Harbor Freight Chain Grinder On Sale

[Paul61]

Personally I don't use a grinder or handfile or even buy new ones. I find that if you just re-krome them in the fish tank then nobody's the wiser and they look like brand new.


Why would you want to re-chrome the goldfish?

 

[04ultra]

Chain grinders must have been invented by the evil empire of stihl. They just want you to buy more chains.

Personally I don't use a grinder or handfile or even buy new ones. I find that if you just re-krome them in the fish tank then nobody's the wiser and they look like brand new.

It's just a saw chain for christ's sake! :hmm3grin2orange:

Hey I'm buying one online so I can chrome all my bars and chain so they shine nice..

 

[Lakeside53]

Personally I don't use a grinder or handfile or even buy new ones. I find that if you just re-krome them in the fish tank then nobody's the wiser and they look like brand new.


Why would you want to re-chrome the goldfish?

'cos the gold plate on those fish is worth $690 an ounce, so sorry fish but your color scheme is goin' to change!

 

[LarryTheCableGuy]

Wait, wait, wait! Did you say FISH tank? I may have messed up BAD.

I was using the toilet tank...but I did turn some "brown trout" into gold!

:jawdrop:

 

[klickitatsacket]

Forward it to whoever you want dude. I've also got a forge and do my own metal work, and the simple fact is that if you are heating steel enough to make sparks, then you're changing the temper of the steel, which means that you're changing the hardness. Your buddy knows that already, though (or he should).

Sap you may have a forge and play but you are NO Blacksmith my pitch covered friend. I was a millwright / fabricator for 10 years before injuries forced me to do other things. After I left the proffesion I started making custom knives. I have been a hobby blacksmith for 12 years. I went to school for blacksmithing and have spent many a weekend at blacksmithing work shops where I learned how to heat treat my own steal. I am telling you this so you will let this bone go and not make a bigger fool of yourself. Unless you are heating the steal up enough to change color you are not effecting it enough to make any noticable differance in the hardness of the steal. Taking the mass of the tooth and the temperature of the tooth, counteracting against the mass and temerature of the surface removed; it will not produce enough heat to even feel with your bare skin let alone change the hardness of the tooth. If you are properly grinding the teeth and only taking a minimal amount per pass you will not have a problem. If you are too agressive or let the wheel sit on the tooth then you will build up heat and ruin the chain. BTW guys for those who know I just picked up a beautiful 100# Peter Wright anvil last week at a garage sale for a song. This is my first Peter Wright and as proud of it as I was with my first car.

 

[Paul61]

Right on Dean!

I was so pi$$ed @ such a boneheaded comment, actually picked up my old Machinists handbook and had a look @ the heat treating section to refresh the mind. Pay attention Sappy, (this is old school to most guys here),it's time we learned you somethin;

Heat Treat & drawing...... 101.

To draw (or Temper ) piece of previously hardened toolsteel (I'll tell you how to properly H.T. steel , if you require?):

Sappy, this means that the toolsteel is way to hard after heat treating and must be slightly annealed (softened) so it will not fracture in use. Remember now Sap (this is important!), this applies only to steel with a percentage of Carbon in excess of .6%, we're not dealing with anything case hardened here.

The tempering process only starts @ 430 deg. Fahrenheit (pale yellow).............this range is used for H.S.S. drills & milling cutters, stuff that is made to cut softer steels. Approx. hardness here is Rockwell"C" 66-68,(depending on steel type) or as hard as you can get without breakage occurring.

The heat range goes up to approx. 640 deg. f. (light blue) , if any reasonable hardness is still desired.

Now Sappy, this is critical here............you'll only see a sign of purple or dark blue occurring @ approx. 520 deg. f.

Now Sappy, think about this a minute and remember what the guys are saying re. skilled grinder operators and re. the amount of heat generated by a grinding wheel that passes into the chain tooth??

Sap.....if you can comprehend any of these learnins (?), you can see that unless you're re-heating heating the cutting edge to 500 deg. ++, you're not drawing (or tempering.....remember?) any hardness from the steel.

Now Sappy...........I know it's hard for you to have anyone try and explain this stuff to ya but, PLEASE........... let the guys with the honest questions have them answered intelligently, and try not to destroy all the threads in this place?

 

[04ultra]

Paul61 .. great post..You'll have to wait for an answer..

 

[Paul61]

Ultra
yu know how it is when someone tries to re-write the book, especially when it's your trade / business.
I sit here and do alot a readin & learnin on the saw stuff, cause I'm kinda new @ it, and you fellas know your ****!
If I can contribute a little from my trade (Die maker) in return, kinda makes me feel all warm inside

 

[BlueRidgeMark]

,it's time we learned you somethin;

Yeah, but don't hold your breath. If he had not been banned for 3 days, he'd already be arguing with you.



But that's okay - some of us can learn from your post. Thanks for the info!

 

[upandcommer]

ok so here is the question i bought one of the cheepy chain grinders and have never been able to replicate the hack job i paid someone to do to my chains all of them did in fact have a tinge of dark blue to purple on them when i used them when the man i paid to sharpen them was done but have never been able to replicate this with my cheapy grinder how is it that he was able to do this and i cannot? Is it because i only take off the chain what is required to make the edge clean and sharp again, whereas he removed too much material too fast?

