To remove the carb do I have to remove the fuel screws? They are though a grommet into the body of the saw. I'll probably have to get a rebuild kit which I should be able to order using the numbers stamped on the top. I just find it odd it doesn't even pop using start fluid or fuel ( I don't use Start fluid a lot on 2 strokes but figured Id Try ).
Hi, Homelite Blue XL-12 Saw, Looking for some information I'd like to rehab it.
- Thread starter JOE.G
- Start date
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Just take the bolts loose then pivot the carb away from the adjustment screws then unhook the linkage, after you have the carburetor tilted in the box you can pull the bolts out of it. A little jenga but have the choke link off to start.
Don't make me do a video, because I will when threatened!
I just pull the hi/lo screws anymore. One less thing to line up and it's quite a snug fit to begin with.
1 turn out from LIGHTLY SEATED, should be in the ball park.
The video is pretty self explanatory, but if you hsve any questions about it just ask.
When I disassembled my carburetor it was fairly clean, but you can see in the pictures that the diaphragm was "stretched "across the anchor points of the pins and screws ,which meant that it shrunk and is not supple like its supposed to be.
When I disassembled my carburetor it was fairly clean, but you can see in the pictures that the diaphragm was "stretched "across the anchor points of the pins and screws ,which meant that it shrunk and is not supple like its supposed to be.
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With good spark and fuel squirted into the cylinder it should fire IF the compression is high enough. You really have to measure it with a gauge meant for small 2-stroke engines. One good test for low compression is to drop about a teaspoon of heavy oil in the spark plug hole and move the saw around to get it to run all around down to the rings, THEN spray some fuel in and see if it fires, if it does, the compression is too low which may just be to stuck or worn rings on an engine that old.
Kit options,
Sdc walbro1
Tillotson 2
Sdc Homelite nos3
Depending on what carburetor you have , there is a Zama option for that saw only and I sold mine so no carb kit to demonstrate, I do remember it having the spring for the lever.
Sdc walbro1
Tillotson 2
Sdc Homelite nos3
Depending on what carburetor you have , there is a Zama option for that saw only and I sold mine so no carb kit to demonstrate, I do remember it having the spring for the lever.
The one above , only model I know of.
Joe , it would be good if you posted some pictures of the "hub"
Will do when I take the cover back off, It is behind the Gear for the chain, By the hub I believe I mean the clutch. I have some sea form soaking the piston and rings. I'v gotten some carbon out, the piston and the cylinder look good, i am not seeing any scuffs or scratches.
The clutch hub should spin off clockwise; generally they are marked. There is a special pin spanner tool to fit, but I use a punch and heavy hammer to spin it.
That said, pictures are useful.
That said, pictures are useful.
I modified a cheap spanner from Amazon, only to do Remington clutches also, I really mangled one before.
That could work, except the Homelite clutch uses a 3 pin spanner not 2.
Good news, I got it running today and it sounds pretty good ( It is a loud saw ). At full throttle it surges a very little I probably could tune it out with some help from you guys. I have a RPM gauge, any ideas on how I should tune it? The throttle also doesn't always full return and it will idle hi, I can push the metal rod back a MM or so and it will hit the stop on the carb and idle well. I ran it for about 15 - 20 Mins and it seems to be running well. I don't like that the chain always spins is this normal ? Thank you
Chain always spinning, not normal. You might have a bent throttle rod ,easy fix and solve the binding problem.
Once the rpms get low enough the spring on the clutch should over come the centrifugal force of the clutch stopping the chain or rather disengage from the drum.
If you get your rpms so low that the saw feels like its gonna stall then the clutch spring is probably weak or broken.
