Help Picking A Small Limbing Saw

[AOD]

I vote for Husky 339XP.

Listed as 8.8 lb powerhead and 2.4 Hp.

It came with a 16" bar. I replaced that with a 13" Oregon Micro - Lite Chainsaw Bar (130MPBK095) and WoodlandPro 20NK 56 DL chain from Baileys a site sponsor.

I have dropped some trees slightly longer than the bar, and it did not bog down doing it.

This saw is a replacement for a worn out Stihl 019T.

've heard good things about the 339, the only downside is the price! That thing is close to $600, comparable to the 200 rear handle, it's stupid to spend as much on a small rear handle as you would on an MS361 and a bit more will get you a 7900! I think those prices on the pro rear handles are ridiculous!

 

[Taxmantoo]

I do have a Redmax dealer in town and both the GZ 4000 and G3800AVS are a few pounds lighter than my current saw. Both Redmax saws look like they come with a 16" or 18" bar. Do you think a 14" bar is too small?

I've got a 12", 45DL setup on my 10532/GZ400. I'm 99% sure it's the same engine as the GZ4000, the displacement, stratocharge port layout, and power ratings are the same. I never intended to cut anything over 10" with it, that's what bigger saws are for.

 

[flxblx]

've heard good things about the 339, the only downside is the price! That thing is close to $600, comparable to the 200 rear handle, it's stupid to spend as much on a small rear handle as you would on an MS361 and a bit more will get you a 7900! I think those prices on the pro rear handles are ridiculous!

Well it depends on what job you are doing.
I ran the 339 for about 6 hours today. Trimming back a creek line that is heavily overgrown. Very few large trees, mostly in the 3" to 8" diameter range.

The other option to clear this out is an excavator that will loosen a large amount of soil. This also creates new washes from surface water.

The branches on these trees keep growing away from the creek towards the sunlight and a tillable field. Basically about a 3/4 of a mile of edge.

Loss of productive ground plus I have been told that a new windshield for my combine is in the $900 ballpark.

But the ultimate answer is I like to run chain saws.!!!

 

[RRCRC]

Everone who uses my MS180 loves it. Great little limb saw!

 

[nikocker]

If weight is your primary concern, take a look at the new Husky 435 with the X-torq engine. It's listed at 9.3 lbs. Now the Husky 440 is 9.8 lbs so that's heavier (obviously) but people assume that they are the same series therfore the same weight.
The 435 would give your dad a very similar feel as the 346 with about 2 lbs. less weight, while still featuring a 16" bar so the reach would be better for limbing duties. I think the MRSP on the 435 is $249.

Al

 

[SawTroll]

You just bought a small limbing saw... the 346XP...

That one is a great small saw... already lightweight...

Gary

Exactly what I thought when I read the initial post! :agree2:


@Larry;
Add a shorter bar (15") for the 346xp, and be done with it!


If the urge for a smaller saw is strong enough, get the 339xp - I did, but really just for the heck of it, not because I needed it....LOL

A MS200 would also be a good choise.

 

[nikocker]

Yeah, but Niko if he does that he won't cure his bout with CAD! He needs to buy another saw. :hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:

Al

 

[SawTroll]

..... Plus with two saws we could both take a saw and double our output. One person can buck the larger logs and the other can walk around and limb/prune and buck the small stuff. ...

That is a good reason for another saw!

... I do have a Redmax dealer in town and both the GZ 4000 and G3800AVS are a few pounds lighter than my current saw. Both Redmax saws look like they come with a 16" or 18" bar. Do you think a 14" bar is too small? ...

A 14" (or a 13") bar is not to small on those - I mostly use 13" on my 339xp.

 

[SawTroll]

Yeah, but Niko if he does that he won't cure his bout with CAD! He needs to buy another saw. :hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:

Al

Sure he does - I didn't read his second post before I posted......

..and I understand that another 346xp isn't an option.

 

[belgian]

So I take it no one thinks the MS 200 (rear handle) is the best fit for me and the MS 192 is probably not worth it given the saw I already have?

Maybe I should just stick with the one saw?

Thanks again. You guys rock!

I barely touch the 242XP anymore after I got the MS200. This saw combines excellent power with light weight and I don't regret that purchase for a minute. Everyone who saw me working the small branch stuff with this saw was impressed by its performance and handling.

Now I am a small guy (147 pds for 1,66 m) and do not have the muscle like Gary Gasoline or Hoss , so what might appear light to those folks does not count necessarily for me.

I don't like swapping bars either on one saw. My MS200 comes with a 12" bar and love it.

 

[rburg]

The redmax saws will take bars from 12-18". Mine came with an 18 but I purchased a 14 for it. The 18 helps with reach but the 14 works just as good for the actual cutting. I have used mine for several takedowns of trees in the 8-12" range that I cut down at 5' above the ground due to limited room to drop the trees.

 

[jetskiman]

Well it depends on what job you are doing.
I ran the 339 for about 6 hours today. Trimming back a creek line that is heavily overgrown. Very few large trees, mostly in the 3" to 8" diameter range.

The other option to clear this out is an excavator that will loosen a large amount of soil. This also creates new washes from surface water.

The branches on these trees keep growing away from the creek towards the sunlight and a tillable field. Basically about a 3/4 of a mile of edge.

Loss of productive ground plus I have been told that a new windshield for my combine is in the $900 ballpark.

But the ultimate answer is I like to run chain saws.!!!

I realize you are loosing some tillable ground but doesent the windbreak and erosion qualities of the trees make up for that with higher yields throughought the rest of the field?

