Holzfforma Portable Chainsaw Mill
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Derf
Addicted to ArboristSite
I got mine a few weeks ago. It is a terrific copy of a Granberg. Some minor differences, but on the whole it had all the pieces, it fit together well, and was of moderately high quality.
I contacted Huztl to see if they would sell longer sections of the rails since they could be used to duplicate Granberg's EZ rail system, but they said they had no plans to. Maybe if they hear enough demand, they will duplicate the rail system.
I contacted Huztl to see if they would sell longer sections of the rails since they could be used to duplicate Granberg's EZ rail system, but they said they had no plans to. Maybe if they hear enough demand, they will duplicate the rail system.
Derf
Addicted to ArboristSite
They shipped the mill pretty cheaply. And the shipping on the saws isn't too bad. The EZ rail system might be long, but the aluminum is pretty light. Besides, pretty sure 'Ol Granberg is having his rails and such made in China and shipped over here. I think it's just a matter of time before Huztl teams up with a US distributor who can accept large shipments and send out domestically for cheap. I've seen that happen in many other areas with other products, so it isn't far fetched. And then we won't have to wait 4-6 weeks for delivery either.
Boogedy_Man
ArboristSite Operative
There are aluminum extrusions available on the internet at good prices. I haven't stumbled upon any that match Granberg's perfectly, but plenty that would work just fine. Keep in mind, also, that Granberg uses lighter rails on the mills 36" and under, and heavier 48" and up.
My delivery took 10 days. I should have been clear it was the length that would be a problem. Granberg makes the stuff states side.
They do have a slow boat they just don't use it. China Post is USPS and the other one is sent ups or FedEx or whatever. Longest of those took 2 weeks unless customs has a peek.
I am thinking about buying some channel and making my own. I read somewhere some 2x2 would make good rails and that would be toteable.
Boogedy_Man
ArboristSite Operative
I deal with more odd shaped logs and stumps than I do nice round symmetrical ones. Maybe I am missing something, but the rails just don't seem wide enough to be beneficial. I have the slabbing brackets or whatever they're called, but they're also too narrow for much of anything.
Boogedy_Man
ArboristSite Operative
I'm working on growing square ones that don't even need to be milled. Just cut to length and frame the barn.
I used mine today for 4 cuts on a log I had already removed a slab from it earlier that I cut by sight.
Got 3 - 2.25" 7ft slabs from that end of the log. It was the first real work out from my farmertec ms660 kit saw has had. The mill is awesome.
I bumped up the jet in the carb to a .76 and wow does it chew wood. It's just a monster.
I gotta get a rail system. My neighbor was with me and I think he is hooked so together we could put a serious hurt on these trees and logs. It's nice to see them turned into something like useful lumber. One of them will be a bench seat for me. I will post a 20 second video in a little while here.
Got 3 - 2.25" 7ft slabs from that end of the log. It was the first real work out from my farmertec ms660 kit saw has had. The mill is awesome.
I bumped up the jet in the carb to a .76 and wow does it chew wood. It's just a monster.
I gotta get a rail system. My neighbor was with me and I think he is hooked so together we could put a serious hurt on these trees and logs. It's nice to see them turned into something like useful lumber. One of them will be a bench seat for me. I will post a 20 second video in a little while here.
You don't need a winch but you should be applying a smooth constant pressure and avoid seesawing the whole mill side to side like you show in the video.
The constant nibbling and twisting will mess up the finish and will end up twisting the milll so that it racks way more than it should which will eventually further mess up the finish.
The chain should be set up so at WOT a constant pressure on the saw still makes a cut. If it does not bog down even when pushed hard, more should be taken off the rakers. If it does bog down then, (because you cannot raise the rakers) more should be taken off the cutters.
The constant nibbling and twisting will mess up the finish and will end up twisting the milll so that it racks way more than it should which will eventually further mess up the finish.
The chain should be set up so at WOT a constant pressure on the saw still makes a cut. If it does not bog down even when pushed hard, more should be taken off the rakers. If it does bog down then, (because you cannot raise the rakers) more should be taken off the cutters.
Fair enough, but it does look like you were half way down a cut?
Japan uses 2 piece glass cubes two grow square melons. The smalness of living spaces also mini's fridges. Too much wasted space w/round mellons? How expensive to make 12' 2 piece squares to grow 9" square posts ? ??
Also as regard video; not only was the mill rocked horizontally, the back rail left corner came off the part of the log used as guide. That will cause grief in the form of excess work in making slab smooth and parallel top and bottom.Uneveness will repeat on next cut down. I have used extension ladder section as mill guide. On 1st cut blocking under low spots to keep cut as flat in three points as possible. Next cuts the ladder has good surface to lay on with hangover front & rear for good star!t and finish of cut, long as I wedge cut open to prevent pinch. We try to help others have the most ^ vertical learning curve. Good, safe fortune to you
Boogedy_Man
ArboristSite Operative
I'm guessing that log wasn't very flat. Looks like the bar came right through the top at one point. I agree on the rocking, and a 660 should chew that log up with ease.
I didn't pick that up but when I went back and had a look I also spotted a couple of other things
The mill rails are not sitting flat on top of the log.
In the video the gap opens and closes with the rocking of the saw.
The bar also looks like it's not parallel to the mill rails.
This means the bar clamp pads are not sitting flat/square on the bar and may then slip.
It is possible to run the mill with and angled bar (e.g. making splayed weather boards) but it's better for the mill and bar if the bar clamp pads havethe appropriate angles cut/ground into them
I realise this is a demo but for all the newbies out there, this kind of operation will significantly stress the mill, bar and chain.
Derf
Addicted to ArboristSite
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