 

[Paul61]

Blue,

Thats a shame, was hoping to hear from him tonight

I learn alot more from you fellas than that little bit I scribble down here and there.

Like I told the Sapster, some of my Die Maker buds have worked @ the Oregon plant for years. I'm gonna pick their brains re. the cutter material & hardness etc. Gonna also let them know that I've found some of their loops softer than other Oregon ones..........not consistant ?? Is the box store chain cheaper quality that the dealer stuff?? I've not bought any but, it looks like crap & it's no cheaper $.

I can tell you that the chain manufacturing process is fantastic. Us automotive die makers are use to working to a thou. or so..........these guys regularily work to tenths of a thou. (.0001") on the carbide dies that stamp the chain parts, they call us butchers !
The presses run in the thousands of strokes / minute, with the prog. dies stamping multiple parts per stroke. AWSOME.

 

[04ultra]

Ultra
yu know how it is when someone tries to re-write the book, especially when it's your trade / business.
I sit here and do alot a readin & learnin on the saw stuff, cause I'm kinda new @ it, and you fellas know your ****!
If I can contribute a little from my trade (Die maker) in return, kinda makes me feel all warm inside

There are alot of people that are willing to listen to posts like yours .. Chime in any time were listening..Just wait you know you'll get an answer ..LOL :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: in a few days..

 

[LarryTheCableGuy]

I can tell you that the chain manufacturing process is fantastic. Us automotive die makers are use to working to a thou. or so..........these guys regularily work to tenths of a thou. (.0001") on the carbide dies that stamp the chain parts, they call us butchers !
The presses run in the thousands of strokes / minute, with the prog. dies stamping multiple parts per stroke. AWSOME.

WOW! That IS damned impressive!

 

[CaseyForrest]

Wow, working to a .0001 tolerance is mighty impressive!

On a side note, We use GPS to survey, set points, and run grade when the lazer isnt pratical, and we run everything down to a hundreth of an inch, either grade or finding points.

 

[BlueRidgeMark]

Casey, I mean no disrespect, but somebody in your field needs to study up a bit on "least significant digit" and "measurement error". GPS is not accurate to FEET, let alone hundredths of an inch. No, not even DGPS.

You can CALCULATE measurements to a hundredth or even a millionth based on GPS measurments, but such calculations are meaningless.


Nice to hear somebody is trying to do a good job, though. It's just a bit misguided to try to work to that accuracy with GPS.

 

[Lakeside53]

Casey, I mean no disrespect, but somebody in your field needs to study up a bit on "least significant digit" and "measurement error". GPS is not accurate to FEET, let alone hundredths of an inch. No, not even DGPS.
.

Not quite true.... Not arguing the 1/100 inch issue... but using wide area augmentation, a ground reference station and differential gps, the accuracy is about 1cm... I'll let Casey fill you in on the exact details...

 

[Andy1234]

Reply for Big Woody,

Yes, NASA, Lockheed and McDonnel-Douglas, amongst others, found out that Ti DOES machine like butter when using liquid nitrogen as coolant! That's how they machined most of the original SR-71 parts and a lot of the Mercury, Gemini, and Apollo parts. It used to be classified Top Secret!

I've never seen it done, I was born after it was obsolete , but from what I have been able to learn it must have been a fascinating sight to see. Nowadays with CBN, TiN, Carbide, and Diamond inserts, they use room temp coolant. Less operator stress...:biggrinbounce2:

Andy1234

 

[BlueRidgeMark]

Not quite true.... Not arguing the 1/100 inch issue... but using wide area augmentation, a ground reference station and differential gps, the accuracy is about 1cm... I'll let Casey fill you in on the exact details...

Well, for the sake of argument, if the accuracy is about 1 cm, then my point still stands. 1 cm is your BEST CASE useful accuracy, not hundredths of an inch. And in the real world, not even that. If you start with 1 cm base accuracy, and then take measurements off of that, every measuring instrument further degrades the accuracy. Measurement errors are cumulative. Every angle, every distance you measure ADDS the inherent error of that measuring instrument. You can calculate and cross check all you want, but you can't get meaningful accuracy that is several orders of magnitude BETTER than the least accurate instrument you are using. (Which is what measuring to hundredths of an inch would require.) Meaningful accuracy is always LESS accurate than the least accurate instrument. So even if you START with something that has a .0000001" accuracy, and even ONE of the instruments used to process that info has an accuracy of (let's say) 30 meters, your best case accuracy is less than 30 meters, NOT .0000001". It's a weak link in the chain kind of thing.


For the sake of accuracy:

DGPS is officially accurate to about 10 meters, but "typically accurate" to about 1 meter. WAAS has about the same accuracy as DGPS. (ibid)

If you are within the coverage area of a WADGPS (Wide Area DGPS) network, you can get measurement accuracy of 1 cm.

 

[BlueRidgeMark]

Yes, NASA, Lockheed and McDonnel-Douglas, amongst others, found out that Ti DOES machine like butter when using liquid nitrogen as coolant! That's how they machined most of the original SR-71 parts and a lot of the Mercury, Gemini, and Apollo parts. It used to be classified Top Secret!

Cool!


So why are we talking about this kind of stuff on an arborist board, anyway?

 

[RaisedByWolves]

Im thinking he ment with his triangulation methods, not the accuracy of the GPS.