imagineero
Addicted to ArboristSite
You used to see these on all the older saws with big bars, but I've never seen one on a modern saw. Are they still available, and are they safe?
Shaun
Shaun
helper handles on modern saws?
- Thread starter imagineero
- Start date
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I don't imagine there's any reason for 'em any more, now that saws don't weigh 100+ pounds dry.
EDIT: (that is, milling applications aside)
EDIT: (that is, milling applications aside)
imagineero
Addicted to ArboristSite
For milling, There's alaskans.
I'm thinking more of felling trees over 5' diameter. I've seen a few vids of guys with 6' bars felling big trees, and it didn't look like there was a whole lot of precision available in terms of lining the saw up. Sure you can get the dogs where you want them, but the tip end seems a but more hit and miss. Of course, with the helper handle you'd on'y be able to cut trees smaller than the bar length....
I was wondering if they are still made, and if they are safe to use.
Shaun
I'm thinking more of felling trees over 5' diameter. I've seen a few vids of guys with 6' bars felling big trees, and it didn't look like there was a whole lot of precision available in terms of lining the saw up. Sure you can get the dogs where you want them, but the tip end seems a but more hit and miss. Of course, with the helper handle you'd on'y be able to cut trees smaller than the bar length....
I was wondering if they are still made, and if they are safe to use.
Shaun
There's no reason you need a 6' bar for a 5' tree. A bar 28"-32" will work just fine.
Thats why falling big timber with big saws is soo hard lol, but the OG fallers had aplenty of precision in their game ! !
Ed*L
ArboristSite Guru
You can't start a cut in a tree with a 5' (or larger bar). As soon as the saw is turned sideways, it will throw the chain, long bars sag. You have to start the cuts with a shorter bar, then put the long bar in the cut and start sawing.
I used to have a helper handle on my 5' Stihl bar. The bar was a hardnose type, there was a hole where the tip bearing would be, the handle attached there. I had the bar converted to a sprocket tip as the hardnose created to much friction and made the saw work harder than necessary.
It was also impossible to find someone good enough to run the helper handle and keep the saw from bogging.
Ed
I used to have a helper handle on my 5' Stihl bar. The bar was a hardnose type, there was a hole where the tip bearing would be, the handle attached there. I had the bar converted to a sprocket tip as the hardnose created to much friction and made the saw work harder than necessary.
It was also impossible to find someone good enough to run the helper handle and keep the saw from bogging.
Ed
joesawer
Addicted to ArboristSite
No, you don't have to, haven't you ever seen how the old timers ran a two man saw for falling? One guy runs saw, the other has a stick to hold the bar up.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oHSkHeC7bRI
That is a great vid. I've never seen it before. Is the entire vid available anywhere?
Cowboy Billy
ArboristSite Operative
Wow Ed
Cool video
I got a kick out of the electric chainsaw and I've never seen bark peal off a tree like that.
Billy
Cool video
I got a kick out of the electric chainsaw and I've never seen bark peal off a tree like that.Billy
Great vid links
Wow Ed
Cool video
Billy
Bark slides like that are rough on a saw. Fortunately I have never had one that bad. Falling snags sure has its hazards and bark is just one.
That was all I've found so far. I think it was a 40's-50's promotional/safety video. I want a working Atkins chainsaw soooooo badddddd. :chainsawguy:
RandyMac
Stiff Member
Doug Fir bark, rowdy stuff. Only thing worse is Redwood, it will strip off in great slabs.