 

[flxblx]

I realize you are loosing some tillable ground but doesent the windbreak and erosion qualities of the trees make up for that with higher yields throughought the rest of the field?

I agree.

This is a trimming back, to maintain control.
Not a complete take out.
That is why I prefer the chainsaw method instead of an excavator or bulldozer.

 

[excess650]

I'll add another recommendation for the Dolmar PS-401 or Makita DCS401. Out of the box it may need to have the limiters removed and carb retuned richer, but this seems to be the case with most new saws. Mine has been further muffler modded and retuned to higher rpm. This past Saturday I helped a friend cutting in a particularly brushy spot, and I was glad to have the small, lightweight saw. I cut oak up to 14" and it didn't struggle. While tuning I had noodled with the full length of the 16" bar buried, and it just kept cuttin'. Like I said, mine has been muffler modded and retuned. These have been discontinued, but are still available if you look around. Powerhead weight is 8.8# and 16" bar seems to be standard, magnesium cases....$250 or so.

Brad's choice after modding was the Redmax 3800($250-$280), also discontinued but still available. He also ported the Shindaiwa 377. These are like 9.2# and 9.5# respectively, and have vertically split mag cases.

The Husqvarna 339xp and Stihl MS200 would also be great choices if they weren't so expensive. The 339xp costs almost as much as a 346xp, and the MS200 about $100 more.

The subject of lightweight but quality saws has been discussed fairly frequently and passionately, so here are some links:

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=82741

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=92040&highlight=shindaiwa+377

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=87439&highlight=shindaiwa+377

 

[lmalterna]

FLXBLX,
I am about to help a buddy clear overhang on his fencerows and am talking to him about going in on a Stihl Kombi with extension and powersaw head- have you tried anyhthing like this for trimming back?? I will be strapped in the bucket as he crawls the fencerows(will get out of the steep slopes...).

To OP:
I bought a MS180C for samll trimming and before I got to use it. My wife bought me a 346XP, I have not started the MS180C... Actual in use the 346XP feels so light, I do not feel the need for something smaller but I feel like the MS180 would handle small stuff for a long time. I may keep it just to train my son on safe saw use.
I would love the MS200R but really cannot justify that kind of money for non pro use. + the Stihl tech claims they are a ##### kitty to work on and he charges accordingly.


2Door

 

[blsnelling]

Do you want a pro built saw? If so, then skip any of the little Stihls. I've written a whold thread on these saws, but I'll recommend Dolmar 401, Shiny 377, or Redmax 3800. Check out my thread for details.

 

[pbuehning]

MS200 rear handle

I can't comment on some of the other saws mentioned here - cause I've never run them. I can say with all honesty that the MS200 is a snotty little b**t@H of a saw that I love to run. Yes it is pricey(I was flush the day I bought it) and have never looked back. Its fast, nimble, light and cuts like a raped ape. I've easily buried 10" of the 14" bar and it just keeps screaming.

My biggest complaint is that I have to remember to pickup a bigger saw so that I can keep this saw along time; I believe that using an underpowered saw in big wood will prematurely shorten its life.

 

[AOD]

The Husqvarna 339xp and Stihl MS200 would also be great choices if they weren't so expensive. The 339xp costs almost as much as a 346xp, and the MS200 about $100 more

346xp MSRP = $479.95
339xp MSRP = $499.95

The Husky tophandles are stupid expensive too, the 338xpt is $499.95 and even the 334t is $369.95, nearly $100 more than a 192t! For an extra $50-60 you can get the 200t instead of the 338. I wonder why their prices are so high on their small pro saws?

 

[excess650]

346xp MSRP = $479.95
339xp MSRP = $499.95

The Husky tophandles are stupid expensive too, the 338xpt is $499.95 and even the 334t is $369.95, nearly $100 more than a 192t! For an extra $50-60 you can get the 200t instead of the 338. I wonder why their prices are so high on their small pro saws?

I suspect its a matter of how few production units are made and sold. We're spoiled into thinking that smaller should be less expensive, but those small parts probably cost just as much to make as the larger ones.

Both the MS200 and 339xp appealed to me from a functionality point of view, but the price puts me off. Now that I've modded one of my (3) DCS401s I'm seriously pleased with the results.

BTW, I think the MSRP on the 346xp is now closer to $510. The 357xp is over $700, and that is MORE than I paid for my 372xp, delivered, 6 months ago.

 

[flxblx]

FLXBLX,
I am about to help a buddy clear overhang on his fencerows and am talking to him about going in on a Stihl Kombi with extension and powersaw head- have you tried anyhthing like this for trimming back?? I will be strapped in the bucket as he crawls the fencerows(will get out of the steep slopes...).

To OP:
I bought a MS180C for samll trimming and before I got to use it. My wife bought me a 346XP, I have not started the MS180C... Actual in use the 346XP feels so light, I do not feel the need for something smaller but I feel like the MS180 would handle small stuff for a long time. I may keep it just to train my son on safe saw use
I would love the MS200R but really cannot justify that kind of money for non pro use. + the Stihl tech claims they are a ##### kitty to work on and he charges accordingly.


2Door

I have a Stihl pole saw; do not remember the model right of top of head.

It extends to 12'. What I find is that I run it fully extended, plus toooo much of the time with power head above my head. That gets to my back very quickly plus is not very safe. Limbs fall straight down.

I have not tried using the pole saw in a loader bucket. I have run a chain saw from a loader bucket, that got a little too SCARY for me.

I am just finishing up mounting a hydraulic limb clipper on my loader. Needed another valve plumbed in to run it. It slides over a bale spear. It looks like a anvil type lopping shear, and will clip limbs up to 8".