Homelite 360 professional

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My dad's 350 is what hooked me on this chainsaw hobby (or problem depending upon who ya ask :redface:). Very well made saws. Boot replacement is nothing... heck, its even shown how to do it in the owner's manual, so its expected to be able to be performed by an owner. Need to find a 35SL one of these days to round out the variants on these.

Dan
 
Nice ole saws. Got this one for $40.00, needed a boot and a carb kit.

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First 360 I've owned, no more snort than an XL-12.

:rock:
 
Hey JOe, how would you compare it to a 3400 or 3700? Looked at a 360 and wondered if there was a diff. in perf.
Bob

Hey Bob, I think they are a good saw. As compared to the 3400/3700....Its stronger than the 3400 I think, Mine has very high compression, north of 165lbs. Is is not at strong as my 3.7 or 3700. It is a little tougher to work on than the Poulans, but thats not really a fair comparison as the that series of Poulans is the easiest of ANY saw to work on. That being said it is a solid well built saw that fits nice in my collection:rock: If your looking for one let me know. Might be able to set you up.
 
If anyone is really anyone is really wanting one the local scrap yard had one that I can pick up for cost of scrap. Probably 5-10 bucks plus shipping. Decent shape looked all there and had compression, of course was very dirty.
 
Hey Bob, I think they are a good saw. As compared to the 3400/3700....Its stronger than the 3400 I think, Mine has very high compression, north of 165lbs. Is is not at strong as my 3.7 or 3700. It is a little tougher to work on than the Poulans, but thats not really a fair comparison as the that series of Poulans is the easiest of ANY saw to work on. That being said it is a solid well built saw that fits nice in my collection:rock: If your looking for one let me know. Might be able to set you up.

Just what I wanted to hear Joe. Probably should let my CAD rest as there is no need for a saw that's similar to the 3400/3700. Heaven knows I've got several of those.
bob
 
I recognize a lot of things in that picture :rock:.

They're a good saw. Hated to let that one leave, but they're on CL pretty much perpetually. I'll get another someday.

BTW, how's the 1020 treating you?

That 360 I got from you runs well. I have not run the 1020. I have all pattern 14 bars.

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I didn't realize it takes a pattern 16 bar

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i liked it to till it quits running. i got one runs good for 15 then quits. i replaced everything i know. feul lines,oil line,new boot, new gas cap duckbill. rebuilt bard (twice) evan spent money on neww coil same thing. need to sell it. if interested you can get it. tired of spending money.
 
That 360 I got from you runs well. I have not run the 1020. I have all pattern 14 bars.


I didn't realize it takes a pattern 16 bar

Gotcha. I never noticed as everytime I ran it, I used a General Universal Homie/Mac/etc. bar. The tail looks like swiss cheese :msp_biggrin:.
 
Just picked one up on CL for $30. Said it fires on spray. But I think I'm missing a few parts. No recoil spring on the pull start. And no boot between carb and cylinder. Anyone got some parts laying around? How was that one u saw in the scrap yard? Good for parts? And how are you guys checking spark with that weird cap?
 
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Had 2 of these, cylinder problems on both due to bad boots although I ran them to death. Can these be had anywhere? Might try to get them running if I could find them. Had a lot of problem with bad ignition modules on mine and also had to helicoil the plug holes
 
That 360 I got from you runs well. I have not run the 1020. I have all pattern 14 bars.

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I didn't realize it takes a pattern 16 bar

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Randy do NOT use the D096/D196/UXL (Acres pattern #14) bars on your 1020. Tail profile is very different (wider, oiler holes are spaced much farther apart). The "Acres pattern 16" (Oregon F014, etc) bars are what you need to run on the large frame Homelites. Same with your Zip (also takes the F014 bars). Using a D096/etc bar on the large frame Homelites can damage the bar plates, clutch cover, and bar mount pad on the drivecase. They also won't oil very well.
 
That was my first new saw when I retired from the AF. Great running saw until one day...
Cutting up a locust IIRC when itstarted to rattle. Shut down. Pull test didn't show a problem. Fired back up and more rattle. Tear down showed it had eaten the elctrode off the spark plug, the piece was welded to the top of the piston. It had beaten down the top ring. Didn't score the bore though. Put in a new piston (IIRC it was piston/rod combo). Would fire right up but only run long engough to gt a cut started and die. 3 trips to the only real saw shop in the area (60 mile round trip) and they didnt' cure it. Figured out later that although they said they teted it, they had never laid it into a cut. Traded them for a Poulan Pro that I hated.

That was the last of the real saws that Homelite built, them, Poulan and macs all went thebig box route about the same time.

Harry K
 
Geesh. How come I post these saw in my area and can't get a bite on them.

well its probably a local thing
poulans were hot here in that era
but this is the first 360 ive ever seen around here

mike

Must be a regional thing. In my CL area, 350/360's are always listed for big money. They don't get relisted, so they must be selling at those prices. Same with McCinderblocks (PM600 series Macs). I've ran 350/360 Homelites as a buddy of mine has a few. Good saws, but not really better than the red, yellow, and green 60cc class saws that I already own and run. I just can't justify owning/supporting yet another saw model in that class................especially at the prices that the local CL sellers list them for. One may find it's way into my 'collection'..........but only if it gets here cheaply. I've noticed that "The Professional" always makes it's way into the ad descriptions........as if that's really a big deal.:msp_rolleyes:
 
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