & drawing...... 101.

To draw (or Temper ) piece of previously hardened toolsteel (I'll tell you how to properly H.T. steel , if you require?):

Sappy, this means that the toolsteel is way to hard after heat treating and must be slightly annealed (softened) so it will not fracture in use. Remember now Sap (this is important!), this applies only to steel with a percentage of Carbon in excess of .6%, we're not dealing with anything case hardened here.

The tempering process only starts @ 430 deg. Fahrenheit (pale yellow).............this range is used for H.S.S. drills & milling cutters, stuff that is made to cut softer steels. Approx. hardness here is Rockwell"C" 66-68,(depending on steel type) or as hard as you can get without breakage occurring.

The heat range goes up to approx. 640 deg. f. (light blue) , if any reasonable hardness is still desired.

Now Sappy, this is critical here............you'll only see a sign of purple or dark blue occurring @ approx. 520 deg. f.

Now Sappy, think about this a minute and remember what the guys are saying re. skilled grinder operators and re. the amount of heat generated by a grinding wheel that passes into the chain tooth??

Sap.....if you can comprehend any of these learnins (?), you can see that unless you're re-heating heating the cutting edge to 500 deg. ++, you're not drawing (or tempering.....remember?) any hardness from the steel.

Now Sappy...........I know it's hard for you to have anyone try and explain this stuff to ya but, PLEASE........... let the guys with the honest questions have them answered intelligently, and try not to destroy all the threads in this place?

She was in jail @ the time of this post so.......................here ya go GIRL!

 

[coveredinsap]

She was in jail @ the time of this post so.......................here ya go GIRL!

I can tell just by reading your post that you've never actually done much if any hardening/tempering of carbon steel(s) yourself...and neither have many others who had similar comments.

 

[coveredinsap]

She was in jail @ the time of this post so.......................here ya go GIRL!

Oops...double tap.

Also...1050 steel, which is a plain carbon steel...with .5% carbon, is still a 'carbon steel'....as is 1020, with only .2 carbon. Different steel alloys, different hardening and tempering properties.

(By the way, there are carbon steels (alloys) that will 'work harden' just from the heat of cutting them by hand with a hack saw.)

 

[Paul61]

I can tell just by reading your post that you've never actually done much if any hardening/tempering of carbon steel(s) yourself...and neither have many others who had similar comments.

Wrong again Sappy (as usual), it seems you're makin that crap outa MILD STEEL................HAH........no wonder there's no Warranty

That's the diff. between an amature Blacksmith (tomahawk maker) & a
TOOL & DIE MAKER.................the former creates un-warranteed garbage........the latter creates the tools that produce the equipment you use.
This is probably beyond your ability to understand though but, I'm sure Google has just slowed a bit:hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:
BTW
Not to degrade the REAL Blacksmiths on the site.