Well the only thing I've ever had mess up square chain is a rock I couldn't see, you learn fast, or you make the same mistake.
Help with sawing technique
- Thread starter LostInTheWoods
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Hoosierdaddy
New Member
Seen the original post was from back in December. Was there Ice on or in these Trees? That could be a problem. :greenchainsaw:Cut some hard Maple few years back (50) trees total, went through 2 chains that day cause of the ice.
Taxed Mind
ArboristSite Lurker
Maybe the original poster needed help with correct sharpening techniques? Could the chain have had a poor edge meaning it would blunt too quickly or not have the correct cutting angle to it? Using a metal guide for filing helps a lot. Old timers here think they are for newbies only, but my chains always seem better to me than the freehand stuff I see from some others.
bullbuck
ArboristSite Guru
no way around it being a rookie is tough,regardless of what you are doing...
logbutcher
Addicted to ArboristSite
The guy is careful cutting...it's what he says. Can't be hitting dirt.
Chain temper can too easily be lost by improper mechanical grinding...burning the edge. Once it's gone. forget it.
Advice? Learn how to hand sharpen with the any number of filing guides or ( when you get good like (fill in expert here_____) , freehand file
). The Pferd system does both edge and raker in a pass. And the stump vises make it simple in the field.
Chain temper can too easily be lost by improper mechanical grinding...burning the edge. Once it's gone. forget it.
Advice? Learn how to hand sharpen with the any number of filing guides or ( when you get good like (fill in expert here_____) , freehand file
). The Pferd system does both edge and raker in a pass. And the stump vises make it simple in the field.
Greystoke
Tarzan
My two cents
Most green horn saw users have a hard time not cutting dirt. If the logs are dirty try to keep from pulling the dirt into the cut; instead use your chain to pull the dirt away from the cut by either tickling the side closest to you with the tip (also have to have good saw control), and in effect throwing the dirt away from the cut instead of grinding it into the wood. Other side of the log...backbar it. Any time your chain is near dirt or rocks, run low rpm's, as the slower your chain is moving, the slower you will dull it. Also it is very possible to make one large beak of your saw tooth, either hand filing or grinding; Square or round. A beaked saw tooth will dull on first hard limb. Probably the best way to learn how to sharpen a chain, and keep it sharp is to be a Busheler for about 5 years!
Most green horn saw users have a hard time not cutting dirt. If the logs are dirty try to keep from pulling the dirt into the cut; instead use your chain to pull the dirt away from the cut by either tickling the side closest to you with the tip (also have to have good saw control), and in effect throwing the dirt away from the cut instead of grinding it into the wood. Other side of the log...backbar it. Any time your chain is near dirt or rocks, run low rpm's, as the slower your chain is moving, the slower you will dull it. Also it is very possible to make one large beak of your saw tooth, either hand filing or grinding; Square or round. A beaked saw tooth will dull on first hard limb. Probably the best way to learn how to sharpen a chain, and keep it sharp is to be a Busheler for about 5 years!
Taxed Mind
ArboristSite Lurker
I should perhaps make it clear that by this I meant my physical, geographical location, rather than those on this site.
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